Totally Dead '97 (Help)

[Dodge-Tech]

Make sure the maxi-fuse in the underhood PDC for the alternator is good. Did you just change your oil right before this happened? Many a oil filter wrench have hit the positive post on the alternator and blew the alternator fuse in the PDC.

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98. 5 Intense Blue, 24 valve clubcab custom 4" dual exhaust w/5" tips, Autometer pyro & boost gauges, K&N filter, 4. 5" Skyjacker lift kit, 36"x14. 50. 50"x16. 5" Mickey Thompson baja belteds,Bored out banjo bolts, PE-EZ, DD Stage II injectors, no turbo silencer ring, Mopar Performance Trans Pan.

 

[Extreme1]

Shorting the wrench would kill the charge but would it cause the battery drain?

My thought: grid heaters are on. This would cause low power more than just the alternator load.

Which reminds me: did you just by this truck? There were some posts on here about a year ago (maybe not quite that long) about a similar situation that turned out to be stuck grid heaters.

Sounds like either this is tricky or the tech isn't.

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'94 3500 4x4, 210,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro Gauges & Amsoil Air, Oil & Bypass Filters & Lubes, AWOL intake boot.
Punchlist: 14 cm Turbo Housing & 215 Injectors.
NRA member.
Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"I am my own performance station"

 

[Skydiver]

I had almost the same problems 2 times last winter. Gen light would come on sometimes. Then the volt meter would only read 10 to 12 E. Stop and restart the engine and everything would clear up. It never did kill the batteries. I think it was the grid heater staying on. Dodge boys said"we don't know nuttin 'bout dem dezil wires". Please let us know what you find cause my truck still has 2 months left on ext. warranty.
Thanks Tim

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1996 3500 87K. auto,3. 54,Ext. cab.
K&N air
Truck looks just like the truck on left side of page 6 issue 31.
1981 Mercedes 300D Non-turbo 174K miles
1987 blue phord 2810 tractor 456 hours.
1986 blue totayota 135K 1 owner
Bought new 1979 shevrolay 5. 7 litter diesel got 19000 miles,it died.
Bought new 1985 geeimsee S-15 gypsie Total lemon.

 

[Tom Trujillo]

Will do! I wont know for sure until early next week as parts are on order, however, the dealer tells me that the heat grid did not shut off and fried my relays. My alternator is also shot, mostlikely due to the same issue. SOOOOOOOO!

We are looking at about $800 once all is said and done. There goes my nerf bars and cap for this summer.

I would suggest that you get the dealer to look at it now for exactly this issue and the gen light so that there is at least a record of it under warranty.

Tom

 

[Extreme1]

Don't replace the alternator until the grid heater relays are replaced!!!!!

The PCM won't let the alternator charge until the heaters disengage.

STOP THE MADNESS!!!

Sorry, feel better now.

I might be wrong (though I was once but was mistaken), but those alternators are EXPENSIVE and Dodge technicians are (usually) INEXPERIENCED with Diesels.

 

[Hootguy]

One thing will drain 2 1000 amp batteries in a few minutes,,,those grid heaters will suck them down in no time flat,,,,change the relays,,or at least check them. .

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blacked out,96 3500,black,ext cab,KMC Slam,chrome aluminum wheels,continuous wheel balancers,Diesel Dynamics fuel plate and AFC kit,16cm housing,Bill Kondolay DTT torque converter and valve body,K&N filter,Mag-Hy-tek transmission and diff covers,Isspro triple pillar gauges,60 gallon transfer tank,Rld topper,

 

[Dennis Garrett]

Kinda like the time the glow plug relay stuck on in the old 84 Chevy. The little orange light was cycling, then stuck "on". Burned out all 8 glow plugs, at about $9 ea, plus $15. 00 for the new relay! Anyway, if you think you have a constant drain on the battries, shut the truck off, turn every thing off, and take one of the positive cables off the term. In a darkened garage, or at night, scratch it against the positive post. If you see it arc no matter how slight, you have a problem.

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Locomotive Engineer/Red Ram Driver! 97, 2500, Auto,3:54, 2WD, Re-sale Red, Loaded w/Leather, Diamond Tread running boards & box, Bumper guards, "Bull Ring" tie-downs, Front bumper guards, Clearance lights, TST 230 HP kit (slid forward 1/16"), Missing silencer ring, K&N, Combo exhaust temp & boost gauge, Eng. & Trans. oil temp gauges, 3 Pos. Lock up switch.

[This message has been edited by Dennis Garrett (edited 05-05-2001). ]

 

[illflem]

Dennis, have to disagree about the arcing trick on our Dodges. Whenever I've disconnected my batteries there has been a small arc while reconnecting, there are things that must run all the time. It does it on both my trucks. Haven't had the batteries go dead even after two weeks of sitting so the drain must be low.

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'95 2500 4X4, AT, Driftwood, Banks Stinger, Warn fender flairs and running boards (work truck)
'95 3500, 5 speed, 3:54, BD E-brake, Driftwood, Banks & Psycotty, 34,000 GCW apple and tractor hauler (works harder truck)

 

[Tom Trujillo]

I admit I am no mechanic and my truck is a toy, but after reading all these posts within this thread I have to wonder about the following:

1. Stuck heater grids happen pretty often.
2. There are no "safety's" in the truck to prevent literally a meltdown of the system. In my case the wiring melted not to mention the fried relays and alternator.
3. If one and two above are true, there has to be the distinct possibility of fire or that a fire has already occured.

Has anyone had or heard of a fire due to this cause? Can you tell that the more I think this through the more concerned and ****** off I am? I mean, whats to keep a heater grid from sticking on again a month down the road and causing another grand in damage or worse yet a fire? Certainly nothing that DC has done in the form of a safety switch or breaker.

Tom

 

[fest3er]

Originally posted by Skydiver:
... Please let us know what you find cause my truck still has 2 months left on ext. warranty.
Thanks Tim

My '98 had flickering lights for the longest time (headlights and dash lights were most noticeable, especially on rough roads. ) Finally I experienced the usual meltdown (including the manifold-to-AFC line, resulting in same-day 0-60 acceleration!)

Turns out one of the heater relays had finally failed in the ON position. Dealer gave me the old relays; I disassembled the failed one. Boy, are they CHEAP. Lousy springs and poor contacts.

A decent test would be to remove the relay assembly and give it a good shaking (similar to what the relays would undergo whilst bouncing on the truck). If you can hear/feel one or both contacts bouncing, the relays are close to failing; in this case, it would behoove you to replace them.

If you are electrically inclined, replace them with a more husky set.

Fest3er

 

[Tom Trujillo]

Well, the end of the story is a fat bill for $480 bucks. This includes the alternator, relays and labor.

Now I get to take it back because there still is no power. No turbo noticably kicking in. The truck feels flat.

 

[Tom Trujillo]

Well, the truck is finally fixed. The lack of response turned out to be a melted Injection boost line (plastic) that undooubted melted due to the heat generated by the heat grid. Ted Jannetty actually found it when I stopped by the store to pick up a fuel filter relocation kit and I told him my tale of woe. If found it in 10 seconds. The dealer was a little embarassed when I stopped by and showed them the problem.

I hope things smooth out a little going forward. Its been a tough and expensive couple weeks.

Tom

 

[B. Gill]

Tom,i was reading your post above and i got an idea if stuck heater grid is a problem,what you can do it put an idiot lite that will lite up when grid is on and will be off as soon as it goes of and u\you can connect it to the "+" terminal on the heater grid and light at the location of your choice in the cab.
let me know what do you think
bob

 

[Tom Trujillo]

Originally posted by B. Gill:
Tom,i was reading your post above and i got an idea if stuck heater grid is a problem,what you can do it put an idiot lite that will lite up when grid is on and will be off as soon as it goes of and u\you can connect it to the "+" terminal on the heater grid and light at the location of your choice in the cab.
let me know what do you think
bob

Actually I like that idea. I have been hoping for some feedback on possible preventative measures so that this does not occur again or at least kills it electrically if it sticks again. I am not much of an electrician so I will have to think about it a bit but let me see what I can do. Thanks