Trans line spewing

[TGVET]

Made a 100 mile RT to town and back today and discovered transmission fluid spewing out and all over. The hose almost looks as if it had slice marks. Anyone have a transmission hose fail like this ?

 

[cerberusiam]

Hose failed, it is typical as they age.

 

[LFalconer]

What is a good mileage / time point to replace these trans lines? 2006 with 100K...?

Thanks .Luke

 

[TGVET]

I was told at the dealership it's a typical failure due to flexing and age over time. Say what ? I'm not sure what is flexing since the line is connected to the transmission which is bolted to the engine and is installed between the transmission and the heat exchange which is also bolted to the engine. The line is also attached via a clamp to the other transmission line running to the trans cooler.

The only way I can see any real exaggerated flexing occurring is when the line is disconnected when the transmission has been removed and reinstalled as was with mine twice within a two year period. Other than that, minuscule flexing. I wonder how many other trucks out there of the same age have had this problem excluding the transmission removals.

If one is concerned about "failure from age/mileage", preventative measures taken is best. It's not that difficult to remove and reinstall if you're a self wrencher. Just be sure to use counter force on the heat exchanger fitting so as not to put ANY stress on the heat exchanger or potential catastrophic failure can occur. Use a 1" wrench on the H.E. hex stub and a 19mm for the line fitting hex. Also a 23mm on the transmission hex fitting stub both for removal and install.

 

[Tuesdak]

Inspect hoses for leaks, weeping at the crimps, cracking, blisters, and hardness/softness. Stiff hard hoses have lost their flex and like to leak at the crimps. They get this way from being overheated. Say the hoses is rated at 250 degrees continuous and you hit 300 degrees on a grade: Miles and age just went out the window as the hose is ruined. OEM's don't generally use hose rated for high temps. Visible cracking on the outer hose means replace it!

In our case we went through both 250 and better 300 degree rated aftermarket hoses for an engine oil cooler in under 100k, 1.5 years. (It's a known GM thing where the power and automatic lugging gear selection writes a check the GM cooling systems can't cash.) So time and miles are out the window as something running hot or defective design/manufacture can take a hose out quick.

Inspect hoses at every oil change. You could use the tire age rule of 10 years max life on hoses, but, climate makes a difference as tires here only last 5 years. So I suggest inspection is a better tool.

This includes: Brake hoses, power steering hoses, cooling system hoses, oil cooler hoses...

 

[jgillott]

Had that happen twice on the 04.5. Once it looked almost exactly like yours and the second time it failed at the fitting itself. I ended up putting a third new set on this summer when I replaced the oil pan.

 

[mwilson]

Almost looks like the ends are not correctly "clocked" when the hose is assembled and crimped. That would explain the failure being somewhat diagonal as the hose is twisted slightly when attached to the cooler and transmission.

 

[mwilson]

Or the slight rocking motion of the powertrain twists it a bit every time.

 

[cerberusiam]

It depends on which hose it is if it is moving. The front trans cooler line is a vibration and movement damper as it will twist and break if it is a hard line. The return line has a longer run and the movement is less at the back of the trans. The connections at the front also have a twist movement as they are hard mounted to the engine.

 

[TGVET]

It depends on which hose it is if it is moving. The front trans cooler line is a vibration and movement damper as it will twist and break if it is a hard line. The return line has a longer run and the movement is less at the back of the trans. The connections at the front also have a twist movement as they are hard mounted to the engine.

"Not clocked". I assume you're referring to my picture. And yes, it is not as the end of the line mating to the hose via the crimp is loose and can easily be rotated as well as, pulled in and out of the crimp qhich I did on purpose.

The new line is exactly clocked between the lower heat exchanger fitting and the forward transmission fitting. Question is, how do you get a hose that is rated for higher heat than OE built and, clocked correctly ?

I thought about taking the assembly to my local hydro/hose shop and have them make me one but my local stealership had it in stock for 125.00 and I needed my rig on the road right away.

I will mention again, I do not see how any flexing that line is subjuct to other than expansion and contraction from temps do to the fact it is one with the transmission and heat exchanger.

 

[cerberusiam]

If it is cooler output line then no it won't twist much due to the other rubber portion and the union in it. In that case just a bad spot in the hose, or, you had something sitting in there rubbing on it.

If you have them built out of 300 psi hydraulic hose that would be over kill but you would never blow them. They can do the fittings at the heat exchanger and the trans if you show them what it is, the flaky quick coupler has to go though, don't think that is available from a hose shop.