Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) trans lines -HOLYMOLY! they are expensive!

[RDuncan]

trans lines for a 96-HOLYMOLY!-expensive!!!

just checked with my local dodge dealer and he wants 398. 00 bucks for the replacement lines-thats for everything including fittings ---anybody got a better source?? just a lot of cash for a couple of tubes and hoses!! thanks for lettin' me vent!--rd its a 96 ram 2500clubcab automatic 94000mi :{

 

[Joe G.]

What are you driving? Need at least the year.

 

[SDrake]

While I was dealing with the transmission lines I priced fuel pump, fuel shutoff solenoid, PCM and a few other items at various times shortly after the transmission thing and each time prices were 2, 3 or 4 times what I could get the part for somewhere else. It took a lot of digging though. I read this board a lot and saved a bunch of money and learned a thing or two along the way.



I still am looking for the good cure to the transmission cool lines. But refusing to pay $400 I disconnected the existing lines at the cooler and cut the metal lines between where they were worn to leaking, at the front engine clamp, and the rear engine clamp and installed 1/2" power steering hose with about 6" pushed onto the the metal lines with three clamps on each line. The three clamps are to compensate for the lack of a flare in the line to keep the hose. The guy that rebuilt my transmission agreed that my repair was good. Hose cost $2 a foot. I have a little left over from the 10 feet I bought. I made a clamp to replace the front clamp out of couduit hanger and made it big enough to go around both hoses covered with a with a split a piece of hose.



I have been watching for the voice of better experience and keeping a close eye on my set up but happily the setup is compleetly dry and no sign of the hose slipping off.

 

[Clinton]

Making your own hose lines is the about the only way to avoid the dealer cost. If you go with the hard line replacement from a dealer, skip the flex line coming out of the engine mounted cooler. That line is known to be of poor quality. When I replaced all my lines that flex line started leaking within three months. A braided stainless flex line is available from DTT.

 

[Bob Wagner]

get the lines from Bill Kondolay, great advise too 1 866 504 4002

 

[JKouzez]

i guess its different on the 47re but i paid a little under $300 including labor at my local aamco to replace my leaking lines

 

[6btsmoker]

i do not agree that 3 clamps without a flare is ok. i manage a transmission shop and have seen that type of repair fail,not very pretty. do yourself a favor and put a flare on the line,and then double clamp the rubber hose. i would only use that set up as temp till i got the new lines. just my . 10c.

 

[CEdwards]

If you go the do it your self route, all the connections except to the cooler in the front are pipe threads. There are many different ways to go, power steering hose with flared tubing and hose clamps or hydraulic hose like mine. any way you do it will be better than factory. if you do go with hose with threads they sell fittings and barbs to go from the thread to the hose clamp on the front. not sure how other year models are but mine had a place in one line for the temperature sensor. you can make a tee in your line for there. its probably easiest to just take your lines out so you can see what your working with and go to a hose shop or napa and let someone help you out with figuring out what fittings to use.

 

[DJAustin]

Trans fitting / line leak

On the drivers side of the trans, where the steel line ( the one with the sensor) appears to go into the transmission, the connection between the line and the fitting is very loose, and fluid pumps out when I start the truck and shift out of park. Can anyone shed some light on how this connection between the line and trans fitting was made? I like the idea of replacing the steel lines with hydraulic hoses, but was hoping for some info on on the existing connection set-up before I do. Is there a seal at the end of the line that requires the steel line be replaced along with the fitting, or is it possible to replace only the fitting and seal?

Thanks



95 4x4 Auto

Red Line syn Trans fluid w/ Magtech deep pan

127,000 miles

 

[Joe G.]

The stock line has a flange that fits the plastic fitting that leaks. There are two types of plastic fittings that fit. Both are junk. You can trim the ends of the lines to remove the flanges and install compression fittings or replace the whole mess with hydraulic hose or some other option. If you do trim the end of the line then you have to use a short nipple in the side of the trans because the temp sensor will be against the trans and leak. You can always just remove the temp sensor and jump the connector with a 1K ohm resister.

 

[SDrake]

Mine is a 94,-- here is the scoop for it. The fitting could be replaced if you could get one but Chrysler only sells a redesigned replacement which requires a redesigned line and the ripple effect of all that --- is that you must replace all the lines and fittings or come up with a fitment of your own. There is a seal in the fitting that the tube slides into but I could not find a suitable O ring to replace it and I am not even sure it is an O Ring. I have a couple of spare fittings I bought 8 years ago when one of the other fittings in the system failed. I caught the failure while changing oil. I keep a close eye on the fittings, the little wire clip wears if the right kind of vibration sets up otherwise I suppose it will last forever except the rubber seal will get old and start making a mess.



My temporary fix mentioned in an earlier post is solid because of just exactly how I implemented it (first time since the truck was new that all the fittings are completely dry) but I am going for the hydraulic hose and screw in fittings just to ease my mind about the section I now have with the 6" overlap with multiple clamps. Handily I have old fittings of the two sizes (pipe threads) so that I can get the right fittings with out having to take my truck down before hitting the parts store.



BTW, a 1/2" hose will not go over the flange in the tubing but if you split the hose in quarters (knife into the end cross ways in two perpendicular cuts) about one inch deep or less. These split ends will go over the flange. Then push the hose on as far as you can push, pushing the split ends past the flange and put a clamp on both sides of the flange, one around the split ends and she will not be coming off.



Hope this helps.

 

[DJAustin]

Thanks

Thanks for the info. I just got home with the truck- a co-worker noticed a small puddle under the truck while at work yesterday. I hauled it home today with my trailer and F-350. Wasn't embarrassed a bit- the Ford guys smiled and the Dodge guys looked with mouth hung open... I smiled back at them all- both are good trucks- I'll get her into the garage this evening and start poking around. I hope the fitting on the trans side is a common thread and I can match an Aeroquip or Parker fitting to - and install -8 hydraulic hose. In the mean time, I am comfortable with the hose and clamp fix- though I will still need a compatable threaded fitting and nipple. You would be amazed at the applications manufactures utilize hose and clamps for on the boats I work on- They do fail, but not often- and we have a 5 year replacement policy for all hoses- fuel, hydraulic, coolant etc. . I understand the trans lines are 1/2" which is -8 hose size and understand the fitting reduces down to 1/4" - I plan to also use a -8 (1/2") fitting, which should increase flow, and will change all fittings and hoses- should mildy reduce heat and line pressure - does anyone forsee a problem with this- eleminiting the restriction of the 1/4" fitting? I can't at this time, but I am no expert- so I will think on it also. I'll post part numbers for anything I use for my fix.

 

[holmanrd]

DJAustin

Please let us know if the -8 all the way is gonna work (ie, keeping the needed flow and pressure). If we don't have to neck down to 1/4 that would be great. I work in Aircraft Hardware so I have some ideas on some pretty trick hose replacements. Keep us posted, or if anyone else out there can chime in, it could put an end to dealer prices. Robert

 

[DBentley]

part #s for quality aftermarket line and fittings would be great for us with crappy factory lines that are patched up and hanging on by a thread at the quick connects at the transmission. I would love to have the parts here on the bench before starting. I just refuse to give dodge 300. 00+ for the same pee poor lines I have.

 

[DJAustin]

Replaced steel trans lines with hose's- finally!

I just replaced all the steel lines on my 95. I used the updated Dodge crossover line with DTT's steel braded hose at the cooler end. I used the Dodge line as it had been updated with flare nuts and fittings instead of the plastic bushings and "paper clips" that were on the ends of my original- so I could put a temp gauge in the factory sensor port. This line is the pressure line from the trans- I replaced the cooler outet line with -8 ( 1/2" ) hydraulic hose. The cooler end of the hose has a female JIC swivel fitting with the other end having a 1/2" male NPT fitting. I screwed an 1/2" hose barb to this end, and doubled clamped a new 1 foot "soft" hose between this and the radiator type heat exchanger on the driver side of the truck behind the grill. I used exactly the same set up coming out of the heat exchanger behind the grill and returning to the trans. (the return side) My hoses were made 8 feet long. I have nice wide smooth bends- but seven feet would do it too. I got my cooler fittings from Dodge- about eight bucks for two- but all other fittings from my local auto parts store ( I could have got the cooler fittings at the store also. ) I also replaced all my coolant hoses at this time. I tow a 7000lb load often, so will change my trans fluid and soft rubber hoses yearly. The hydraulic hose's should last 7- 10 years or more. I use Red Line Synthetic trans fluid meeting Chrylser specs. If you need any further details on this "fix" let me know. DTT gave me the part numpers for the Dodge line and adapter fittings. They are very helpfull. 1-866-504-4002. Check out their web site archives for a lot of good trans info. Trans shifts smooth with no problems after 2 weeks in operation.