Trans Cooler Line Replacement

[llotton]

I plan to replace the leaking quick connect parts of my transmission cooler lines with new aftermarket hose material, which will also eliminate the check ball. To any and all that have done this job do you have any advice on how to make this as simple as possable. I know I have to buy the tool to release the "quick connect" fittings but other than that I would appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance. Larry

 

[LNaugle]

What do u mean hose material? like with hose clamps and hose from napa or something?

 

[llotton]

Sorry I wasn't clear. What I meant is I understand there are different quality hoses available. Also I just didn't know if it would be easier to remove the tire and wheel and the fender liner or if those steps wern't needed. As well I didn't know about how much oil I would need to replace or what. Those sort of questions. Larry

 

[TGVET]

Removing the mentioned parts will make it much easier to work in the confines of the areas needed. e. g. , the heat exchanger. Just BE SURE to handle the lines on the HE very carefully, use two wrench's on removing/tightening the lines preventing any torque or stress to the HE.



Last August, my lower coolant return line burst, I had to make the repairs in a parking lot. In the process of trying to remove the 90deg. hose that was frozen onto the fitting, using angle needle nose pliers, screwdriver, razor knife in the process, I'm now certain applying all that stress to the unit is what eventually caused my HE to fail. You can read back to my other posts with many follow ups. You DO NOT want to go through that, I now need a new transmission otherwise, I'm certain I could have gotten many more miles of service from it.



As far as lines go, if it were me, I'd go to my local hose shop which makes custom lines for many applications and have them fab up the lines and install appropriate compression fittings just as it they were doing it for any type of hydraulic lines. I would have 150 PSI be the minimum for stock trans.

 

[mwilson]

Sorry I wasn't clear. What I meant is I understand there are different quality hoses available. Also I just didn't know if it would be easier to remove the tire and wheel and the fender liner or if those steps wern't needed. As well I didn't know about how much oil I would need to replace or what. Those sort of questions. Larry

Tire off and wheel liner out is the only way to go IMHO. Even then you stretch out some to reach things.

I also pulled the W/Washer Fluid tank to make more room around the quick couplers that you will be releasing.



See this post if you haven't already for a few views. .



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ission-cooler-lines-act-now-regret-later.html



Also more pictures here...



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...8-trans-cooler-lines-chafing-please-read.html



The line change didn't cause much oil to drain but as the truck was due for a fluid change I did it at the same time.

So I am not sure what a simple line change would require, no more than 2 qts. perhaps.



Whatever hose you chose to purchase has to be able to stand 220 degree plus heat, you will be offered some that will only be rated for 150 degrees or so, be careful and fussy.



Mike.

 

[TGVET]

Tire off and wheel liner out is the only way to go IMHO. Even then you stretch out some to reach things.

I also pulled the W/Washer Fluid tank to make more room around the quick couplers that you will be releasing.



See this post if you haven't already for a few views. .



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ission-cooler-lines-act-now-regret-later.html



Also more pictures here...



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...8-trans-cooler-lines-chafing-please-read.html



The line change didn't cause much oil to drain but as the truck was due for a fluid change I did it at the same time.

So I am not sure what a simple line change would require, no more than 2 qts. perhaps.



Whatever hose you chose to purchase has to be able to stand 220 degree plus heat, you will be offered some that will only be rated for 150 degrees or so, be careful and fussy.



Mike.

Good point. I'm going to stop in the shop today and check the ratings on them too.

 

[llotton]

PSI rating, heat range rating and the coolant tank removal are all the things I was wanting to hear about. Thanks to all . Larry

 

[Bigiron]

I just did the lines at the trans cooler under the windshield washer tank. Only removed the inner fender and washer tank. Disconnected the old lines with a disconnect tool. Then with a small tubing cutter I cut the ends off the aluminum lines and installed new transmission line hose 1/2 " hose and doubl clamped both ends. Have driven over a thousand miles pulling a trailer and no problems or leaks yet. I start the truck put it in neutral let it idle for a few seconds and drive off. The dealer wanted two hundred bucks for factory lines and my total bill was less than $20. 00!

 

[MegaJeff]

I hope your clamps hold! I just hate relying on them as that transmission isn't something to risk on a couple $. 30 clamps. I guess I am paranoid after spending $4500 to upgrade my 06 transmission.

 

[sag2]

I hope your clamps hold! I just hate relying on them as that transmission isn't something to risk on a couple $. 30 clamps. I guess I am paranoid after spending $4500 to upgrade my 06 transmission.

If your worried, just add a slight flare to the line. It will never pop off.

 

[Gibbs]

Well, I'm in the process of redoing my transmission cooler lines and ditching the quick disconnects and hose with check ball. I was really curious what kind of pressures the transmission cooler lines will see. I dug around in my 2003 FSM for a while, and starting on page 21-355 are the hydraulic flow schematics for the 48RE. Obviously there is no pressure in the cooling circuit in park (on a stock truck anyway), but even looking through the other schematics, the cooling circuit only sees a maximum of 55 psi. I was glad to see this.



I'm installing 1/2" tube to 3/8" male pipe thread compression adapter fittings on the end of both steel cooler lines that were cut and also on each end of aluminum lines on the cooler. Then I'll screw on a 3/8" female pipe to 1/2" hose barb on each fitting. This may be overly complicated, but I trust it holding better than just slipping the hose over the end of the metal tubing. I originally was going to put a small flare on each end of the metal tubing, but I had a tough time getting an even flare. I'll be securing the hose to the barbs with stainless steel Oetiker Clamps. This way the hose can't squeeze out of the slots in the worm drive band, plus it'll have a 360* seal.



I hope this setup works without leaks...

 

[Gibbs]

Update: I got my truck put back together this afternoon with the aforementioned fittings and some Aeroquip FC-598 hose rated for 302* F and 400 psi. It turned out great and I'm now a huge fan of the Oetiker clamps. I like this setup far better than the factory.

 

[mwilson]

Update: I got my truck put back together this afternoon with the aforementioned fittings and some Aeroquip FC-598 hose rated for 302* F and 400 psi. It turned out great and I'm now a huge fan of the Oetiker clamps. I like this setup far better than the factory.

I bet that came out very nice.

The hose spec looks great and the clamp idea is genius.



I already have the tool from my CV Joint days so I might get some of those clamps as well.



Mike.

 

[TGVET]

Update: I got my truck put back together this afternoon with the aforementioned fittings and some Aeroquip FC-598 hose rated for 302* F and 400 psi. It turned out great and I'm now a huge fan of the Oetiker clamps. I like this setup far better than the factory.

Any photos ??

 

[JJPage]

Any photos ??

DITTO, I would also like to know what an Oetiker clamp looks like...

 

[cerberusiam]

DITTO, I would also like to know what an Oetiker clamp looks like...

The underlined name is a link to a site in his original post, not the bifocal line on your reading glasses. :-laf

I'll be securing the hose to the barbs with stainless steel Oetiker Clamps.

 

[Gibbs]

I already put the fender liner back in, so this is a cell phone pic of one of the connections. I used two 21. 0 mm Oetiker clamps per connection, even though it was murderous overkill--those things clamp TIGHT. I got the clamps and tool from Mcmaster Carr, although you could probably shop around and find them a little cheaper. Nice thing about them is it's usually only 1 day to my house via UPS ground. You might could use some nippers or maybe even dikes to close them, I just like having this tool 'cause it clamps parallel or perpendicular to the hose; and its made in Germany by Knipex so it quality stuff

 

[JJPage]

The underlined name is a link to a site in his original post, not the bifocal line on your reading glasses. :-laf

I have no-line bifocals... :-laf

I already put the fender liner back in, so this is a cell phone pic of one of the connections. I used two 21. 0 mm Oetiker clamps per connection, even though it was murderous overkill--those things clamp TIGHT. I got the clamps and tool from Mcmaster Carr, although you could probably shop around and find them a little cheaper. Nice thing about them is it's usually only 1 day to my house via UPS ground. You might could use some nippers or maybe even dikes to close them, I just like having this tool 'cause it clamps parallel or perpendicular to the hose; and its made in Germany by Knipex so it quality stuff

Thanks Gibbs, those are pretty nice clamps, I have come across them before but only in removal, I always referred them as pita clamps, maybe if I would have had the correct tool.

 

[rscurtis]

They're also commonly used in lawn sprinkler systems.