Trailer bearings

[DZLFREK]

So I just bought a new (used) Sea Ray 180. Nice boat, but the trailer needs some work. Including in the work is new trailer bearings and fix the brakes. Is replacing the trailer bearings hard to do? The brakes are going to get fixed by a mechanic, but if I can do the bearings... I'd rather. How does one do this and what tools are required. Any and all help would be helpful.



Thanks everyone!



David

 

[AClayton]

If you are going to take the trailer to a mechanic for the brakes,have them also do the minimal job of bearings and seals at that time. Or..... do it yourself and order new backing plates that just bolt on,bleed the brakes and be done. Not hard to do at all. When trailer gets inspected,you will know then if you need new drums. Boat trailers and their brakes are abused regulary... . not owners fault,just the enviroment they are placed in. If the actuator is old and leaky,I would probably just replace that also... . These parts can be rebuilt,but doing the work yourself will justify throwing money into new parts vs. paying a mechanic and his labor rate to perform a simple bolt-on task. Something to consider!



Alan

 

[Grizzly]

I do all my own brake and bearing work on my RV's. It's not that difficult. I have noticed that RV stores have a RV maintenance manual, which looks very comprehensive. Sounds like you could use one.



You can also get a RV Manual online. At that price I might get one myself.

 

[georgej]

Easternmarine.com has some good prices on trailer stuff. .

 

[boatpuller]

Just did a search online for "trailer bearing repack" and there are a bunch of videos, here's one but there are many more

Repack Trailer Hub Bearings Demonstration - etrailer.com





searched "trailer brake repair" and came up with this info for you

Trailer Brakes



on edit, actually looked at some more and this one has some good info,

http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Boat Trailer_brakes.htm









As has been stated it's probably cheaper and easier to just get new backing plates with all the brake components and just replace what's there than trying to repair what you've got. They aren't that hard to replace, it does make it a lot easier if there is someplace nearby that you can drop the boat in the water and leave it for the day while you go through the brakes, then you don't have to crawl under the boat to get to the backside of the brakes. Also if it has drum brakes and it needs drums instead of replacing the backing plates and drums it will probably be cheaper to convert to disc brakes, they also work better.



Good luck,

 

[KKaminski]

Repacking wheel bearings and replacing brakes are real easy, if you have some basic tools and don't mind getting your hands dirty to save a few (hundred) dollars.



I did it all on my fiver last spring for a total cost of $98. 00. All parts came dexter axle and service guides gotten from the internet.

 

[RVTRKN]

Backing plates are easier and cheaper than paying a mechanic to rebuild the brakes. I know because I kept having brake issues on my Trail Rite trailer even when it was brand new. I was getting air in the brake lines from the removable tongue that had a flaw, it would allow air in the system when the quick disconnect was used in the coupling or uncoupling of the brake line. I replaced the backing plates twice due to this. The backing plates are just a bolt on ready brake system and you will have to bleed the system, but any part store should have the hose assy tool that lets you bleed them yourself and takes just minutes. The bearings are the hardest, but when you do the brakes you will expose the bearings anyway. You can buy a cheap wheel bearing packer to assure the grease is properly packed in the bearing as well as make it easier and less messy. More than likely your drums are OK but turn them anyway to assure their round. A machine shop wont cost that much, but it makes a huge difference if you go through the trouble of new brakes and find out their out of round. Before you take them to the machine shop clean the races and remove the seals so shavings wont hide in the hard to clean areas. Torque the hub nuts to 30 ft,lbs and spin the drums then back them off a 1/4 turn, then check for free play and how well they turn, then adjust the brakes to where you have a slight drag and your done. BTW change out the seals regardless.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

We pretty well wore out the whole Dexter brake setup on our '88 Kit 5er - and that was about the same time we had also bought the new '02 truck with the higher bed, which required flipping the axles for more clearance anyway. So, I ordered 2 complete new Hayes axle assemblies from an outfit in Texas - ran under $400 including shipping to my door as I recall - and EVERYTHING was brand new!



Got the setup installed, and for the first time had brakes that would actually STOP the trailer - the Dexter brakes had always sucked!



But, I agree - if you're going to have the brakes done by someone else anyway - and especially on a boat trailer - I'd have the guy do the bearings and seals at the same time - well worth the low added price he would probably charge.

 

[EDankievitch]

If you have to do the breaks I would convert the trailer over to disk breaks much better stopping power less moving parts and most kits come with new bearings. KODIAK makes a real nice stainless disk break kit.

 

[Grizzly]

Just did a search online for "trailer bearing repack" and there are a bunch of videos, here's one but there are many more

Repack Trailer Hub Bearings Demonstration - etrailer.com









Thanks boatpuller for a great post.

 

[Matt42]

Heads up on the bearings and bearing races. The majority of the "bubble pack" parts places and RV stores sell bearings that are made in China. They may be perfectly OK. But for my own purposes, I won't trust them. Remove one set of bearings and the race (also known as a bearing cup) and take it to a real auto parts store. Tell them that you want a complete set (2 or 4 wheel) of US made bearings. Equally acceptable to me are Canadian made, and any made in the EU. I have had excellent success with Timken and SKF bearings that are made in Mexico. FAG bearings, made in Hungary, I think, are also very good.

Most trailers use one of several common sizes. If the parts house says that no good brands are available, try another parts house, or a bearing specialty outfit.

For grease, I suggest Morey's red high temperature synthetic. It is pretty good about being water resistant. In 2004, I literally burned the travel trailer brakes on one wheel coming down the west side of Wolf Creek Pass. I backed off the brake adjustment on the back axle, and drove the remaining 500 miles home. The grease had discoloured, but it was still greasy. The stuff costs more than twice as much as the regular grease, but I think it's worth it.