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trans fluid change ADVISE lpease

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skorski

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the year 2005 first fluid change done at 22,000 with new suncoast valve body and deep dish mag pan and filter. All the fluid taken out and replaced with amsoil syntic. Next fluid change done by me but I only changed what was in the deep dish pan and NO filter at 55,000 mi. Now I have 70,000 . My question is would it be ok to drop the deep dish change the filter and add the 7 or 8 qt. I know changing all the fluid is the ultimate but expensive. :cool:
 
I've done it that way lots of times including about two weeks ago on my Aisin. ATF is a closed system so it doesn't get dirty in use. A good filter removes wear particles and a periodic partial fluid change replenishes the additives.
 
the year 2005 first fluid change done at 22,000 with new suncoast valve body and deep dish mag pan and filter. All the fluid taken out and replaced with amsoil syntic. Next fluid change done by me but I only changed what was in the deep dish pan and NO filter at 55,000 mi. Now I have 70,000 . My question is would it be ok to drop the deep dish change the filter and add the 7 or 8 qt. I know changing all the fluid is the ultimate but expensive. :cool:



It would be ok to drain the MH DD pan (and not remove it or the filter)... The magnet on the drain plug will have most, if not all of the contaminants. The filter is similar to a scotch brite pad and will only catch large pieces... With a DD pan, you will need more like 10-12 qts with just draining it and up to 14 qts if you remove the pan and replace the filter.
 
I'm confused now I thought the deep dish held an additional 3 quarts of fluid and the trans and tq held a total of 17 qts.
 
DD holds an additional 4 qts vs. stock and stock fluid change is approx 6 qts if you do it immediately after shutting down the engine and up to 8 qts if you wait a few days before changing it.



What you need to do is make sure the level is ok before you do anything, then after you drain, you should pour the old stuff into 1 gal milk jugs to see how much came out.



This will get you very close to the refill qty.



The difference between low and high on the dipstick is only 12 oz...
 
Changing just what ATF fluid is in the pan is fine as that is what the factory recommend procedure is (personally I like doing a complete flush though).

As for the filter I highly recommend you change that every time you drop the pan. It is much more than a scotch brite pad as another poster said. It's more like a paper air filter with a little more loft. It is relatively cheap to replace and if it gets restrictive it will lead to low line pressure which could result in slipping clutches and ... (I'll let you guess the rest).

The magnet can only work to attract metal particles (clutch steels) after shutdown when the fluid is still and only what's in the pan, there are other non magnetic particles generated by clutch frictions and bronze from the bearings.

Also the trans in not a closed or sealed system, there is at least one vent hole in it but it is not subjected to blowby or possible fuel dilution like your engine. The single biggest cause of trans fluid stress or breakdown is heat. Depending on how you use or abuse your rig should determine your service interval.
 
To get a more complete fluid change, loosen the 10 valve body mounting bolts about 1 turn each, and let it drain overnight. Retorque the bolts to 100 inch-pounds. Measuring what is drained out is an excellent suggestion for establishing refill capacity.
 
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