Archived trans cooler line leak

[GBobbitt]

I have a leak at one of the quick-disconnects up by the cooler. I have replaced the o-ring inside but it started leaking again within 10 miles. I am thinking about removing the rubber lines and replacing them with rubber lines and just sliding them up over the lock ring on the steel line and clamping them in place. When I did a quick search I found no one who had performed this as a long term repair, only as a temporary repair. Would this not be a better repair than just putting another replacement hose on with another quick-disconnect that will probably start leaking in another few years?

 

[Bob4x4]

You risk the line slipping off if you use regular hose,if that happens on the road you will dump the fluid VERY fast.



Bob

 

[Nate]

Just use a brake line flare tool and put a small flare at the end of the tube so it won't slide off.

 

[GBobbitt]

I replaced both hoses and put a little flare on the line after cutting off the lock ring then slid the hoses on all of the way to the 1st bracket and put 3 clamps on each one. I'm still kind of paranoid about it. Does anyone make aftermarket (preferably braided) lines for these?

 

[dslmacdown]

I would recommend double flaring that line. You don't want the flare edge to cut up the rubber hose and cause a big mess.

 

[JR2]

I don't know about fixxing your problem but last week I had the other end of the hose you talk about come off. It spewed all my transmission fluid in less than 200 yards of driving. The whole side of my truck was covered as well as the back of the truck. The drivers side wheel well is still oily looking. What ever you do to fix it I would make sure its going to hold. I had no idea what happend and the first indication of problems was my truck started sloing down.



I do remember somone saying that you could cut the hard lines and use compression fittings on them, I belive DTT (www.dieseltrans.com) sells a set of lines. If they don't they will be able to tell you the best way to fix the problem for sure.





John

 

[DJAustin]

I replaced all the steel lines on my 95. I used the updated Dodge crossover line with DTT's steel braded hose at the cooler end. I used the Dodge line as it had been updated with flare nuts and fittings instead of the plastic bushings and "paper clips" that were on the ends of my original- so I could put a temp gauge in the factory sensor port. This line is the pressure line from the trans- I replaced the cooler outet line with -8 ( 1/2" ) hydraulic hose. The cooler end of the hose has a female JIC swivel fitting with the other end having a 1/2" male NPT fitting. I screwed an 1/2" hose barb to this end, and doubled clamped a new 1 foot "soft" hose between this and the radiator type heat exchanger on the driver side of the truck behind the grill. I used exactly the same set up coming out of the heat exchanger behind the grill and returning to the trans. (the return side) My hoses were made 8 feet long. I have nice wide smooth bends- but seven feet would do it too. I got my cooler fittings from Dodge- about eight bucks for two- but all other fittings from my local auto parts store ( I could have got the cooler fittings at the store also. ) I also replaced all my coolant hoses at this time. I tow a 7000lb load often, so will change my trans fluid and soft rubber hoses yearly. The hydraulic hose's should last 7- 10 years or more. I use Red Line Synthetic trans fluid meeting Chrylser specs. If you need any further details on this "fix" let me know. DTT gave me the part numpers for the Dodge line and adapter fittings. They are very helpfull. 1-866-504-4002. Check out their web site archives for a lot of good trans info. Trans shifts smooth with no problems after several months in operation.

 

[GBobbitt]

I did not double-flare the lines just a slight single flare to catch at the clamps if the hose were to try to slide off. Didn't have enough room for the flaing equipment I had to use. I also rounded the edge of the flare to keep it from cutting into the inner liner of the hose. I am thinking about taking the lines off and putting a double flare with an inverted flare nut to screw into a barbed fitting but I need to see what is at the trans first at the rear fitting. I have the crossover line with port but don't have it installed yet. Since the rubber hose is crimped on the crossover line how does the DTT braided section work?

Does anybody have pictures of the DTT cooler and lines kit?

DJ, I like your line setup. Any particular reason why you used hydraulic hose instead of something like braided stainless?

 

[DJAustin]

Only because it was readily available at my local hydraulic shop- and most likely cheaper too- The stock rubber hose on my "updated" crossover line was crimped to a swivel fitting- I just unscrewed it at the fitting and screwed in the DTT braided line. I think the DTT line is braded as it is close to turbo heat. The fittings on my trans were both standart NPT (don't remember the size) that I replaced with NPT x flair fitting for my new hose.