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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Towing over recommended weight

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Exhaust Brake won’t make up for bad choices. I drove big truck without one for fifteen years. Famous downgrades. Common sense ain’t common.

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I generally avoid these threads, however, I will respond to your comment. I agree with the first part. I have driven the log woods without "Jakes" too.

But if you have a choice, pickup truck or big truck, exhaust brake or Jake, there is no choice. You pick the truck with engine retarding, every time.

You are always scornful of pickup trucks equipped with exhaust brakes. Maybe because you don't have one?

I have 4 Cummins powered pickup trucks, all equipped with exhaust brakes, I would not have it otherwise. I consider myself to have good common sense.
 
I used to have a Dodge/Cummins with an automatic. Totally stock it spun the center out of the flexplate while towing a 9000 pound 5th wheel. I traded it for the truck I have now and went through 12 NV4500s before I upgraded to the G56. I regularly tow over the recommended 20,000 GCWR, which I'm pretty sure is the same you have. The reason I'm focused on transmissions is because yours is woefully weak for what you are contemplating.

Empty weight means nothing to anyone except the transporter who delivered it to the dealer. I'm reasonably confident that your estimate of loaded pin weight is low. Toyhaulers are nose heavy to compensate for weight in the garage so unless your "bike" is a full dress Harley along with the required toolbox and spare parts you are looking at about 3000 pounds of pin weight.

All this means is you need, IMO, an upgraded transmission complete with a lockup switch for an exhaust brake and some significant suspension upgrades on the 2500. Once you do the math, it might cost less to buy a truck that was designed for that big a trailer.
I bought my truck used 3rd party who bought it at an auction down south. The truck 240K at the time of purchase and the truck was used to tow fifth wheel trailers as the mounting tabs for the fifth wheel was welded to the frame. I am assuming the transmission had to be rebuilt at least 1 time and I also installed a Rev Max towing valve body in the transmission along with a deep aluminum cast pan which adds over 1 more gallon of transmission fluid. I have towed bumper hitch 20' trailer with a gross weight of 15K with out any problems.
My only problem is I do not know how the original had the transmission rebuilt but I am assuming since he was towing a fifth wheel trailer he went above stock specs to avoid problems again, but then again I do not know. Already have money in the transmission so I'll go for broke. I just ordered the pac brake too. I don't care for the newer trucks anyway.
 
I generally avoid these threads, however, I will respond to your comment. I agree with the first part. I have driven the log woods without "Jakes" too.

But if you have a choice, pickup truck or big truck, exhaust brake or Jake, there is no choice. You pick the truck with engine retarding, every time.

You are always scornful of pickup trucks equipped with exhaust brakes. Maybe because you don't have one?

I have 4 Cummins powered pickup trucks, all equipped with exhaust brakes, I would not have it otherwise. I consider myself to have good common sense.
I order the Pac brake kit 2 days ago and I am not scornful of Jake brakes. Don't know where you got that from. I do not even have the fifth wheel trailer yet. Just getting ready for it. Its not like I am towing all the time either, just once or twice a year. I took the advice of the earlier posts.
 
I suggest you consider a smaller RV as you haven't purchased it yet. Specifically one your pickup is rated to handle. If you must have a giant RV than get a tow vehicle that's able to comfortably handle it. It makes for an enjoyable experience when your rig can handle it. If you insist on using your current pickup again consider a smaller/lighter RV that won't tear it up. Finding out the weak links on your "overloaded" pickup is expensive starting with the rear tires possibly overloaded. Transmission. Suspension, brakes, and a white knuckle experience when it's running between tearing things up.

After all the mods there is one thing YOU can't change and that's the door sticker and rated towing weight. An upfitter can change the door sticker but good luck on something this old. As mentioned above there are many lawyer ads for RV wrecks and being overweight is Gross Negligence. "That overloaded rig should not have even been on the road!" In Arizona insurance companies use the "Stupid Law" and walk away from coverage for overloaded TV situations. I had this exact conversation with my family attorney who advised me of cases he had seen insurance deny coverage for an overloaded tow vehicle. Don't trust the "It's ok internet": call your attorney who will keep you out of jail and/or bankruptcy. One case was a overloaded pickup and GN trailer ... How fun to owe money on both when they are totaled and be lucky there were no dead bodies.

Consider a job as a truck driver because an RV this big is pretty close to being one. IMO a big RV is more work than "fun vacation."
3 axles is 6 tires that are nothing but trouble. Parking it, getting it in and out of places, changing lanes are all harder with a longer RV.
Changed my mind about the heavier trailer and found 1 with a lighter empty weigh under 11K. Need to go inspect it first but I will take a lot off advice given here. Used to drive truck professionally and am aware of the idiots cutting in front of you and stealing your safety buffer between you and the next vehicle.
 
Changed my mind about the heavier trailer and found 1 with a lighter empty weigh under 11K.

Once again, the empty weight only matters to the transporter who brought it from the factory to the dealer. Unless you plan on putting nothing into it I suggest you look at the GVWR shown on it's data plate. That will be much closer to it's weight once you have added water, food, clothes, toys and everything else that RVers need.
 
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