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Towing Max GCWR with stock auto & 3.54s?

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Air Brakes

2000 & 5th Wheel Purchase

Any body out there towing at or near 9500 lbs with a stock Auto and 3. 54s? I am upgrading 5th wheels to a larger unit and was concerned if I was overdoing the trans or need to modify to 4. 10s. Opinions?

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1999 FLAME RED 2500 SLT, QC, 4X4 AT, 3. 54 AGATE LEATHER
 
I tow well over the max (see sig. ) and haven't had any problem. I don't know what the travel weight of my trailer is but has a GVWR of 18,000. I have towed this rig from Houston to Jacksonville, Fl and back to Austin. That was when my truck was totally stock. It towed fine on I-10 but the hills slowed me down enough that I wanted more power (see sig. ) I haven't towed since my mods so can't comment on what the difference is.
Phil

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'99 D3500, auto. ,2WD,3. 54 LSD, all options, Banks Power Pack w/K&N filter, '99 40ft. Alfa Gold Triple-slide 5'er
 
I too tow above the gross that is printed in the manual, and yes I know that I am not supposed to. #ad


I pull on average about 1200 miles ever 5 weeks or so, a 37 foot Sea Breeze 5'er. I have not weighed my truck (Short Bed, Y2K, 4x4, QC, Auto, 3. 54) and trailer on the scales yet, I try to find a convenient spot next weekend. The sticker on the trailer states that the GVWR is 15,000, and empty or the UVW is 13,000.

I have not had any problems and tow quite comfortably at 72 mph on level road with the overdrive left on once I get above 58 mph or so. I do however feel the load though in the hills, and am considering some minor BOMBing. But with 48k miles on an almost totally stock truck, I am very pleased with its performance and MPG.


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Y2K 2500, Auto, 4x4, QC, Short Box, Garnet Red, Westin Nerf Bars, K&N. Synthetic Lubes, Reese 15k Side-to-Side Piviot Hitch

1998 Sea Breeze 37 Ft Triple Slide 5th Wheel.
 
With my 97 stock auto and 3. 54's, just put 5000 miles pulling that kind of weight on a 30 foot 5'er. From flat land to east coast mountains or hills depending on what you are used too. No problems, just had to drop into 3rd in W. Va. and Penn. many times. Otherwise get up and go, never slow down. Still had good mileage of about 13 mpg
 
I have a '96, auto, 3. 54, stock all the way. Pull 5W, 9200#, Went to Alaska this summer, no problems. As you'd expect, flat and rolling hills are no sweat. The bigger the hills, the slower you may go and no doubt someone will pass you but not many. Personally, I don't mind going a little slower in the Mountains, I also have a temp gage on the Transmission, a very good learning experience on how to protect it in the mountains.
 
I tow just a bit over my maximum rating. I would suggest beefing up the trans with a valve body and TC before you have problems. A temp gauge at the very least will help.

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'98 12V 3500 Dually Std Cab, Auto, 3. 54, Banks Stinger Plus, Sun Coast TC. BD valve body, BD Pressureloc
 
I would get a transmission temp gauge as was mentioned. Also,DC recommends that synthetic gear oil be used in the rearend when towing at or near the GCVW.

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2001 HO 6spd,Quad cab,LWB,4x4,Flame Red,all options except for leather,Westin Brushguard/Push bar,Painless wiring,Radio Shack CB,my own design CB mount,Smittybuilt nerf bars,NW Custom rocker covers,Custom built stainless rocker light bars,DeeZee bedrails,Isspro pyro and boost gauges(more to come)
 
Search for "Scary braking experience". After all the comments and Emails I am going to add an exhaust brake before I attempt any more mountain trips. The exhaust brake will slow you down enough so you only need to use the service brakes and trailer brakes to actually come to a stop. Makes sense as a safety precaution.

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'98 12V 3500 Dually Std Cab, Auto, 3. 54, Banks Stinger Plus, Sun Coast TC. BD valve body, BD Pressureloc
 
Do you guys that pull in the mountains with an auto transmission have an exhaust brake, or do the truck and trailer brakes work OK?

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Cody Hale
01. 5 2500, QC, 4x4,Auto
Gig'em Aggies!
 
An exhaustbrake is a good investment. However I find no problem with the old rule of coming down the mountain at or below the same speed you went up. Setting the trailer brakes sensitivity up so just a slight touch of the brake pedal engages them.
That way you still have the trucks brakes to stop the vehicle if needed. And the trailer brakes are easier and cheaper to replace. However have not had to in last six years of 4 to 6 trips per summer over Colo passes. And they have not gotten hot.

I know that the autos are a different story. But if you don't get in to big of a hurry on the mountain,shoudn't have a problem.

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95 Dodge 2500 Luverne grill guard,headache rack,running boards and Amzoiled. Soon to be mildly bombed. 84 Dodge d-150, 318 Hooker headers,Edelbrok intake,mallory ignition,Carter Afb,Accel coil,and Custom dual exhaust. Boat,fifthwheel,motorcycles,and shop,job to support toys. Yuck...
 
The above sounds like a group who knows what they're doing! I tow over the Cascades most any time I want to get out of the Bend Bowl. I play with the A/T OD button and I bet you I don't have to touch the brakes a half dozen times going from 3000' to 6000' back to 3000'- and the times I do brake are just light taps - and I'm keeping up with traffic.
It's all in proper TT brake setup. I'd much rather have the trailer trying to stop the load than the trailer pushing the truck downhill.
You'll be suprised at how many clicks the TT brakes need after a 1000 miles of towing. I think an annual TT brake adjustment is an oft neglected item.

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99' Quad 4x4 A/T LB 3. 54 30K Miles.
26' Terry w/slide 7500GVWR
"KISS your truck and it will be forever faithful"
 
I pulled a 24x8 bumper hitch box trailer with a moving company all last summer, and was frequently towing 10K+. This was in a 92 D350 club cab auto with 3. 55s, totally stock, and never had any problems until I got in the mountains from Parker to Bailey. 90 degree day, and the temp guage got hot, so I backed out of it. Held 40-45 up a 7% grade ok in 3rd gear, pulling well over 10K. I went 75 and 80 up and down I 25 with no problems. Passed several Fords pulling lighter loads.
I now have a 4wd with 4. 10s and the only difference I noticed was less mpg and lower top end (80 vs 98). I am looking into a splitter or swapping for 3. 55 or 3. 07 gears.

Daniel

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Daniel's current truck: 1993 W350 club cab, 5 speed, treadplate aluminum flatbed, 4. 10 rear end, straight pipes, K&N, "slightly" tweaked pump. ISSPRO color coded pyrometer and 50psi boost guage. NRA Life Member (since age 12) and d@mned proud of it. IRBCTS.
 
I toed a 38ft gn with a forklift with 130
bricks without a Ebrake in the mountains!
BIG RED didn't notice. :rolleyes

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97 3500 SLT REDext cab duelly p/u 5sp 3:54 2wd 245/75R16
3" straight exhaust stock torque plate slid full foward star wheel tweeked
105,000 miles still with plenty of ZOOM... ZOOM... ZOOM

RON Z
 
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