2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Trade or Not to Trade

[Rebel_Horseman]

Recently I've been thinking about selling my truck and purchasing a 12v. I love my truck and am overly pleased with the performance. I'm a little wary of the fuel supply problems common to the 24v trucks such as lift pump and subsequently injection pump failures. Secondly, I do have the dreaded #53 block. Right now I don't have much in the way of power mods but I full intend to bomb it to about 300-350 rwhp hopefully in the near future. I have a fair amount of money invested in the truck and I think she will be adequate if I don't bomb it any further (as if that's possible). The truck has 146500 on it and I think I could sell it to my friend for a reasonable price. The reason i'd like to have a 12v is the obvious benefits... easier and less expensive to bomb, slightly better fuel economy, little or no fuel system issues, etc.



I'm looking for opinions and ideas. What does it cost to bomb a 12v to the 300-350 rwhp neighborhood? I am looking for a 3500 club cab 4x4 5-speed and any year 96-98 with low(er) miles. What are these trucks costing now? Don't really care where it is so I'm willing to look to other areas. With the mods I have invested in my truck, would I be better off keeping it and bombing it to the point I want to be at and worrying about the #53 block later? The same goes for the lift pump/VP issues. Just looking for other folk's opinions on this.



Thanks for the help ya'll.



Brian [><]

 

[Got Smoke?]

Originally posted by Rebel_Horseman

What does it cost to bomb a 12v to the 300-350 rwhp neighborhood?

#1 guages (of course!) :-laf

#2 #10 TST fuel plate of bigger (know a guy with a #4 in a 96 made 390HP on dyno).

#3 New SBC 13" clutch.

#4 Scotty II air system

#5 Straightpipe



That should give you 300-350RWHP and all the Oo. Oo. Oo.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

It is hard to find a cherry, low mileage 12 valve. A couple friends of mine are thinking about getting 2004s; they both have 2WD 3500s. Kinda the exception and there won't be many such trucks around.



Another option is to get a new truck. The HO dynos at about 280 hp. DD2 injectors or the DD true torque module will take it to around 350 or so, right where you want to be. Why a new one? BRAKES (wow), 4 doors, common rail injection, 6 speed transmission with properly spaced ratios. If you buy off-the-lot right now, you can get the non-smogger 305 hp engine in most states.

 

[rmrc]

12V vs. 24V

Brian,



If you could find a real nice 12V with low mileage, I'd go for it. When I bought my truck, I had the chance of getting a 97 in immaculate shape with 45,000 miles for the same money as the 99 I have. Not knowing all of the pros & cons of 12V vs 24V at the time, I went with the 99.



Don't get me wrong. I don't have any problems with the 99 outside of replacing the lift pump. But if I had the chance to do it again, I'd go with a 12V just for the simplicity of the 12 over the 24 and fewer problem issues. I also have the dreaded 53 block but I don't have any plans on increasing the HP and rarely tow so, hopefully, I won't have any problems with a cracked block down the road.

 

[Rebel_Horseman]

I'm kinda in the same boat. A few months back when I was looking to buy a truck I had the same decision to make. I didn't know all the real issues with the trucks. I chose my truck I have now over a cherry '97 identical to mine with 47,000 original miles on it. Very little towing due to the camper shell on it and it was straight piped. Why oh why didn't I buy that truck?



I'm leaning away from the new trucks simply cause I really can't afford that much money right now. I too wan the 12v simply for the simplicity of design and NO ELECTRONICS! I'm a firm believer in the idea that I want my truck to run if a nuclear war came and an emp fried everything electronic and no one was around to make replacement parts. Ya'll understand what I mean.



Thanks for the opinions guys. Keep 'em coming.



Brian [><]