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trailer 7 pin wiring 2006 3500

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Suggestion...

Fellow Rammers:



I suggest you mount your 7-pin connection in the bed, route the cable through the side of the bed, through the plastic molding the stock plug is installed in and install a connector on the end of the tail. You are in effect making an extension cord and not splicing into the wiring.



Please keep us all posted what solution you come up with that works.



Wiredawg
 
but it still don't add the fuses that Dodge left out of the brake/turn circuits in the 06. Plug into a trailer that has a shorted brake/turn wire and you take a chance of blowing your PCM



I've asked three different hitch installers about this issue, all of them reputable, and not one of them has ever heard anything regarding problems with it. They ALL splice into the trailer wiring run for their plugs.
 
JThiessen said:
I've asked three different hitch installers about this issue, all of them reputable, and not one of them has ever heard anything regarding problems with it. They ALL splice into the trailer wiring run for their plugs.



Print out the following and show them.



Here is the 06 diagram, go down to page 4. On the RS is the 2 brake/turn feeds into the trailer tow harness, no fuses. On the LS is the park lamp feed, it is fused.



Here is the 05 diagram, go down to page 4. You see relays in the PDC for the brake/turn trailer tow harness that have a fuse before them.



If you plug your 05 into a trailer with a dead short on either tow circuit, and the relay survives you will blow fuse 46 or 47.



In an 06 you blow the PCD before fuse 12 blows according to the results I have been reading here. I have been told they did away with the relays and used solid state electronics instead.
 
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BGiles said:
I think this might work,



#ad


7-WAY RV HARNESS ADAPTER

Adapts Chrysler 7-Way rectangular to OEM 7-way round connection. Eliminates the need for splicing or rewiring.

MFG# 11-933

Price $23. 00



Looks like it would be pretty easy to modify this adapter with a few inline fuses.
 
Check out the Draw-tite web site for part # 20111. It is a T type connector 7' long with a Bargeman type 7 pin for the PU bed. $65 + shipping at the dealer I went thru.



Bear
 
I have an '06 3500 which is factory wired (I assume) with a 7 way plug in the bed for a camper, and a 7 way at the back bumper for a trailer and a 4 way at the bumper for towing a boat behind the camper. On my last trip the wires to the boat trailer got pinched in a turn against the frame of the boat trailer. This undoubtedly caused a short. Then I found I had a right turn light on the camper and no lights on the boat. The lights on the truck still work. (Interesting trip from Truckee, CA to Santa Rosa CA Sunday afternoon July 8 on Hwy 80 with no brake lights or turn signals, 99 degrees outside!) I'll check further using the wiring diagrams, but as far as I could tell all these fuses were ok. What else should I check? Any help appreciated. Also, would you have a link to the explanatory page(s) in the service manual which explains how to read the wiring diagrams.
 
Looks like it. I have no left turn/brake light circuit, no fuses are blown, and I can see from the wiring diagram that these circuits go directly to the control module. What happened to the concept of protecting sensitive electronic components with adequate overcurrent protection devices? #@$%!Question: Would it do any good to fuse these circuits at the trailer. A 5 amp fuse should be adequate for the bulb. Or is there some other device that would protect the circuit. Unfortunately shorts in boat trailers are not uncommon, and this potentially expensive problem could recur in the future. Thanks again for your help.
 
It's a good idea to add in-line fuses, but you want to put them closer to the battery source. It would be better to fuse it before it goes into the ECM. I don't understand the logic of having simple light circuits runnng thru the ECM.



Hope it helps. Let us know how everthing turns out.



Wiredawg
 
There is 1 input to the ICM but multiple outputs. Reese makes a plug that uses a common Hot then uses the power comming from the truck to switch the circut as nessesary.
 
I actually meant to say fuse the outputs from the ECM. This will kill the high current before is damages the ECM. Be sure to not use slow-blow fuses.



FYI, I'm not liking, like many of you, modyfying these trucks to fix such unecessay problems. I'm consider getting a 4500 and I just hat the thought of doing this to a new truck.



Wiredawg
 
The dealer reset it, and only charged me $25. 00!! A friend told me I might have been able to reset it by disconnecting and reconnecting both battery grounds, but I didn't try it. I'm going to add a fuse box and 3 relays, with the boat trailer lights powered direct from the battery through the fuses and relays, and use the circuit from the control module as the control circuit for the relays. I'll extend that circuit by using a trailer plug harness to the relay controls, and then another car side plug from the relays, and plug the boat trailer into that plug. Then a short will blow the fuses, but not affect the control circuit. I used #4 wire from the battery so that I can add other accessories, like docking lights and also have an adequate charge wire for a spare battery or charging the boat battery on the road. Basically adding a second fuse box, like Dodge should have done. I'll let you know how it works.
 
anyone come up with the "ultimate answer" to the 5th wheel in-box 7-pin connector wiring problem?(including the lack of fuses in the turn/tailight circuits). I have an 08' mega cab DRW and will need to address this by spring for my 40' toyhauler.
 
So I could haul a camper on my 98. 5 and tow a trailer I made up a cord that plugged into the 7 pin at the bumper with another cord going up to the front of the bed for the camper and another 7 pin outlet at the bumper for the trailer. This should work unless you try to run more load on the circuit than it was designed for. Camping World has all the connectors and wire/cords needed.
 
The dealer reset mine and also only charged me $25. 00, but not till I drove from Truckee to Santa Rosa with no tail lights or turn signals on a busy summer afternoon. I ran a wire from the battery (protected with a circuit breaker) to the back of the truck and used it and relays to control the turn, taillight and brake light circuits (protected with fuses). The relays are controlled by the circuits which come from the control module. A short in the trailer will blow the fuse but not affect the control module circuits. So far it has worked perfectly, although I haven't had any shorts to actually test it. (It helps to remember to unplug the boat trailer lights before launching. )
 
anyone come up with the "ultimate answer" to the 5th wheel in-box 7-pin connector wiring problem?(including the lack of fuses in the turn/tailight circuits). I have an 08' mega cab DRW and will need to address this by spring for my 40' toyhauler.

I did not read this entire thread but this is the setup I have on my '01.
Valley 5th Wheel Adapter

I purchased the same parts per Ken's website but never used it because I didn't like the power going thru the tiny wiring. It might not have been a problem at all but the Valley stuff is working great.
SteveB
 
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I did not read this entire thread but this is the setup I have on my '01.

Valley 5th Wheel Adapter



I purchased the same parts per Ken's website but never used it because I didn't like the power going thru the tiny wiring. It might not have been a problem at all but the Valley stuff is working great.

SteveB



I ended up using the same set-up as you (mine was from Husky-looks identical) and spliced in a weather proof ATO type fuse holder in each of the right and left turn/brake wires. Am going to start out with 20A fuse in them.
 
7 pin harness

I bought a 7 pin gooseneck harness from etrailer.com. Works great Tees into factory harness no splicing. 06 2500 4x4
 
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