Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) TRack bar removal

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) My Christmas Wish List

Status
Not open for further replies.
How exactly are you guys that are using the pitman arm puller using the puller when removing the track bar. Whew say that 5 times real fast:D anyway are you hooking the bracket with the jaws and pushing the stud out of the bracket or what? This project is near and it would be alot easier to just get under there and pop it out and not have to play around with it to find the best way.



Thanks,

Paul
 
I used a pickle fork and hammer to remove my track bar. There is room to swing your hammer in that area. I believe most guys just use a pickle and hammer. The pitman arm puller works great to remove the tapered bolt on the steering stabilizer. Both tools are handy to have in your toolbox. I never tried the pitman puller on my track bar, I'm not even sure it would fit.
 
Pardon my stupidity but, where is the track bar and why or what causes the need for it to be replaced ?? I'm assuming it's part of the suspension system ??
 
Bob, a track bar is used on a 4x4 to locate the solid front axle under the frame. Without it, the truck would be free to sway side to side over the axle that pivots up and down on links. If you don't have a 4x4, you don't have a track bar. The track bar is attached to a pivot on the passenger side of the axle and has a ball joint on the other end similar to a tie rod end that is attached to the frame. That way the axle can move up and down but not side to side. When the ball joint wears on the track bar it allows some side to side movement and that creates sloppy steering. That is when you replace it.
 
I had to use a Pitman arm puller on my steering stabilizer shock so luckily had it for use on my track bar.



When I changed the track bar I couldn't get a good swing at the ball stud with a hammer and tried the Pitman arm puller. It kept sliding off the stud and I was getting pretty frustrated. Then my wife came out to see what all the fuss was about and picked up a crow bar, inserted it between the stud and the puller bolt. Bingo! it kept the bolt from sliding out and worked like a charm.



The bar was one of those thin, flat and wide bars for removing nails.



Hope this helps,



Bugman.
 
Pickle fork

Just an update to let you all know I ended up using a pickle fork, worked great just a couple hard raps with a 2 1/2 lb. sledge and it poped right loose.



Thanks for the reply's,

Paul
 
Rebuilt the bar

Forrest,



I used the Luke's link rebuild kit. Very easy to install and works good too, now I do not have to saw the wheel back and forth going down the road and it's not as exciting when going through construction zones and hoping you don't take some pilons out when going through the work zones.



Paul
 
Track bar removal- truck jacked up or on ground or doesn't matter? And for re-installing-jacked up or not? Put Lukes Link on but don't know if I re-installed it correctly, just wondering. Thanks
 
Kalaehina, leave the tires on the ground and the new bar will fit right in. Jack up the front and the axle will shift when you pop out the first side of the bar.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top