tmacc,
Thanks for the response on that, I had a feeling it wasn't a MOPAR item. It would be easy to go and find one once you have the fitting out of the truck. My factory fitting didn't have a check ball, looks more like a check valve.
mikec,
Seems like it should take 1/2 hour by looking at the job, ended up taking around 2 hours with my father-in-law helping out. He is a retired pipe fitter and at almost 80 years old can still outwork most guys I know.
Some things I learned:
It would be easier to replace the line if you do it when you service the transmission fluid and filter. It is harder to work with ATF dripping on you. My truck only has about 15K on it and I don't have my new transmission pan yet. I didn't want to dump $$$. $$ fluid only to do it again in a few months. IRS refund is going to buy some truck parts including MagHytec pan and Amsoil ATF.
Would be a lot easier to do on a lift.
Draw yourself a picture of the exact routing of the existing line before you remove it. I memorized it and forgot it about two seconds after we took it off. Did it go over and under or under and over?
Whoever welded the tank bung on my heat exchanger should do one more and quit! The bung was welded on an angle facing towards the engine block. No big deal when installing the line at the factory, made it a little more difficult in the driveway.
The guy that installs the oil filters must of been transfered. He installed the check valve on my heat exchanger and must have coated it with 1/2 gallon of pipe dope/Loctite. Had to heat it to remove it. A 1/2" impact wrench may have broke it free, it also may have snapped it off. I am without a compressor at this time. The angle of the bung made this a little difficult as it was hard to get a good angle of attack with the socket/ratchet.
I wish DC would have painted my truck as well as they painted the heat exchanger. The black paint/coating was very thick and everywhere.
The angle of the tubing on the hardline was less than ideal at the transmission end as well as the flex line end. If not for the flex part of the line we would have had to adjust the tubing a little. The hardline at the heat exchanger end pointed towards the frame rail.
We had to install the transmission housing end and the heat exchanger end and then wrestle with the lines to make the hard line/flex line connection.
Pick up 2 quarts of ATF +4 before starting. I lost around 1 1/2 quarts doing the job. Had to buy a gallon of MOPAR ATF +4 at the nearest dealer for $26. 00, they didn't have any quarts.
Clean up the area around the heat exchanger fitting, side of the oil pan and frame rail before starting.
Have towels and hand cleaner ready if you are going to do the job without letting the transmission drain.
Dave D
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2001. 5 QC, LB, 4x4, Auto, 3. 54, Everything but Leather, Bright Silver Metallic, ARE K Series, Diprocal EGT, Boost and Autometer transmission Temp(sensor in the line) in an Autometer Dash Pod, ,Westin CPS Platinum Step Bars - Black on Stainless
[This message has been edited by Dave D (edited 03-16-2001). ]