Towing with a 2500

[Wiredawg]

Cumminpwr11:



It was about the same cost to trade 2500 for 3500 as it would be to convert 2500 to a 3500 right. I mean fenders (or a whole bed), dually conversion, replace springpack, upgrade brakes.



I got my 3500 for 60 mo's zero interest. Net difference was about $2,000 and way less trouble. And I negotiated with the dealer to let me transfer my exhaust system, exhaust brake, injectors, bumpers, tool box, nerf bars, air bags (sold those), gauges, trailer controller, headache rack, front hitch and 5th wheel hitch.



So, you can see there's an easy and a hard way to get there. After looking at all the stuff I transferred, I can't remeber which one would have been harder.



Best of luck on you decision.



Wiredawg

 

[dberry]

Just wondering why you would have to replace the springpack? My '98 2500 has the same pack (4 main 2 overload) as my friends '01 3500. I too would like 2 extra tires just for safety, not because a dually can haul more (I no gvw is higher on 3500). I think this topic really boils down to mine is better than yours, not that all you dually guys are so concerned about us 3/4 ton guys. C'mon they are all the same trucks (basically) and we all have to live (or die) with our decisions, just be safe!!!!!!!!!Sorry if I ****** anyone off - just my opinion.

 

[HEYBOSS]

Sorry

but they are not the same truck. I've towed my 12k 5er with a 3/4 ton converted to a one ton without the duallies and for some reason my dually with the same 5er feels a little safer. I think there's a slight difference. To each it's own but anyone that has towed heavier and bigger loads with both trucks may tell you the same. I rather be safe than die with the wrong decision.

 

[DPelletier]

Fred,

You're right, they're not the same truck, but they are close. A truck is just a collection of parts. Once you find and replace all the 2500 only parts with 3500 DRW only parts, from a scientific perspective you have the same vehicle. Now, we hear a lot of arguments over just what parts are different. It depends somewhat on year and model, but the reality is that when talking about Dodge trucks there aren't many differences between 2500's and 3500's. There are differences between different models and years as well. For instance a '01 2500 auto is farther from a 3500 than an '01 manual transmission truck because it has the Dana 70, rather than the Dana 80 hybrid.

Its obvious that you can make a 2500 into the functional equivalent of a 3500 DRW (by changing the appropriate parts AND adding the DRW's), BUT I don't recommend doing this for several reasons;

1) The legal GVWR capacity doesn't change

2) It likely costs as much or more than trading the 2500 on a 3500 DRW truck

3) Even if the costs are the same, you don't have the same value. You have a 2500 with a bunch of 3500 parts, rather than a 3500.



I think the biggest single difference between a 3500 DRW and a 2500 is the dual rear wheels. That's where the stability comes from. If you're not going to add the duallies, you're not accomplishing much from my perspective. I'm not condemning all you 2500 guys that are running over GVWR, in fact, I was one of you not all that long ago. I would also agree that the 2500's GVWR rating seems suspect, BUT I don't think anyone can argue that a DRW truck isn't safer and more stable when running heavy.



Dave

 

[Wiredawg]

The Spring Packs are Different

All:



The spring packs are different on the same year 2500s and 3500s. There are codes painted on them. Larry Willard and I compared and they are different. It's not just the number of leaves, it's the thickness and arching.



When I said I researched it, I really checked everything out. I had a 00 2500 with dual fill on board airbags (add 5K capacity), a Hellwig aftermarket HD antisway bar. It pulled it fine. I bragged on it many times right here on this website.



I haven't bothered to search for my post, but I proved (at least to me) that my 2500 was a SRW 3500. I did a feature to feature comparison of my 2500 to a 3500 including "MY revised" GWR, GCVWR.



Then, I changed my mind. And, If you read my earlier posts, you'll see the sheared mounting bracket bolts for the air bags. Both sides.



So, you can make a 2500 into a 3500, sort of.



It's everyone's one decision. You can see how I made mine.



Wiredawg

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Silk purses/Sow's ears...

 

[jimnance]

If it makes you feel better I'm thinking of using one of our spare Class 8 trucks to pull my 37' fiver.



It may be a little over kill as the GVWR is 38,000 lbs and GCVWR exceeds 80,000 lbs. 435 HP Cummins N14 engine with about 1,800 ft/lb of torque. You think I'll have enough safety margin?



Interestingly, in Oregon anyone with a standard drivers license can drive a big rig as long as you are using it as an RV.



Although I've managed a trucking buisness and driven truck, can you imagine the retiree with no experience driving a class 8 truck jumping in one and pulling his fiver because he's afraid of being over weight? I wonder what is more dangerous, they retiree with the 3/4 ton pulling overweight or the same guy using a class 8 truck?



Also, you can aquire a reasonably low mile Class 8 truck (400,000 miles is low miles) for less than the cost of a comparable year model Dodge CTD. Hummm.....



I wonder how it will pull the hills with only 15,000 lbs behind?

Originally posted by Gary - KJ6Q

Silk purses/Sow's ears...

 

[HEYBOSS]

Actually you would be in deep trouble with the class 8 truck!



Unless it was converted to pull the 5er, the class 8 suspension is too hard on the 5er and you'll end up cracking and braking the pin box of the fifth wheel. You see everything in it's place. Bigger doesn't mean better, but the right tool for the right job.



You'll still be safer with the 3500 drw



Someone could correct me if I'm wrong!