2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission tow rating 2500 vs 3500

[Cumminpwr11]

I have a 2k 2500 4x4. I was wondering what the maximum weight I can pull.



Any one know the max is on a 3500?



Can I convert up to that?



What is involoved?





The reason that I am asking is that I am gonna purchase a 35' weekend warrior, and fully loaded with water and two quads and a rail, the sales person said that that is like 16K lb. Will my truck handle that?



don't really want to sell to upgrade cause I am 4 months to paying off. then that money is bombing money Oo.



Thank you in advance for your responses.



Chris

 

[Sticks]

I think the rule is 21k# (or 20k#) minus what ever your truck weighs is what you can tow. In your case I would start worrying about pin weight cause it sounds like you will be over.



Try posting this in the tow/haul area.

 

[RustyJC]

GCWR - truck laden curb weight = maximum total weight of loaded trailer (use trailer's GVWR if actual loaded trailer weight isn't available)



GVWR - truck laden curb weight = maximum pin weight of loaded trailer (use 20% of trailer's total weight if actual pin weight isn't available, or 20% of trailer's GVWR if actual total weight isn't available)



Even though a given 2500 and 3500 might have the same GCWR, the 3500 will always have a higher GVWR. When towing a 5th wheel, the 2500 will run out of GVWR long before it runs out of GCWR - that's why the 3500 can handle a larger 5th wheel without exceeding its ratings.



For example, we tow a 13,500 lb 36' triple slide 5th wheel with our 3500. We hit the road at 10,380 lbs GVW (10,500 lbs GVWR) and 21,180 lbs GCW (21,500 lbs GCWR). You can immediately see the problem in trying to pull our trailer with a 2500's 8800 lbs GVWR!



Edit: The highest GCWR available on a 2nd generation truck was 21,500 lbs, which required a 3500 with ETH/DEE and 4. 10's. If you don't have that package, you won't have a GCWR higher than 20,000 lbs, and most are lower.



Rusty

 

[Cumminpwr11]

Is it possible to convert my truck to a 3500?



Regearing is not a problem, redoing springs is not a problem.





Just trying to get more out of my truck w/o with having to buy a new one.



Thanks



Chris

 

[Sticks]

Presuming your truck is mostly stock, and you don't have a great deal of money tied up in BOMBs, it may be worth your while to look for a same model year 3500 with the HO/6spd, or even up a couple of years.



Maybe post an ad "For sale or trade" on your truck.



Converting yours is doable, but you will have killed the value, and who knows how the insurance co. will react.



Me, I would sell the 2500 outright and go buy a 3500.



Find a set of 3500 axles (4x4) or rear axle and front hubs & Springs, and contact a retailer for flatbeds to see if they have a 3500 bed for your truck floating around, then re-paint to match color. You will also need a 3500 drive line (I think the 2500 and 3500 drive shafts were different) & 7 wheels.



Keep an eye on the insurance auctions for totaled trucks for a donor 3500.



Or call JC Whitney for a simulator kit.



Or buy a smaller trailer.





Sticks

 

[Snow man]

for 16K trailer neither the 2500 or 3500 is enough,IMO. Even if you get a used 2nd gen 3500Ho with 4. 10s and 6 speed,you'll still be overweight. if you dont care no problem,but it is a tad heavy for a 3500.

 

[DPelletier]

At 16,000 lbs you will be over both GCWR and GVWR on even a 3500 DRW w. 4:10's. A third gen truck like mine has higher ratings, but even then only a dually w. 4:10's is rated high enough. (23,000 GCWR vs. 21,000 for the 3. 73's). If I were you and I wasn't concerned about staying in the ratings, I would sell your 2500 and buy a 3500 dually, preferrably an ETH, DEE with 4:10's and an exhaust brake. You could convert your truck (doesn't change the ratings, though), but it would cost more than just buying the right one. You need a dually. Or a much smaller trailer.





Dave

 

[y-knot]

I agree I think 16,000lbs of trailer is one heck of a load. I pull 12,500-13,000 and you know it is back there. You failed to mention what rear gear you have, but it really doesn't matter since you were willing to re-gear. I to believe your best move would be to sell the current truck and invest in a 3500 with 4:10 gears. Or move on up to a Sport Hauler, they are really the better choice for the load you have.

Also there are many differences between your 2500 and a DRW3500. You may or may not have a D70 it depends on how your truck is set up. But even if it had a D80, it still is not the same D80 that would be in a DRW 3500. Both load and torque ratings would be much lower.

 

[Cumminpwr11]

Thanks for all of your responses. Unfortunatly, not what I wanted to hear, cause its almost paid for, and I put a heck of a lot of miles on this beast since I bought it.



2000 with 175K miles



Trade in will be quite low, and then finding another one the way I want will be he%%.



Oh Well



Maybe dodge will come up with a 4500 or 5500 SOON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Maybe i will get a smaller trailer.



chris



ps what would happen long term if i pulled it anyway... . possible fines and all that jazz.

 

[Sticks]

Worst case scenerio.....



DEATH







Likely scenerio - Broken axle, driveline, frequent replacement of brake components, truck starts falling apart, suspension goes to he!!, premature grey hair, unable to relax on your road trips...

 

[ndurbin]

I wouldn't be afraid to pull that trailer with my truck. I'd defintely get an exhaust brake if I did it often. But when I'm overweight (and I've been there a few times) you just have to slow down and remember whats back there and account for it. Sure there are alot of crazy people out there that you can't control. But in most of my expreinces I've seen these trucks handle ALOT more than they were designed for.



If your only going to use it a few times a year (6 or less). IMO you'll be fine. But if your going to go alot get the 3500.



p. s. I'll go ahead and put my flame suit on now because I'm bound to get some.

 

[jbone]

I agree with most of these guys--and as you can see, I pull about 12,000 with mine---would sure look for 3500 w/4. 10's and 6-speed... ... . wouldn't worry about mileage unless it was above 200K... ... ... ... ... . my 2 cents... ... ... ... ... ... . R, J. B.

 

[Cumminpwr11]

thanks for all the help

thanks for all the help yall. the actual trailer weight is 11,680 dry. then you add 120 gal of water, and 7 quads at 400lb apeicel

I am at 15850lb.



the funny thing is that I see them at glamis and dumont (sand dune areas for all those out of cal) all the time. I figured that my truck would do the same.



looks like 3500 is in my future



and a new payment :{

 

[y-knot]

It adds up pretty fast, and I am always wrong when I try and estimate a weight. I don't doubt for a minuet that you see alot of trucks at the dunes pulling very heavy weights. I don't get to go to Cally, but we do visit Silver Lake in Michigan. We usually on take the quads, and the three of them and a stocked trailer goes 12,500-13,000lbs. But when we take the pre-runner, and quads it pushes us up to around 17,000lbs, and that is a load. I would hate to get into soft sand with the rig loaded, Doesn't sound fun.

 

[SOOT]

The 2500 is to small. I have had around 20,000 lbs behind my 3500 several times and it handled it fine.

 

[Wiredawg]

Been there, done that!

Cumminpwr11:



Been there, done that. I bought the hoss before I bought the trailer and even then, the RV sales weenies had me rolling out w/ a 5th wheel that weighs over 17K fully loaded. Just like Rusty said, I was way over GVWR on my 00 2500 4X4 LB QC. I had added air bags, but also was over on my tire ratings. I finally decided to swap for a 3500. Yea, I'm exceeding GCVW, but cna't do a Freightliner and won't do an F-450.



BTW, when I was stripping my 2500 to trade for my 3500, I found two (one each side) of the airbag bracket mounting bolts had sheared. Can you say train wreck?



Buy a 3500 or go way smaller on the 5th wheel.



Wiredawg

 

[Cumminpwr11]

thanks, as usual I am always glad that I checked here first instead of listening to the pin-head sales person. Over the long run it will probably save me a fortune (especially if i wreck do to overloading) hell its only money.



Thanks for all the help

Chris

 

[KB0OU]

Heavy Towing

The best insurance you can buy is a truck that can handle the load. Maybe the Cummins can take it but what about brakes and transmission? Not to mention just about every other component on the truck!!

 

[gcarthel]

If your careful how you drive you can tow massive loads... My loaded weight is over 40,000# (yes forty thousand) Truck 7200# trailer8000# 22 round bales @1200#. Skid steer and ten foot custom trailer towed behind gooseneck trailer 6100# =47,700# I am only legal with DOT because I live in texas and am a farmer hauling my own hay. Here is a pic of my rig loaded with small square bales. Gross weight of 38,500# http://www.carthelfarms.com

 

[rweis]

Would be cheaper to get a smaller trailer and find someone to tow a second trailer for you. Split the load. Pay the second tower milage and ? You tow the quads, he tows the 5er with his 3500.



An idea,



Bob Weis