Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
HI Guys,
I am getting ready to pick up a piece of equipment to work on my property...The machine weighs about 12K and the trailer I will be using weighs 5K per the mfg tag....total towed weight should be about 17K max but may be a little less since I don't know the actual weight of the machine (I have heard numbers from 10K to 12K so I figured I would error on the high side),
My truck is a 1997 Dodge dually, 5.9, 4x4, extended cab, 5 sp, 4.10 in the rear.
As far as truck mods I really have not done anything to the truck other than standard maintenance BUT I believe the pump may have been messed with by the previous owner (lost his number awhile back so unable to ask questions).
Anyways, the reason I think the pump has been messed with is because the truck will pull hard to 2900 RPM (no defueling at all)....I really didn't want to do more rpms since I don't know if the valve springs need to be upgraded to 60 lb (I don't want to risk floating the valves).
So my questions are as follows:
1) How would I know if I have upgraded 60 lb springs? (if they are that would be great since I would like to at some time get an exhaust brake and it would be nice not to have to change out springs).
2) I don't have gauges ( I know I should get at least a pyro and in fact I may be able to do it before I tow this machine BUT I then again I may not)....would it be fair to say if I drive in 4th about 50 MPH I should have no problems EGT wise? How steep a hill (grade wise ) can I pull at about 50 MPH before EGT becomes an issue (On the flip side many hills don't post a grade so approximately how far (percentage wise....example 50%, 60% etc..) can I push the accelerator before
having to worry about EGTs?
3) I do have an extra boost gauge sitting in my garage that I could plumb in.....Can I estimate EGT based upon Boost numbers?.....Like "X" lbs boost equals "Y" degrees on the EGT....I assume my turbo is stock but don't know for sure (How could I check?....What is factory?....There are decals on the truck from Banks so maybe the previous owner upgraded turbos).
4) My tires were getting low in the front and it was brought to my attention by the tire shop that the tires were too big (my truck has 235 85 R 16) on them originally....I was told that I should go with 215 85 R 16 which is the "proper" sized tires for my truck (NOTE : 4 wheels on my truck are aftermarket aluminum so not 100% sure what offset / width...again previous owner.....The inner duals are steel) .
I did go with the recommended narrower tires (on the front) and I reasoned that when the rears wear more I will replace them with the narrower tires as well because the duals looked VERY close together....I figured the narrower tires would give me more clearance (I am worried if I run alot of weight the sidewalls may touch....they have not touched yet so far as I can tell tho....I almost really hated to do that because all my other trucks run 235's and a slightly bigger tire may cut a few RPMs driving although the difference is probably pretty small ).
On the road I can see the 215s being a [potential liability because they are harder to come by (Sams Club had to order them) and other tire shops locally were in the same situation.
What do you think about the 215 VS 235 dilemma?
5) How heavy can I tow before I have to worry about trans temps and rear end temps?....I know hills matter but just in general is there a rough number?....I do run synthetic in the trans and transfer case.....I haven't changed the rear end oil since I got the truck but should I before I tow this....I am thinking maybe use an 85-140 synthetic?....Also, since I don't spin tires how would I know If I have a limited slip rear so I can choose the proper oil....
6) For a Hitch I ordered the beefiest one from Curt (17K rated to replace the 10K hitch on the truck)....along with the beefiest receiver plate (adjustable) and a 15 ton Pintle hook (which I have that will bolt to the plate)....Is it OK to reuse the mounting bolts from my old Pintle to mount on the new receiver (they look like new)...If not, should I use grade 5 or grade 8 (I have heard two conflicting views....some say go for the high strength 8s but some of my friends say go for because the 8s even tho stronger are also more brittle and can snap).
7) FWIW I did have a filter kit put on the transmission along with the special retainer (from fifthgearrepair.com) and updated locknut for 5th gear....I probably would not tow in 5th just because I hear 5th gear is weak (plus no gauges so I want to minimize load on the engine)....If I had gauges would you tow this weight in 5th running say 50-55 MPH? or just stick to 45-49 MPH in fourth (I did that awhile when my 5th gear nut fell off)
8) I typically tow a max of about 6K on a regular basis so this is quite a bit heavier than normal which is why I am asking questions and for opinions....(FWIW - I would like to stick to things concerning my truck / trailer / hitches etc... and not things like CDL / DOT / Insurance since I had a separate thread for that).
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Andrew
I am getting ready to pick up a piece of equipment to work on my property...The machine weighs about 12K and the trailer I will be using weighs 5K per the mfg tag....total towed weight should be about 17K max but may be a little less since I don't know the actual weight of the machine (I have heard numbers from 10K to 12K so I figured I would error on the high side),
My truck is a 1997 Dodge dually, 5.9, 4x4, extended cab, 5 sp, 4.10 in the rear.
As far as truck mods I really have not done anything to the truck other than standard maintenance BUT I believe the pump may have been messed with by the previous owner (lost his number awhile back so unable to ask questions).
Anyways, the reason I think the pump has been messed with is because the truck will pull hard to 2900 RPM (no defueling at all)....I really didn't want to do more rpms since I don't know if the valve springs need to be upgraded to 60 lb (I don't want to risk floating the valves).
So my questions are as follows:
1) How would I know if I have upgraded 60 lb springs? (if they are that would be great since I would like to at some time get an exhaust brake and it would be nice not to have to change out springs).
2) I don't have gauges ( I know I should get at least a pyro and in fact I may be able to do it before I tow this machine BUT I then again I may not)....would it be fair to say if I drive in 4th about 50 MPH I should have no problems EGT wise? How steep a hill (grade wise ) can I pull at about 50 MPH before EGT becomes an issue (On the flip side many hills don't post a grade so approximately how far (percentage wise....example 50%, 60% etc..) can I push the accelerator before
having to worry about EGTs?
3) I do have an extra boost gauge sitting in my garage that I could plumb in.....Can I estimate EGT based upon Boost numbers?.....Like "X" lbs boost equals "Y" degrees on the EGT....I assume my turbo is stock but don't know for sure (How could I check?....What is factory?....There are decals on the truck from Banks so maybe the previous owner upgraded turbos).
4) My tires were getting low in the front and it was brought to my attention by the tire shop that the tires were too big (my truck has 235 85 R 16) on them originally....I was told that I should go with 215 85 R 16 which is the "proper" sized tires for my truck (NOTE : 4 wheels on my truck are aftermarket aluminum so not 100% sure what offset / width...again previous owner.....The inner duals are steel) .
I did go with the recommended narrower tires (on the front) and I reasoned that when the rears wear more I will replace them with the narrower tires as well because the duals looked VERY close together....I figured the narrower tires would give me more clearance (I am worried if I run alot of weight the sidewalls may touch....they have not touched yet so far as I can tell tho....I almost really hated to do that because all my other trucks run 235's and a slightly bigger tire may cut a few RPMs driving although the difference is probably pretty small ).
On the road I can see the 215s being a [potential liability because they are harder to come by (Sams Club had to order them) and other tire shops locally were in the same situation.
What do you think about the 215 VS 235 dilemma?
5) How heavy can I tow before I have to worry about trans temps and rear end temps?....I know hills matter but just in general is there a rough number?....I do run synthetic in the trans and transfer case.....I haven't changed the rear end oil since I got the truck but should I before I tow this....I am thinking maybe use an 85-140 synthetic?....Also, since I don't spin tires how would I know If I have a limited slip rear so I can choose the proper oil....
6) For a Hitch I ordered the beefiest one from Curt (17K rated to replace the 10K hitch on the truck)....along with the beefiest receiver plate (adjustable) and a 15 ton Pintle hook (which I have that will bolt to the plate)....Is it OK to reuse the mounting bolts from my old Pintle to mount on the new receiver (they look like new)...If not, should I use grade 5 or grade 8 (I have heard two conflicting views....some say go for the high strength 8s but some of my friends say go for because the 8s even tho stronger are also more brittle and can snap).
7) FWIW I did have a filter kit put on the transmission along with the special retainer (from fifthgearrepair.com) and updated locknut for 5th gear....I probably would not tow in 5th just because I hear 5th gear is weak (plus no gauges so I want to minimize load on the engine)....If I had gauges would you tow this weight in 5th running say 50-55 MPH? or just stick to 45-49 MPH in fourth (I did that awhile when my 5th gear nut fell off)
8) I typically tow a max of about 6K on a regular basis so this is quite a bit heavier than normal which is why I am asking questions and for opinions....(FWIW - I would like to stick to things concerning my truck / trailer / hitches etc... and not things like CDL / DOT / Insurance since I had a separate thread for that).
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Andrew
