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Towing What Do I Need
- Thread starter BlueJay
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Fifth wheel hitch for a start. (Sorry could pass that one up. )
If you have an auto. The next two paragraphs cover one of them. If you have a stick. Just forget the auto suggestions.
Does your truck have the towing pack? If it doesn't. Then I would look for a transmission cooler. One of the higher priced ones with a temp controlled fan would be my choice.
Transmission temp gauge and a larger transmission pan. (Overheating an auto is the fastest way to kill one).
Heavier shocks on the rear. (stock shock are a little weak for towing).
If the rear drops very much with the trailer on. I would think of a set of air bags to level the rig with. They cost more than overload springs. But you don't carry the rougher ride from the overloads when lightly loaded.
A boost gauge and exhaust temp gauge. You need to know what the engine is doing when you are towing.
Welcome to the forum.
If you have an auto. The next two paragraphs cover one of them. If you have a stick. Just forget the auto suggestions.
Does your truck have the towing pack? If it doesn't. Then I would look for a transmission cooler. One of the higher priced ones with a temp controlled fan would be my choice.
Transmission temp gauge and a larger transmission pan. (Overheating an auto is the fastest way to kill one).
Heavier shocks on the rear. (stock shock are a little weak for towing).
If the rear drops very much with the trailer on. I would think of a set of air bags to level the rig with. They cost more than overload springs. But you don't carry the rougher ride from the overloads when lightly loaded.
A boost gauge and exhaust temp gauge. You need to know what the engine is doing when you are towing.
Welcome to the forum.
Thank you for your help. I forgot to say the trans. is an auto. where can I get a heavy duty cooler with a fan. Would Dodge have them? I have to temp gage. Got it from Geno's garage. Does anybody know haw I can hook it up. Goes on the oil dip stick. Where do I get the hot wire to feed the gage? Where do I wire in the light? Take care.
Depending on the year of your truck the auto could be the 727 3spd or the updated A518 with OD.
If you don't know just look to see if you have an OD (overdrive) button on the dash, just below the speedo, set into a black piece of dash plastic molding. If there is a button, you've got the A518.
Either way both trannies do not have a lockup convertor. They are strictly 'fluid coupling' systems and generally run hotter than the newer transmissions.
A transmission temp gauge is a must. Normal operating temps for these trannies is between 150 -180*F.
Towing will raise the temps significantly, especially if the transmission is getting old, poorly kept/serviced, or overloaded via HP upgrades or weight.
Sustained running over 200*F will reduce trans. life markedly.
Occasional spurts into the 200-230*F range can be tolerated if the transmission is allowed to cool back into normal range after a hard pull. Our trans. can actually hit upwards of 250*F if you can believe that... .
You can just downshift and use more RPM's to keep temps cooler,,, I do.
The guage can go in one of two places.
1) In the line that comes out of the TC and goes to the 1st cooler mounted under the turbo. The line is cut (usually just in front of the inspection port on the bellhousing) and a fitting with probe goes in.
This install gives you temp readings at their maximum, just as the oil exits the torque convertor on its way to the oil coolers.
These can/often do leak since its exposed and vibrates alot. Mine went about 1 year before it started to weep then leak, and was hard to tighten up properly right from the start.
2) Install an aftermarket transmission pan with probe port in it. Then the temp sender just screws into that.
This location is more protected, less likely to leak and gives you oil temp readings just prior to the oil entering the transmission internals.
You need to decide which is best for you.
Lotsa words to say very little, but I hope there is some help in
there somewere.
Bob.
If you don't know just look to see if you have an OD (overdrive) button on the dash, just below the speedo, set into a black piece of dash plastic molding. If there is a button, you've got the A518.
Either way both trannies do not have a lockup convertor. They are strictly 'fluid coupling' systems and generally run hotter than the newer transmissions.
A transmission temp gauge is a must. Normal operating temps for these trannies is between 150 -180*F.
Towing will raise the temps significantly, especially if the transmission is getting old, poorly kept/serviced, or overloaded via HP upgrades or weight.
Sustained running over 200*F will reduce trans. life markedly.
Occasional spurts into the 200-230*F range can be tolerated if the transmission is allowed to cool back into normal range after a hard pull. Our trans. can actually hit upwards of 250*F if you can believe that... .
You can just downshift and use more RPM's to keep temps cooler,,, I do.
The guage can go in one of two places.
1) In the line that comes out of the TC and goes to the 1st cooler mounted under the turbo. The line is cut (usually just in front of the inspection port on the bellhousing) and a fitting with probe goes in.
This install gives you temp readings at their maximum, just as the oil exits the torque convertor on its way to the oil coolers.
These can/often do leak since its exposed and vibrates alot. Mine went about 1 year before it started to weep then leak, and was hard to tighten up properly right from the start.
2) Install an aftermarket transmission pan with probe port in it. Then the temp sender just screws into that.
This location is more protected, less likely to leak and gives you oil temp readings just prior to the oil entering the transmission internals.
You need to decide which is best for you.
Lotsa words to say very little, but I hope there is some help in
there somewere.
Bob.
Last edited:
Here is a place with the type of trans cooler I was talking about. I have used B&M products before. Good quality parts.
http://www.bmracing.com/noflash/products/acc_tranCoolers/hitekCooler.html
Here is another worth while addition to an auto that gets heavy use.
http://www.bmracing.com/noflash/products/acc_tranCoolers/remoteTranFilter.html
With out knowing the year of your truck and the trans it has. I didn't go looking for a deep oil pan like BushWakr suggested.
Any good automotive speed shop can get you the above listed items. Dodge would be my last option. The price they charge would be about 2X higher.
http://www.bmracing.com/noflash/products/acc_tranCoolers/hitekCooler.html
Here is another worth while addition to an auto that gets heavy use.
http://www.bmracing.com/noflash/products/acc_tranCoolers/remoteTranFilter.html
With out knowing the year of your truck and the trans it has. I didn't go looking for a deep oil pan like BushWakr suggested.
Any good automotive speed shop can get you the above listed items. Dodge would be my last option. The price they charge would be about 2X higher.
I hate those senior moments also. 
You can install the listed items your self. The amount of tools needed is not many. Screwdrivers,small hand tools,drill and bits,tubing cutter,wire and soldering gun,nut and bolts.
The trans cooler goes into the trans pressure line going TO the radiator. If you hook the trans cooler into the return line in cold weather the trans will not reach proper operating temps. This is just as bad as overheating a trans.
The filter setup goes into the return line from the radiator.
With trans pan. If you are not familiar with band adjustments. Then I would take it to a shop. The rear band adjustment is done inside the trans pan. While the pan is down, now is the time to do it.
Your trans is the 518 model.
If you have any more qestions. Just ask.
You can install the listed items your self. The amount of tools needed is not many. Screwdrivers,small hand tools,drill and bits,tubing cutter,wire and soldering gun,nut and bolts.
The trans cooler goes into the trans pressure line going TO the radiator. If you hook the trans cooler into the return line in cold weather the trans will not reach proper operating temps. This is just as bad as overheating a trans.
The filter setup goes into the return line from the radiator.
With trans pan. If you are not familiar with band adjustments. Then I would take it to a shop. The rear band adjustment is done inside the trans pan. While the pan is down, now is the time to do it.
Your trans is the 518 model.
If you have any more qestions. Just ask.
Thank you for your help Phillip and BushWakr. I have been a member of the TDR since I've had my truck 1993. I will do as you have suggested. I know that the trans. on my truck is the weak link.
If I every do have to replace it what should I put in? I have 54,000 miles on the truck, haven't used it much. But I guess I will now after I get the RV. Take care.
If I every do have to replace it what should I put in? I have 54,000 miles on the truck, haven't used it much. But I guess I will now after I get the RV. Take care.
The 518 is just a 727 with an over drive added into the tail housing. It isn't that weak. With proper care and regular service work on it. It will last a long while.
My truck has 128k on it. I pulled the pan at 92k. It was very clean inside for the mileage and with no service work ever being done on it. I did the band adjustments. Now its good till the next 36k mile service schedule.
I would stay with the 518. (When it dies). Just have a good shop rebuild it. Add a few aftermarket parts. Then it will out live the body.
My truck has 128k on it. I pulled the pan at 92k. It was very clean inside for the mileage and with no service work ever being done on it. I did the band adjustments. Now its good till the next 36k mile service schedule.
I would stay with the 518. (When it dies). Just have a good shop rebuild it. Add a few aftermarket parts. Then it will out live the body.
The same place that you buy the cooler and filter setup from sould be able to get you a trans gauge. I have never used one of the types you have now.
I would think with it hooked to the dip stick it would not give you a good reading of the actual temp of the trans fluid. How does it hookup? Does it use a hose clamp to retain it? If you do not have it mounted all the way down against the case. I think it could be off quite a bit my self. IMHO
What is the brand of that gauge so I can go run some spec's on it.
I would think with it hooked to the dip stick it would not give you a good reading of the actual temp of the trans fluid. How does it hookup? Does it use a hose clamp to retain it? If you do not have it mounted all the way down against the case. I think it could be off quite a bit my self. IMHO
What is the brand of that gauge so I can go run some spec's on it.
I bought the gauge from TDR Geno's Garage quite a few years ago but never hooked it up. Since I'm going to get the bigger trains. oil pan I'm going to see if Geno's Garage has a sending unit for the gauge that will go in the pan. The gauge is made by Westberg MFG. Inc. The sending unit wires to the dip stick. I have never used the gauge. I can't fine anybody in my area that handles the B&M oil cooler or filter. I called them but as of now no one has got back to me. Again thank you for your help. I just got off the phone with a trailer place that I have dealt with before, they are going to put in the Reese 16K hitch for me. Take care.
More transmission Cooler
How many of the first Gens. have the aux. transmission cooler under the rear fender . My 93 does and I thought It was std. equipment for all 93's. Maybe not. I dont know where you can get one like I have but I dont know how you can pull a Travel trailer up a grade in hot weather without one. My transmission will stay below 180 without a Trailer but with my 27' 5er on a grade and hot weather will go to 230 deg. in a hurry. My sensor switch is out and I have the fan conn. to a toggle switch. You can watch the temp go down in a hurry when the fan is on. Believe the temps would have gone to250 or higher without cooling fan on. Anyone Know where I can get a sensor switch for this cooler?
Thanks: Bob F.
How many of the first Gens. have the aux. transmission cooler under the rear fender . My 93 does and I thought It was std. equipment for all 93's. Maybe not. I dont know where you can get one like I have but I dont know how you can pull a Travel trailer up a grade in hot weather without one. My transmission will stay below 180 without a Trailer but with my 27' 5er on a grade and hot weather will go to 230 deg. in a hurry. My sensor switch is out and I have the fan conn. to a toggle switch. You can watch the temp go down in a hurry when the fan is on. Believe the temps would have gone to250 or higher without cooling fan on. Anyone Know where I can get a sensor switch for this cooler?
Thanks: Bob F.
250*F... see post above. Bill K has said a number of times (to me) that the 1st Gen trannies all ran hotter than the newer ones, the reasons are less important than the fact that it does.
My 93 did not have the aux cooler in the fender well as mentioned but it does have one out front of the rad.
My orig. trans would have normal operating temps around town of 180*F + and a hard stomp on the throttle could push it up into 200*F - 230*F .
My new one rarely climbs over 150*F. In fact only with air conditioning on HIGH and lots of traffic does it come off the 140* mark. I've NEVER seen temps over 165*F - 175*F and that only once.
The A518 is a very good trans. If you only have 54K on it, then you can certainly expect good life from it if you take care of it.
Full/regular service, and adjustment, have the line pressure increase a bit (60psi is max). This will help reduce slippage and that helps keep temps down and wear is reduced.
A shift kit will also help your towing shifts if properly set up.
Type 3 ATF has less friction modifiers in it than type 4 ATF. Type 4 makes your shifts smoother by allowing a bit more 'slippage' which is one of the causes of heat.
Using a more "aggressive" ATF will firm up shifts noticably and make them feel "crisper". Dexron is a "more aggressive" ATF for example.
Another Rammer swears by a hydraulic oil referred to as AW32.
He has used it for eons and says it has all the things that ATF doesn't but should have. I have no personal experience with this oil and don't know about its 'friction modifier' properties.
If you're towing you can adjust your trans to shift a tiny bit later on each shift, which will let you gain a bit of RPM. This will help alot I would think.
Last item... the single most important weakness in your/our system is the TC. It is too inefficient at low RPM's. As you increase your HP you will start 'raising' your TC stall speed. Normally from factory, right out of the manual the stall test should show a stall between 1700 RPM and 1900 RPM. As HP goes up, that number will climb because you begin to "pull through it"
Having your shifts a bit later will allow the TC to operate at a slightly higher RPM and keep it in/near/above stall so you're not just generating as much heat.
Just my personal thoughts, for what they're worth.
Bob.
My 93 did not have the aux cooler in the fender well as mentioned but it does have one out front of the rad.
My orig. trans would have normal operating temps around town of 180*F + and a hard stomp on the throttle could push it up into 200*F - 230*F .
My new one rarely climbs over 150*F. In fact only with air conditioning on HIGH and lots of traffic does it come off the 140* mark. I've NEVER seen temps over 165*F - 175*F and that only once.
The A518 is a very good trans. If you only have 54K on it, then you can certainly expect good life from it if you take care of it.
Full/regular service, and adjustment, have the line pressure increase a bit (60psi is max). This will help reduce slippage and that helps keep temps down and wear is reduced.
A shift kit will also help your towing shifts if properly set up.
Type 3 ATF has less friction modifiers in it than type 4 ATF. Type 4 makes your shifts smoother by allowing a bit more 'slippage' which is one of the causes of heat.
Using a more "aggressive" ATF will firm up shifts noticably and make them feel "crisper". Dexron is a "more aggressive" ATF for example.
Another Rammer swears by a hydraulic oil referred to as AW32.
He has used it for eons and says it has all the things that ATF doesn't but should have. I have no personal experience with this oil and don't know about its 'friction modifier' properties.
If you're towing you can adjust your trans to shift a tiny bit later on each shift, which will let you gain a bit of RPM. This will help alot I would think.
Last item... the single most important weakness in your/our system is the TC. It is too inefficient at low RPM's. As you increase your HP you will start 'raising' your TC stall speed. Normally from factory, right out of the manual the stall test should show a stall between 1700 RPM and 1900 RPM. As HP goes up, that number will climb because you begin to "pull through it"
Having your shifts a bit later will allow the TC to operate at a slightly higher RPM and keep it in/near/above stall so you're not just generating as much heat.
Just my personal thoughts, for what they're worth.
Bob.
Last edited:
Blue Jay
one thing that everyone forgot to mention, make sure the rubber hose you get for you trans cooler is MADE for automatic transmissions. A lot of standard rubber hose WILL not stand up to transmission fuild and the heat.
Kyle
one thing that everyone forgot to mention, make sure the rubber hose you get for you trans cooler is MADE for automatic transmissions. A lot of standard rubber hose WILL not stand up to transmission fuild and the heat.
Kyle
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
