Trailer woes, tounge weight

[NSperduto]

Ok, last winter I bought a 2500 ram figuring now I can tow what ever camper I want. So I spend 3 full days this weekend at the rv show.

I find a 34ft camper. I have a question because all their floor plans show 8000-900 lb tounge weight, but the one I want shows 1200. The saleman and factory rep say now way it's that high, it has to be a misprint.



So I come home and realize the oem class iv hitch is only rated to 1200 lbs tounge weight max. I call the dealer and told him I had to know exaclty what it was, the rep was there and they had the factory weigh one, it's 1100 lbs tounge weight with the trailer empty. So now I'm pretty much hosed. because the thruck that I thought could do it all, can't

A 5th wheel is out of the question because I use it to haul dirtbikes when I tow my camper.



I've heard there's a class V hitch, but I don't know anything about them yet and I don't know who makes them. I know Reese does not.



So now I'm hosed and not sure what to do, the camper order is on hold at the moment based on the dealer telling me the tounge weight should be around 800. The GVW of the trailer comes in at 9500, so that's below the tow rating of the truck. So I figured for the most part I was ok.



Any ideas,

Nick

 

[gonzo2]

With a GVW of 9500 you can easily have a Tounge weight of 1200. General rule is 10-15%.

There are Class V recievers available for our tucks and indeed are quite common. I'm sure any hitch house could set you up.

In reality, with a proper WD (ie. spring bars rated to 1200lbs) set up you should be fine at or near the factory maximum. WD hitches also take some weight off the hitch, but I don't count on it when figuring out capacities.

Order the trailer you want and when you have it go through the process of properly weighing everything and setting up you WD hitch and after, at worst, you can easily get a Class V reciever.

Just my opinion.

Craig

 

[Kirwin]

1200 lbs tounge weight

Nick see my post over in the 5000 vs 7500 lbs thread. I think you will be OK. Just be aware that you need to keep an eye on the factory hitch. Many on here use the factory hitch for competition pulling with good results. It is not indestructable but will handle a lot of work (abuse). Ken Irwin

 

[NSperduto]

Thanks, I didn't think that class V were out for our trucks yet.

I was also worried that with 1200 the max and it 1100 dry, he front of the camper has the pass through storage and the bathroom is also forward of the axle, so I assume the black holding tank is forward too. possibly adding more weight to the tounge.



I'll look around for the class V

 

[Bertram65]

Check out the Reese Titan, up to 14K and 1700 lb tougue wieght with WD. www.reeseprod.com the part number for the Titan for a 3rd gen is 45288.

 

[NSperduto]

Thanks, I've been checking it out and I've found a couple class V hitches that still have the 2" opening. So that may be my option. I just have to research the dodge application more because I think the OEM hitch might be welded on and the class V would sit below the stock hitch.



Nick

 

[Bertram65]

I do not believe the factory hitch is welded a number of people have removed them for one reason or another. I think the Titan fits with the factory hitch in place and just goes under it.

 

[oilburner]

According to the service manual it is bolted on.

 

[smartineau]

there is also tork-lift hitches, they are good to a 1,500 lb. tongue weight.



Since the trailer is on hold, can you do the 5th wheel toy hauler? instead of putting the dirt bikes in the bed of the truck.



steve

 

[Rockcrawler]

Check out the 5000/7500 thread - some useful info there. The factory hitch is confirmed to be a bolt in. The reese titan has issues as noted in that thread. Pulling with the hitch is an entirely different load and will want to rotate the hitch upward to some extent vs. hitch weight wanting to bend it down. Get a good WD hitch (The equalizer brand is unique and worth looking at) and go for it. The WD really changes how the truck is loaded and makes life much easier for the hitch and the way it is mounted.



The class 5's, which bolt under the factory hitch, are butt ugly IMO. I know some need them and aesthetics are subjective. The only reason they make them this way is cause the factory hitch is a bich to remove/install and people would freak at the labor charge.

 

[JHardwick]

This is an after thought Nick, but if you wanted a truck that would tow anything you want, why a 2500?

 

[Rockcrawler]

This is an after thought Nick, but if you wanted a truck that would tow anything you want, why a 2500?

I'll give you that the duallies have better handling (on paper anyway) and more pin weight capacity in the bed- but ever compare tow ratings??



My SRW is rated for 23000 or maybe 23500, I forget which, combined rating, I think the 2500's are right there too.

 

[JRMora]

I'll give you that the duallies have better handling (on paper anyway) and more pin weight capacity in the bed- but ever compare tow ratings??



My SRW is rated for 23000 or maybe 23500, I forget which, combined rating, I think the 2500's are right there too.

ah flame away...



There is a common misconception about towing with SRW trucks. Most of them have high GCWR's but put a 13000 lb trailer on them and you'll be waaay over the GVWR of your truck.



I know, you can do what you want, but from a strictly legal standpoint (and a safety standpoint with my family, I want a truck that will be within on all ratings - GVWR, GAWR, and GCWR.



Had both - would buy nothing but a dually again to pull a large trailer.



OK, asbestos shorts are on...



Juan

 

[Rockcrawler]

ah flame away...



There is a common misconception about towing with SRW trucks. Most of them have high GCWR's but put a 13000 lb trailer on them and you'll be waaay over the GVWR of your truck.



I know, you can do what you want, but from a strictly legal standpoint (and a safety standpoint with my family, I want a truck that will be within on all ratings - GVWR, GAWR, and GCWR.



Had both - would buy nothing but a dually again to pull a large trailer.



OK, asbestos shorts are on...



Juan

Great points, and sorry for leaving them out, I do pay attention to those and respect that many do not. That said, my 01 2500 SB used to go down the road at 19-20k with a custom 5er flatbed, legal within all those parameters

(I've got the weight tickets to prove it. ) Ran it about 15k a yr. Now have an 8500/9000 lb enclosed race trailer, tow about 25k a yr.



I just see the SRW's get a bum rap for a job 1/2 done when in reality they are more than enough for most owners and have practical advantages as a second or family car in a pinch. We all know there's a bunch of dually's out there that'll never tow more than a coupleof waterbikes or a bass boat



sorry I did not "splain myself" better the first time around

 

[JHardwick]

I just see the SRW's get a bum rap for a job 1/2 done when in reality they are more than enough for most owners and have practical advantages as a second or family car in a pinch. We all know there's a bunch of dually's out there that'll never tow more than a coupleof waterbikes or a bass boat

I thought this was about a guy buying a 2500 figuring he can tow whatever he wants and then finds a camper that he at least needs a 3500 to tow.



I personally tow horse trailers and a flat bed with tractors or hay and feel way more comfortable with the DRW and loads with a high center of gravity ... ... ..... since you asked

 

[Rockcrawler]

I thought this was about a guy buying a 2500 figuring he can tow whatever he wants and then finds a camper that he at least needs a 3500 to tow.

As long as we're stirring the pot and having a healthy discussion, what part of his proposed 9500 lb trailer with 1200 lb hitch weight is beyond a 2500's reach?



If you think the hitch on a 3500 and the way it's mounted is any better you might want to take another look. I'll admit that the 2500 is close to it's 9k max with the hitch weight but then again, it's not out of the question to redistribute the load in the camp trailer. I'd expect most camp trailers would be designed with the fresh black and grey tanks located so it does not swing hitch weight a huge amount when full etc.



This guy is looking for practical answers for his situation, not just "shoulda bought a bigger truck"



If it makes everyone feel better, I bought a 3500srw when I got my 03, for more gvw cushion etc, still don't want or need a dually or 8' bed.

 

[timjones]

Why don't you have the dealer just move the axles on the trailer 1-3 inches forward? you should still have plenty of room in the fenders for this. If your ordering the trailer rather than buying off the lot this should not be any problem, even off the lot the dealer should do it for little or no charge. If they won't move the carrier asslembly as its welded in place, you might be able to slide the alxes on the springs a little. your only looking to move 200 pounds to the back.



Even if they won't do any thing your still fine, just keep in mind when your loading the bays to go heavy in the back, if you have/get a gen set put it in the back instead of the front. Their is a lot that can be done to over come a very slight wieght distrabution problem besides expencive new hitches.

 

[DPelletier]

Although I subscribe to the "more is always better" theory , I have to agree with Rockcrawler, the proposed trailer would seem to be within the capacities of the 2500 mentioned (with the appropriate WD set-up). If he does have a problem, it will be with the hitch rating, not the GVWR unless the tongue weight loaded is far above 1200 lbs. On the other hand, for my load, a SRW/shortbox with 35" load range D tires just wouldn't cut it as I'm right at my 12,000 lbs GVWR all loaded up.

If'n it were me, I'd buy the trailer, load it up, weigh it and buy a class 5 hitch only if I was well over 1200 lbs.



my 2 pennies,

Dave



On edit: his GVWR cushion may disappear depending on the load in the truck box and a 5er toyhauler would likely have too much tongue weight for his 9000 lbs GVWR.

 

[gonzo2]

Sorry Dave, but I agree.

 

[DPelletier]

Sorry Dave, but I agree.

Not sure what you mean?



Dave