Trailer Fab questions

[Henry]

Picked up an old 32' 5th wheel (free) and am using the frame to build a tow behind. It has dual 3500# axels that are in fair shape and I've cut the frame down to a 16 1/2' box (without tongue). The plan is to build a multi-purpose (3 horse slant w/ tack room, quad, car carrier) box trailer. I want to use aluminum siding and steel tube framing. Is it going to be worth it? Would it be cheaper to find a used one? Where is the best / cheapest place to get parts for this type of project? I enjoy doing the welding and Fab, but not if I can buy one for the same cost as building one. Also, if I widen the axels to 95" hub face to hub face, how much camber should I build into the axel?

 

[Mutch]

I built my own flatbed to haul my jeeps. It was alot of fun and a great learning experience. Would I do it again? Not if I was trying to save money - I thought it would be cheaper but by the time I added fenders and lights and stake pockets and tie down rings, I could've bought one for about the same. Don't forget to add the cost of grinding wheels and welding rods into your bottom line, either.



If you shop around, you could probably find a decent used trailer meeting your needs for less than it would cost to build new.

http://www.equipmenttraderonline.com/ is a good place to start loooking.



If you decide to build, http://www.northerntool.com/ carries just about everything you need.



Good luck!

Drew

 

[moparguy]

This sounds crazy, but.....

My experiance has been that unless you get a deal on materials, either used that will clean up, or new at a steal, it's just as cheap to buy trailers ready built.

 

[Rob Thomas]

I agree, if yer trying to save money, it's not gonna' happen, unless you get a smokin' deal.



The other side, is that you get a higher quality product, if you build it, assuming you know what yer doin'.



My first enclosed trailer I bought, it works fine, but the wiring and general construction was lacking quality. And if someone ran they're car/truck into that trailer, it'll be totaled, without a doubt.



So I decided to build my second one, let me just say I feel sorry fer the poor sap that decides to crash into it!! All the wire's are inside the box frame, so no worry about lights being rotted out, or yanked down by snow/ice.



It cost me the same $$ as I would've spent on a new one, but I have allum. wheels, BFG tires and 25 lights plus reverse lights, and the stop/turn/tail lights are LED's. The sides are diamond-plate allum. I have two 6,000# torsion axles, which are virtually maintenance-free. The entire frame is fully-welded (50# box of rod) and all top-noch materials, thats the differance between buying one, and building it yerself. I'll probobly never "buy" another one.



FWIW



Later, Rob

 

[Henry]

Hey Rob

That is exactly what I want to do. I'd rather have a rock solid rig, even if I spend a bit. It sounds like your trailer is set up (from a construction standpoint) much like I want to do mine. Do you have any plans, or tips on parts sources and construction. Did you center your axels @18" behing the anticipated balance point of your box? You can e-mail me if you want. -- email address removed --.

Thanks, Dave

 

[Rob Thomas]

Hey Dave,



I bought all my "steel" supplies from the local steel company, steel is pretty resonably priced. No plans, I just built it on a "wing and a prayer" The funny thing is it drives down the expressway, 80mph "rock solid" and straight as an arrow.



Tips are easy, measure once cut twice, or somthin' to that effect. Also, make sure yer square before you run a bead, cuttin' -n-grindin' blows.



The 18" past balance point is on my other trailer, doesn't work with my driving style , a little to much "wiggle" fer me. So I decided to go 24" past, and that works great, no wiggle whatsoever.



Later, Rob

 

[Rob Thomas]

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[redramnc]

The "Rule of Thumb" for locating axles that I have always heard works great is to go to center of deck area, then move backwards 1" for every foot of deck. This probably assumes 1) tagalong A-frame neck, and 2) a balanced load, but I have never heard if it does not apply to goosenecks. You can always test the deck balance on a pivot to try to get the tongue weight in the correct proportion - I think the optimum is 15% of the weight on the tongue.



If you want to cheat a little on the design find a manufactured trailer of the type and size you want to build and pirate their dimensions for axle location. Might save some headache.



Good luck and enjoy building it.