tow with or w/o bars

[fr8train]

Towing 6200lb. TT w/600 lb. ball wt. Set equalizer bars light & still spin tires on start out. Reese hitch also has friction sway control. Thinking of trying to leave off bars & still use sway control. Has anyone done this themselves? Trl. is 28ft Shasta.

2wd. trk. has enough wt. on front end already, IMHO. Need the wt on rear tires. Any idea how bad trk. will rock doing this? SAFETY? Does a 2500 need w/d with this trl. wt. ?

 

[Mad Bomber]

Bars

Do you have a adjustable hitch? Is it set to the right height? I also have a 2wd have had no problems.

 

[fr8train]

Hitch has adj. head. 2 large bolts. Have changed tow vehicles since I bought trl. With bars on, trl. & trk. sit level. If I don't use the bars, I'll have to raise ball. When we bought trl. new, they also sold us the new Reese equ. hitch. However, there was no literature in our paper packet W/trl. to adj. hitch. Didn't even give it a thought about changing tow vehicles some day. I did have to change adj. w/this trk. I don't know if I have it adj. correctly. I can try changing it around.

 

[Mad Bomber]

Bars

The reason I said that was I also changed from my wifes van to the CTD and DID change the setting.

 

[tgrfan2]

tongue wgt

With all those mods you need a bigger trailer! Seriously though I have pulled much heavier TT's without the equalizer. My 95 hauled a 9k TT better with air bags than the equalizer. I still used the sway control. The weight you have is only about 10% of total weight so you are pretty light on the hitch. If you raise the tongue much you might shift more weight off the tongue and that would be bad. I would try it without the equalizer, but with sway control.

 

[y-knot]

First off make double sure the adjustable mount is at the correct height, that is important. Next, and this is the one people forget. The ball mount (the adjustable mount) needs to be squared up, usually you loosen the two bolts that hold the mount together. Then most have a pin with some washers, or a bolt that adjust, but get the head so it is 90 degrees to the road. Probably 80% of people forget this step, it is important. Now that the head is at the right height, and level, you are ready to attach the equalizer bars. There is really no excuse not to run these bars if you have them (if you do not, you should get them), they not only load the front axle, but help in trailer control. If you want alittle more weight on the rear end, don't make the chains so tight, but they can not be swinging loose. The friction sway control is great, I usually tighten it down till snug, then back off 1/2 turn (I leave the handle pointing to the trailer). Never grease or oil the sway control, if it gets real rusty, use a wire brush, and or some sand paper. This type system, properly adjusted is a great way to go, if the are pulling a tag (bumper mount) trailer. I would not recommend leaving off any part (equalizer bars, sway control) of this system. Tag trailers are the most "unstable" of all trailers, this system helps to reduce that level of instability, which is even more evident on trailers over 28 feet in length. Also remember the rule for hitch weight is 10% of trailer weight. In this area more then 10% is better then less, and really not an issue with our trucks, I would go up to 15%. Just make sure the hitch (the one on your truck) is up to the load. The factory hitch is not much force, so if your tongue weight is up there, then you might want to go to a class V hitch. We sell trailers, and when set-up right, a good load distributing hitch can really save your bacon. It's not that hard to get in trouble, the force of a simi passing you, or the death wiggle going down a hill, especially the longer (28'-35') units.

 

[drives mopars]

egt's

ya but the egt's are bad when towing



i cant go faster muct times over stock

i run bars will add frickin and run 7500 lbs and 1000 on toung



its a 24' toy box its heavy but tows great