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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Track bar

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Boost problem

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JoeMartin said:
Ok I've also got the same thing going on here

I'm a new member to this site and just love what I'm reading.

I've got a 94 2500 4wd and finally at 95,000 the track bar is loose on the frame side so I'm also looking for info. Alls I do is haul a 24' Car trailer and plow a couple of driveway during the winter so am I better going with a Stock replacement from someone like NAPA?

How ofter do these things wear out?

I have Thuren's website info and I've also seen Darin mentioned.

Does someone have a website for them?



I also saw today SoilidSteel's website and they also have one listed.



I know a stock replacement is about 160. 00 what do the other's run?



Thanks Joe
Its a fair question that I've also been trying to answer and you get opinions about all the choices being the best. Some go for OEM replacement. I think it's better to upgrade to a better design like the 2003 bar and eliminate the poor ball joint design. There's probably a reason Dodge changed the design. I went with the Lukes link as a tempory fix cause I did not want to spent the money and had not decide on what bar to get... I'm still undecided on what aftermarket one to go with.



I can tell you for sure you need to replace it (If you know its bad) if you want to avoid the "Death Wobble" many like me have experienced. That is the first thing to fix and its relatively easy. Any loose joint in the front end can cause it along with shocks. It sure rides better when every thing is tight and then you get spoiled by any play in the steering.



http://www.solidsteel.biz/
You must order from one of the approved vendors. This site is the only place (to my knowledge) that makes the DSS (Dodge Steering Stabilizer) which helps eliminate the steering box play. I think I'll get one. Supposed to help the slop in steering.



http://www.dtprofab.com/



http://www.thurenfabrication.com/



www.lukeslink.com For $66 you can rebuild the TB frame end like I did.







Dave
 
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There actually appear to be at least two versions of the trackbar bracket and maybe the DSS. Apparently there is a solidsteel. bis and a solidsteel. ca which have some type of history regarding each other. There was a thread on TDR a while back which went it the relationship. The original trackbar bracket which converts the 2nd Gen to a 3rd Gen trackbar and uses the factory 3rd Gen trackbar seems to be the same between both companies. Solidsteel. biz seems to be the only one making an adjustable trackbar which can be used with lifted vehicles and a slightly different bracket to use with the adjustable trackbar.
 
Dave

I've already had that horrify'n experiance. Was on the highway with an 18' open trailer and an F250 on it headed to the auction for one of my friends, Hit a slightly open expantion joint at around 70mph and almost had a heart attack right on the spot. I've been in the car business for years and thats the first time I've ever bee really scared S*** L*** in my life. I remember the older GM RWD cars when the idler arm and steering stabilizer used to go bad and this was about 4 times worse. I thought I dropped the whole front end right off the truck. after further investagation it need right inner and outter tie rod, replaced the front shocks and steering stabilizer and then a week later I replaced the left outter, on top of that I thnik what ever I hit to begin with broke a belt in one of the front tires so I wound up with 2 of those also.

Needless to say after 1000. 00 spent on the front end in less than a week this is going to be taken care of ASAP. Now I just put my plow on this week and I have a rub bigtime on the right front while turning so its going to need Frnt Springs also. I'm thinking 46 and 47 for the front unless anyone has a good alternative to stock that can handle the wieght of the plow. .

I'm fairly new to the CTD world as this is my first one and I've only been on the site for about 2 days and am overwhelmed by the info here.



Joe.
 
Ok hears another question for all of you experianced members. I also noticed that there is a question between Lukes Link and Lindstadt kit. Anain I open for guidance here



Joe.
 
JoeMartin said:
Dave

... . Needless to say after 1000. 00 spent on the front end in less than a week this is going to be taken care of ASAP. Now I just put my plow on this week and I have a rub bigtime on the right front while turning so its going to need Frnt Springs also. I'm thinking 46 and 47 for the front unless anyone has a good alternative to stock that can handle the wieght of the plow. .

I'm fairly new to the CTD world as this is my first one and I've only been on the site for about 2 days and am overwhelmed by the info here.



Joe.

Joe,

I've spent lots also on the front end. These truck just suffer from front end problems but when its tight it great to drive. As far as front springs, I don't have much experice there... yet. . but I'm thinking of the Kore Suspension. It comes with 4 Bilstein 5100 shocks, new re-designed front springs and rear leaf spring pack in place of the overload spring. Guys that have it rave about the ride quality. Its not a lift kit using blocks but an all around engineered suspension system that will provide a 2 inch lift in front. Here's the web site:



http://koreperformance.com/performance_suspension.htm



The bad part is the cheapest suspension kit for us which is called the "Recon Series Diesel" pn PSD9402 is $1,540... . Ouch!

JoeMartin said:
Ok hears another question for all of you experianced members. I also noticed that there is a question between Lukes Link and Lindstadt kit. Anain I open for guidance here

Joe.

Well. . I did a search on "lindstadt" and here is one thread that has an opinion for Luke and another against Luke and for Lindstadt. What are ya going do? Its like the saying goes "Opinions are like . . uh Hum... Rearends... Everyone has one" But your job "grasshopper" is to decide which is best... . Choose wisely... . he... he... he.



http://www.tdr1.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142572&highlight=lindstadt



Hey Joe... why don't you fill in your signature (appears at the bottom of each post). Go to the top of any page and click on "First Time Help" and follow the links or go to top of page "discussion Forums" and then "Forum FAQ" and follow the links or go to top of the page and then "User Control Panel" and then "Edit signature" and type in "94 4x4 etc... what you want" so we will know what your truck has... makes it easier to help you. Have Fun... and welcome to the best CTD site on the web... . people here are very knowledgable and helpfull.



Dave
 
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JoeMartin said:
Ok hears another question for all of you experianced members. I also noticed that there is a question between Lukes Link and Lindstadt kit.

Joe.



Here is a link to Lindstad Alignment I have a Lindstadt Trac Bar and a Luke's on the right tie rod end (the expensive one). They both do pretty much the same thing but I like the Lindstad better. It uses the stock boot and keeps the joint much cleaner. The Lukes is bigger and uses a rubber disc instead of a boot to protect the joint.



I installed the Linstad joint on my trac bar (I used to be a welder) but I recommend buying the bar with it installed. I've adjusted the bar once since it was installed in '98 or '99. I've checked it a couple times but it's still tight.



For you front Mag Hytek guys, the Lukes and the Lindstad both extend the Trac Bar the same distance closer to the diff cover (3/4" if I recall correctly) and it will hit on a stock front suspension truck. Based on my discussion with Kent K. , the KORE system lifts the front high enough and the bump stops will stop the axle more than 3/4" farther from the stock bump stop positions.
 
Call Rip At Source Auto In Portland Oregon. He Has The Cure For Wobble. He's Honest And Has Good Prices I've Used Him For Several Years No Worries. His Number Is (866) 211-1533 A. Hughes Bend Oregon
 
Thanks.



Looks like I'm going to go with the Lukes link for the moment just to tighten things up as like i said I have other issues to deal with like thew springs in the front as well as a new problem today. I've got a lock-up problem so i'm headed to the engine and transmission dept. .

Thanks

Joe.
 
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