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Tow/Haul Overdrive Lockout

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Thanks to everyone for setting me straight on the reflash. I definitely will not do it. BTW, how expensive is the BD overdrive controller ?
 
I know this site is all about selling modifications,some don't want or need to spend money to be happy with their trucks.



I disagree with that statement... this site is awsome and gives you insite to lots of options and results... ... not only to factory stuff but also aftermarket... no one is saying that you must buy what anyone tells you about... it is just good general info, that may keep a person from spending way too much money and not get the result that they are looking for... ... . Im sorry you feel that TDR is trying to sell you certain parts from certain vendors... . Im sure that is not there intention... ... . :)



More misquoting... ... ... ... . I never said TDR is trying to sell me anything:-laf

If you were to follow my post I only offer up info and alternatives along with honest insider info wich seems to offend some peoples agendas
 
I know this site is all about selling modifications,some don't want or need to spend money to be happy with their trucks.



I disagree with that statement... this site is awsome and gives you insite to lots of options and results... ... not only to factory stuff but also aftermarket... no one is saying that you must buy what anyone tells you about... it is just good general info, that may keep a person from spending way too much money and not get the result that they are looking for... ... . Im sorry you feel that TDR is trying to sell you certain parts from certain vendors... . Im sure that is not there intention... ... . :)



Plus-1.



No plans on ever buying another new one (even if I had a money tree) I just want to keep it running longer and better then new, if that requires NON-OEM manufactured parts,(which for the most part seem true) I'm all for it. TDR's site and their "non-polluted with ads" seasonal magazine is the best source I have found to do just that.



Thank's TDR and to those who are in "the know". . ;)
 
Thanks to everyone for setting me straight on the reflash. I definitely will not do it. BTW, how expensive is the BD overdrive controller ?





Here you go BD Diesel Performance US - Automatic Transmissions & Converters, Transmission, Convertor & Exhaust Brake Contro, LockOut. Do some shopping around and see if a one of the Diesel Outlets might have a better price on it. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't.



The reflash does what it says, but, it has its drawbacks with volatility and functionality. If you modded the trans, didn't EVER use a downloader, and didn't tow it has its uses. The cost of the BD box, relatively easy install, and functionality makes it much more attractive for most people.



I have had 2 people ping me asking how to get it back after they paid the dealer $100 to activate it then they reloaded the Smarty. The only answer is take it back to the dealer and don't load Smarty. Needless to say they were NOT happy with the answers.



My ONLY "agenda" is making sure the pros and cons are well known and expectations are met. That seems to annoy some to no end but thats all right too. At least the readers get the FULL story not a one sentence biased opinion that leaves out the critical points. Good luck with the controller, I am very sure you will like the results. :)
 
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Ok. as long as I've got your attention, is it advisable to drive in 3rd gear vs overdrive when towing my 39' 5er ? In 4th gear I'm at 65 mph @ about 2000 rpm. I'm told the sweet spot is 1900-2100 for fuel economy. If I use 3rd gear instead it will increase rpm at the same speed, right ? I have a PacBrake and ATS Co-Pilot which I turn off when climbing a nasty hill otherwise the transmission won't downshift. Maybe I should downshift to 3rd at the base of the hill. What's your suggestion ? Thanks again.
 
If you have the power to roll the hill in OD at 1900-2000 then it is perfectly fine to do so. The key will be if the truck will pull the weight and the grade without loosing too much speed. I would run until it drops speed to far then downshift it and bring the speed back up. Yes, when you go from OD to drive your rpms are going to jump up there and it won't hurt things a bit to run at 65 mph in drive for a shor ttime or even a long time. What will suffer is your wallet for the extra fuel it takes to do it.



That said, there are a couple of other things to keep in mind. Need some answers though:



What is your gross weight? What gears dose the truck have?



Are you running any power adders?



Have modified the transmission?



How steep a grade are you talking about shifting on?
 
if I am towing heavy I pretty much just leave it locked in 3rd. the pyro just gets too high too quick with the low rpm. If I stay in 3rd truck just charges along and seems pretty happy. I have 3. 73 gears and 285/75 tires, just about 34" along with some engine mods. At 65mph I am spinning I think about 2,200rpm. If I am towing heavy I dont need to go any faster. If I tow light to medium just shift gears when needed with the controller.
 
Thanks again for the replies. In answer to "cerbersiams" questions as to my specs:
24,000 # GCWR, 4. 10 ratio, engine bone stock, no power adders, stock transmission except for ATS CO-PILOT converter lockup, grades are what you would encounter in West Virginia & Colorado. When I'm climbing steep hills I turn off the Pacbrake & CO-PILOT otherwise transmission will not downshift as converter stays in lockup. How can I leave the transmission in 3rd gear when the shift selector only has PRND21 positions ?

2005 3500 DRW 4x4, SLT Quad Cab, 4. 10, 48RE, Firestone H/T Transforce LT235/80R17, Pacbrake, ATS CO-PILOT, ISSPRO Gauges
 
D on the dash is 3rd gear, keeping it there with the 05's was a challenge without the OD lockout. You had to keep cycling the TH button and working the throttle. Pain but it worked to a degree.



I ran it until the rpms dropped out of a usable range then downshifted using the TH button. Now, when it decides to downshift I jsut lockout OD and keep going at whatever rpm is sufficient to maintain speed.



I can definitely see 24k on 5 miles 8% grade is going to be problematic but the rets of the time it is just a judgement call on on how you want to drive.
 
In simple terms it increases line pressure, holds each gear range to a higher rpm/road speed before shifting, and will downshift sooner when slowing.
 
^^ I'd ask for a description of how that is accomplished but the answer would be nothing but more clutter and mis-information. :-laf

TH on and 04. 5 is OD lockout, nothing more.
 
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