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While pulling my 5th wheel(19K GCWR), trans occasionally slipped and/or shuddered between 45 and 55 when pulling under load. Dodge dealer could find nothing wrong(surprise!). Truck is an 04 2500 diesel with 48 RE auto and 26K miles. I had them flush the trans as it would have been due at 30K anyway, but fluid looked and smelled fine. Truck has no problems empty. Search function doesn't seem friendly to me, but I'm a newbie. Any ideas? Thanks,

Dieseldumb
 
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Could be the Torque Converter, at that weight, you are maxing out the abilities of the stock trans and converter. The dealer will only be able to simulate the problem when loaded like you posted, I would not recommend you bringing in like that though.....
 
That's what mine did... I had a little more power running through it but it was right in lock up in 4th gear I would step on it a little and the truck would start shaking. Turns out my TC went south along with a couple of other things. Good news is Dodge replaced it under warrenty. Although my truck is getting an after market trans installed as we speak. Oo.
 
What you are experiencing is nothing new, well not to those with an automatic and towing a heavy load. Your description fits the classic signs of early transmission failure. The TC and perhaps a clutch pack are slipping under the strain of the load. Empty it runs just fine, for now anyway. Give the whole thing a few more miles under load and then you will start to feel it slip while UN-loaded. WHY??? Because the Dodge automatic transmission is a week link in the drive line. Yes it is a good and tough transmission for gas engine use, but no matter what Dodge does or says they do, it will never be strong enough for constant high load diesel use. There are many reasons why, wrong stall on the torque converter and not enough friction area (clutch), Low oil pressure system, week clutch packs and bands, the list is almost endless. Yes, there are many aftermarket companies that can take your 46,47,48re and transform it into something that will live and outperform the stock unit. But it is also not cheap, average cost somewhere around 5-6,000. Not a bad price for what you get in re-turn, but a hellof alot of money for someone that just paid 40K for a new truck to cough up. Bottom line is Dodge has had there head up there rears for way to long. Most competitors (Chevy, Ford) have invested the funds necessary to make a modern day automatic work and work very well bolted behind a modern day diesel. The old Dodge automatic that has been around since the 60's is simply out-dated and over stressed in a diesel pick-up. Personally I find the Ford 5-speed auto to be the best HD automatic offered today. It shifts smoothly and works great pulling a jet ski or a 40 foot GN. Dodge is reportedly working on a new and better auto, but then again I have been hearing this for the last 4-5 years.

What can people like you and me do? If your truck is still under warranty, and if you haven't done anything to jeopardies that warranty(power adders), then I suppose you could keep letting Dodge replace the trany as long as they keep doing it. This does nothing for people that need there truck everyday for work or business, and installs little confidence for the vacationers. If your truck is out of warranty, I would strongly suggest going with a aftermarket trany, or selling the truck. Investing money on a Stock trany rebuild, is a pure waste of funds. So is only going half the way on new pieces. Many feel like they can replace the valve body or TC and the problems will go away, wrong! I would suggest total replacement or trade.



One of the best investment anyone can make that owns a automatic diesel truck, is a auxiliary transmission cooler. The cooler the fluid the better. Normally on the open road the trany's stay cool enough to be safe, but in hilly areas and in city or stop and go traffic, the temps go up very quickly, and remain there. When the trany does slip, it creates a huge amount of heat, no surprise friction always causes heat, but slipping parts cause extreme heat. Same goes for when a clutch on a manual tray slips, it takes very little time to destroy a pressure plate and flywheel. Anyone towing should consider a cooler, but anyone towing over 8000lbs it should be considered mandatory. Coolers alone won't make up for all the troubles associated with the Dodge automatics, but they will help them last.
 
KOOPDADDY,

Why should I not bring it to the dealer loaded? I'm a 1000# under Dodge's posted GCWR and under on all axle loads. Actually with my suspension mods I'm the same as a 3500 which would take me to 21K GCWR. Am I missing something? Thanks,

Dieseldumb
 
Dieseldumb said:
KOOPDADDY,

Why should I not bring it to the dealer loaded? I'm a 1000# under Dodge's posted GCWR and under on all axle loads. Actually with my suspension mods I'm the same as a 3500 which would take me to 21K GCWR. Am I missing something? Thanks,

Dieseldumb

I pulled 19,500 GCW with mine till I got another trailer, about 1000 pounds heavier, I now have 110,000 miles, and yes the converter was replaced at about 75,000 miles under an extended warranty. You have to be careful when towing and not let the torque converter lock up with the rpms under about 1800 rpm. It involves shifting in and out of overdrive, I leave it out of overdrive till I get above 65 MPH when towing. My torque converter tries to lock up at about 35 MPH when out of OD so I have to shift back into OD at speeds below 45 to keep torque converter unlocked. Lots of shifting ( might as well have a standard) but it works. Once the TQ has slipped it will just get worse so you need to do what ever is necessary to get the dealer to replace while under warranty. bg
 
Y-not is right with the following ,

"I would strongly suggest going with a aftermarket trany, or selling the truck. "



I had to trade in my immaculate all stock ,99 3500 ctd Auto transmission ,w/35k in 6 years use, garage kept,not a scratch on it etc. Because of that sorry transmissions 2 failures under 27 k miles . Only towed 3 times a year 120miles round trip ,flat ground no hills.



I too had to make that dreaded decision, A- spend major $ on an upgrade or B- trade up to a new 6spd .



Done deal, I WILL NEVER OWN ANOTHER TRUCK WITH AN AUTO transmission AGAIN.
 
Most of the complaints seem to be with earlier than 48 RE Trans. I thought the 48RE solved most of the earlier problems. Is this wrong?
 
Dieseldumb said:
Most of the complaints seem to be with earlier than 48 RE Trans. I thought the 48RE solved most of the earlier problems. Is this wrong?

Yep,

The 48 RE does seem to have a much better track record than my old 47re even with the higher torque numbers the 3 gens have. IMO.
 
Diesel D



I pulled at 21K gcw with a stock 47RE for over 80K with my 99. It sounds like what your trans is doing is normal. If your trying to do a 3rd to O/D to lockup shift with that much weight any stock torque converter will do the same thing mine had the same symptoms when trying a 3rd to O/D shift and then lock up. I also see your running 3:73's which is compounding your problem. You need to do a 3rd to O/D to lockup at 55 MPH plus. Remember that you can run these trucks up to 3K RPM's all day long. Try shifting into O/D at 56 MPH and I'll bet you won't feel the shutter. Now if you are not in O/D and the shutter is happening with the torque converter locked up in 3rd and the motor is in the "sweet spot" 1900-2600 RPM then you are probably sending the trans and the torque converter to an early grave.







Mac :cool:
 
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Cheapest option,...IMO

You can try getting your dealer to ride with you with your rig loaded as you described. They probably won't pay a mechanic to do that, so take the Service Mgr with you. If that doesn't work then consider seriously an Extended Warranty for your drive train. Be sure to shop Extended Warranties as the price is different even if other dealers. Also consider that places like Sears sells Extended Warranties and others. That will take the pressure off you if something should happen and the cost of it will be much less than a fully prepped ATs, DTT or others. If it does go out on you and they put a new transmission in, ... if I were you I'd ask the Service Mgr if while the transmission was out would they install YOUR TC that you could get from the aforementioned transmission aftermarket guys which is much heavier than what the dealer would install and it would save you the added cost of having the transmission pulled later to install one. Then you could install the VB after the dealer gets finished with his rebuild or installing a remanufactured transmission from DCX. The VB doesn't require pulling the transmission and any transmission shop can do that in short order and this way would save you big $$$'s. If your transmission goes out and you do have it covered by warranty or the extended warranty then the big issue is to do the upgrade ASAP as you can literally burn out the OD clutches in a single heavy pull as you described. Pull in TOW mode until you get your transmission upgraded.
 
Thanks for the responses! I do feel like the TC is going South, but proving it is a different matter. I can't duplicate the problem because it is random, but I guess that when the tow truck brings it in (wherever I am) Dodge will be satisfied (especially if its out of warranty). I have a 70K warranty on the drive train which should be enough with the problem starting at 26K (I hope). I was recently bragging that this was the 1st truck I've owned that didn't need warranty work of some kind through 25K (and still doesn't according to Dodge). Guess I'll take my front plate off that my wife got me stating "Love my Dodge" and wait for the inevitable.
 
Why you ask?? Well my dealer just voided my warranty because I cut out my cat and added a torque locker, which wasn't even in the truck... .
 
KOOPDADDY said:
Why you ask?? Well my dealer just voided my warranty because I cut out my cat and added a torque locker, which wasn't even in the truck... .

I'd like to hear the story behind this post.
 
UPDATE: I've begun to notice the shuttering symptom unloaded. At 45-55 going up a grade in OD I have a random shuddering that I still can't duplicate. I feel certain that it's the TC but wonder if the axle or something else might cause it? Bad feeling to not know whether DC will find it or will I get towed first!
 
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Dieseldumb I agree with Macdaddy and others. Can you answer this question - With that load behind doing 45-50mph, did you have the tow-haul setting on(od locked out) or did you have it on the normal setting? Even empty, ANY acceleration below 50mph with the TC locked is extremely hard on the trans and would be considered lugging. If you did it with that much weight behind you, I'm surprised your TC isn't in pieces on the road somewhere. Now the reason you are feeling it empty is as described - once you have slip it only gets worse-fast.



I've never had any issue getting a tech at a variety of dealerships to ride with me to hear/diagnose an issue. I think it's all a matter of how you talk to the service writers. I think people make the mistake of being mad at their truck because it's broken, and taking it out on the service writers. I can't stress enough how much having a good friendly relationship with my service writers has helped me in the past.
 
I agree with LightmanE300 about a friendly relationship with the service writers. I know it's kiss *** but I always ask them where their favorite place is to eat and i'll get them a certificate there. That way they will remember me then next time I am in and also they know that I appreciate there help in the matter. I even had the Juice/attitude on my truck and they still replaced the transmission. If I was a service writer I would be more willing to help out a "friend" then just "some guy". Not saying that is the case here.
 
I use tow/haul when in town or when trans needs to shift out of OD, but I have probably lugged the trans (pulling in fairly flat country) without noticing it. I have a good relationship with the service writer (he was a tech previously-so I would kiss his a** if necessary). From the comments I feel that it is the TC and I just need to be patient (and stay around home), and wait for it to be bad enough for the Tech to see the problem. I pulled the same load with my 01 2500 with 47RE and never had a problem, but such is life! Thanks for the replies.



P. S. The load I was pulling was slightly less than 12K-I gave the total GCVW on my original post.
 
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