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TrailerTowing Question... Light Brakes, Heavy Brakes , Hydralic over Electric etc

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I have just hooked up my 26'Travel Trailer to my new 2014 6.7 Diesel 6 speed Manual Transmission 2500 4x4 ST Long bed. Going through the "Vehicle Settings" to the Towing Info Settings, I have the option of different brake settings (Light Brakes, Heavy Brakes, Hydraulic over Electric etc.)

The trailer weighs approx. 7500 lbs loaded. I have read all the info about towing that came in the Owners Manual including Exhaust Brake applications.

My question to the readers is, which level of brake settings would be appropriate for this trailer for freeway applications?

The owners manual and Dodge Ram owners give no specifics and are very vague regarding this subject.
Thanks for your help.....
Reno Dave
 
I would use "heavy electric" and adjust the power accordingly. If its too much even on low settings, you can go to "light brakes" and adjust till its good.
 
I run the brakes heavy on the freeways/highways and lighten em' up in town.
 
My trailer, empty, weighs in at about 9,000 lbs. Add perhaps 600 lbs when loaded put no water in the fresh water tank. I set my brakes for light electric and applying the brakes, the trailer acts as if there are no brakes on it. Yes, I did check out the trailer brakes and they are fine. I went through all the settings and still, can't even lock up the trailer brakes, not that I want to. I can activate the brake settings in the cab by slidng the + sign over but this only gives me the highest reading of 7. I can not get the brakes to show the highest setting which is a number 10. If the - sign is suppose to do anything, it won't even move on my truck. What could I be doing wrong.
 
I am running on light #8 with a 5000 lb trailer. I have not tried "heavy" with a lower setting yet but will on the next trip. The controller does seem to be quite smooth but I would like to feel the trailer brakes lead the truck brakes slightly. This is with standard electric brakes.
 
I can't get past #5 no matter how hard I tried. I'm going to go on record and say that these new trucks and cars just have way to many computers that rely on each other to feed information to the main mother board. Every time I get a re-flash it screws up something. Tis time to pack my Harley with my tent and go camping that way.
 
Confusing isn't it. The owners manual tells you to check out the CD. The CD tells you to check out the owners manual. And, the service manager knows nothing!
 
Another problem that I can add to my growing list of problems. I can hardly get the ABS to kick in and believe me, there have been some very close calls. My 2014 Rubicon jeep can stop faster than my truck.
 
Bill it seems like you have problems all the way around. If I were you I would do the lemon law and move on.

I just hit 50K today on my 11 HO Longhorn Dually. Not one problem other than crappy tires, recall for tie rod and washer bottle.

Just seems problems hit some more than others!
 
I own 7 different trailers with electric brakes and every one of them I use slightly different settings. Some work fantastic at 4 and others work just okay at setting 9 or 10.

Bottom line, adjust to YOUR trailer cuz everybody who is giving advice hasn't pulled THAT trailer so doesn't really know what setting will be best. Light electric should be all you need. Probably somewhere in the 5-8 range. If you feel it needs more switch to heavy electric.

To those unable to adjust to a "higher" number:
With a trailer hooked up, simply push the "+" button and watch the settings in your evic. It will increase .5 at a time till a maximum of 10. If it doesn't there is a problem with your truck and you probably should take it to the dealer.
 
A long time ago, and back then, still fighting dealerships, and many other places of business, a friend of mine gave me the nickname of "Black Cloud." Believe me, he couldn't have been more right. If there is anything that can go wrong, I'm usually the guy who ends up with it.

Truck went to the dealer late this afternoon. Parked it, gave them the Key FOB and told them my appt was for 8 A.M. tomorrow and I expected to drive my Jeep there so I could see it up on a rack. Going to give them two days. I did tell the ser. mgr. that if they could not fix "all" of the problems that they say I don't have, having taken the truck to the dealer far far more than three times, I do qualify for the L/Law act and would proceed accordinally. In Oregon the L/Law Act is kinda of weird. You can't demand a new vehicle for things that go wrong unless you can show the problem is or could turn out to be a safety issue. WE all know that the D/Pedal surely is. The other stipulation before you can get a new vehicle is that the dealership has to have the truck on their property for a certain amount of days.

I said it on here before and will say it again. The D/Pedal issue has to be a computer problem due to having so many computers in the darn truck. Computers are basically ran on two numbers ~ zero's (0) and ones (1). When building a computer software program, one may use, let's say 4 0's and two 1's and that is how, in a rough way of speaking, programs are made. IF a 0 or 1 is used out of order, the program may still work but over a period of time the other computers getting information from that program will start to recognize it is a invalid number setting. That could? be applicable with the DP. I'm not a software programmer but do remember that when I was in college. The instructor used a light switch on the wall as an example, rough as it was. When he put the switch up, that meant that he was using a 0. Down would mean a 1. Somewhere in the midst of that I became totally lost. :>) I'm still wondering if one or more fuel injectors may becoming plugged. That would give you a rough idle but not being a diesel mech., don't know what happens when the engine doesn't get enough diesel out of one or more injectors. Again, just grasping at straws and wonder if that would cause a delay in engine power.

My formal claim is opened with Chrysler. However, when I was running on the Dodge 1500 forums, a guy found ALL the phone numbers and e-mail address for the Chrysler big shots. That is going to be my ace in the hole if I get the run around tomorrow. Wil keep you informed.

Tossing something in here for everybody to think about and give me their feedback. Read in the owners manua that these trucks have a "black box," something along the lines of a commerical airline. Basically it states that it is used by the police, if you are in a wreck, to find out from the box, just how fast you were going, did you apply the brakes and if so, how hard and other important information. I am going to ask the Ser. Mgr. if they can pull that black box out and obtain all the information that is stored in it. IF they can, perhaps it will show how many times the engine stalled, how long it stalled, the amount of pressure put to the pedal or the brakes, if one had to avoid being hit or hitting somebody else. If the police can obtain that information the I don't see no reason why the ser. Dept. can't do the same thing. I would have to go back to the manual because I may be wrong, but I think that Chrysler can do the same thing if you are in a wreck and they suspect you were driving improperly. Anyway, I think it's worth a shot in the dark.

THEN when I started the truck this afternoon, was letting it warm up. When I went to go from "P" to "R", that entire section, showing all the gears, lite up in a bright yellow. You didn't have a clue which gear you were in if you didn't know what you were shifting out of and trying to shift into. I then shifted into what I thought was "N" which it was. Yellow lights went out. However, I can now make them go yellow anytime by simply shifting out of "P" and into any gear. My truck has never did this before and there is nothing in the owners manual or the thick manual I ordered from Chrysler. And again, that extremely loud clunking noise is still there. This may be normal but playing with the shifting lever, I can pull it all the way back to shift into any gear OR I can pull it back just an inch or so and it still clunks. So there are indeed two positions you can put the lever into.

Additionally, the dealership is about 15 miles from my house. Truck's fuel gauge was showing full when I started it. By the time I got to the dealership, the needle had moved off the full mark. This has never happened before. It was like I had a diesel leak the way the guage went down so fast. I was driving 55 mph. I'm a "needle freak" and am always watching the fuel gauge, the DEF gauge and any other information.
 
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