trans temp question/pressur box question

[JRG]

Is there such a thing as "too cold" constant temp?



JRG

 

[Smokin Joes 2500]

Im still a firm beleiver that all you need is a baseline. If your fluid is way too hot the cooler can only cool it so much before it goes back to the pan. So now that you have done your job and keep a close monitor of your guage you see that the temp in your pan is 10-20 deg. higher than normal... . there you have it. I refuse to put the temp sensor inline cause its too simple to just maintain a baseline. Will waste my money on $3. 00 a gallon diesel fuel instead.

 

[CBrabec]

I want to know the second part of your post,EZ setting. what # is safe to run all the time? then for towing?

I agree, I'm currently running it on level 3 w/ tst on 2/2 when towing and sometimes I shut the tst off. Is level 3 ok or should I drop down to 2 or 1?

 

[ACerf]

I tow a 12,400 lb trailer. The most I have ever seen is 178, that was pulling a grade, and that was with an outside temp of 90+. Most of the time driving without the trailer, it will stay around 150-158, that is also with an outside temp in the 90's or more! If it is cooler out it will stay in the 140 range.

I would say that my average overall temp has been about 150.

I might add that I am running a Mag-Hytec transmission pan, which adds 4 more qts to the system. Best money I ever spent! I also added the Mag Diff cover. That adds 2 qts to the rear, another worth while addation if you are towing.

 

[DLeno]

Also, Ive been reading some posts on here and am wondering if it is bad for me to leave my EZ box on level 3 all the time? Is this going to hurt my fuel system?? I think its about time for a non-pressure box :-laf

with regards to the transmission, I'm not the best source. EZ on level 3 is in the region of 50 or 60 HP which is moderate indeed, but it will put additional stress on the TQ and other components of the auto transmission. At this power level, there are few stories of transmission carnage to my knowledge, but just keep in mind that the auto transmission is the weakest link in the drive train.



But Since the original question here regards the fuel system, I can comment in more detail there. the short answer to your question is that I do not think running the EZ on level 3 all the time will hurt anything. the results of my testing suggest that:



1. pressures in the common rail are not excessive at this power level, but do come close to taking up whatever "margin" is there. After experimenting and studying this issue for the last 2 years, I have come to a my own conclusion that the rail itself, even the pressure relief valve, is not really compromised significantly at these pressures. Even on level 4.



2. the low pressure fuel system is also able to keep up with the EZ on level 3 (and even level 4). my experimentations show that the low pressure system is sufficient for approximately 100HP gain at the rear wheels, which is a little beyond the EZ.



3. Injector wear is probably of greater concern than the rail, but at pressures representing only a few percentage points beyond the original design, I do not personally believe there is a danger when pressures are below what EZ on level 3 or 4 would produce. That said, I have seen one autopsy result showing abnormal injector wear, where the truck in question ran with an EZ on level 4. this may be more related to (2) below (nominal rail pressure increase)



My personal opinion, after reviewing numerous pressure modules and studying the rail pressure behavior of all of them using my custom gauge, is that there are TWO factors of interest:



(1) maximum rail pressure, obtained via aggressive pressure fooling to achvieve more than approximately 70-90 horsepower gain at the rear wheels. this causes the rail to run too close to the pressure relief valve set point. this over-uses the valve (which I have come to believe can normally open under severe rail conditions anyway, even stock) and introduces excessive stress to the rail itself. just my opinion here of course. I personally am nervous about using pressure fooling to obtain more than 70-90 HP, but rail pressure increases of this nature are only on the order of 5-8%. no big deal, especially considering that it does not happen very often (WOT only). Interestingly enough, the WOT run itself isn't the problem -- its when you back off suddenly and the pressure in the rail has no place to go



2. aggressive pressure fooling to obtain a fuel economy increase causes a significant increase in nominal rail pressure (quite apart from WOT maximum rail pressure). for example, highway cruising might run at 12-15K rail pressure (stock), while an aggressive pressure box will run at well over 20,000 psi. Such an increase in rail pressure can easily be 50% over stock (say, 12,000 psi to a 18,000), which is perfectly harmless to the rail but puts an extra, constant stress on the injectors.



I find that the EZ on my truck (level 3) produces approximately 30% increase in nominal (cruising) rail pressure and is not what I consider "an aggressive pressure box".



all tests performed on an 03-04 (305HP) truck.

 

[Smokin Joes 2500]

with regards to the transmission, I'm not the best source. EZ on level 3 is in the region of 50 or 60 HP which is moderate indeed, but it will put additional stress on the TQ and other components of the auto transmission. At this power level, there are few stories of transmission carnage to my knowledge, but just keep in mind that the auto transmission is the weakest link in the drive train.



P. S. look at my Sig. I have an '05 which only has 3 levels on the EZ not 4 like on your '04 also my Suncoast parts in the transmission will help (but not completely prevent) any of the transmission carnage you speak of. Especially with a box as weak as the EZ. Im more worried about my injectors than anything. Ive sunk about $5 grand into my truck this year allready and am running low on blow money so I dont want to have to put new nozzles in as Ill be paying for them since I voided my warranty when my truck had 890 miles on it. PLus I ordered a BD X-Power yesterday and will be giving the EZ to Goodwill. Thanks Smokin Joe

 

[Disel Dave]

Automatic Transmission Temperature:



Temperature of the transmission fluid that leaves the torque converter and goes on to the coolers. Again not very exciting be very important to the life of your transmission and or torque converter.





Average temperatures on a stock truck



Idle in neutral or park – 140 to 160

Idle in gear – 160 to 260 depending on how long.

Cruising – 70 mph no trailer 150-170

Cruising – 70 mph with trailer 160-180

Pulling hill no trailer – 180-220

Pulling hill with trailer – 190-280 depending on load and how long a hill, or weather you can pull the hill in lock up or not





Temps will always be higher when out of lock up, because 90% of the heat generated in an automatic transmission is from the shearing of the fluid in the converter. Temps will be lower when in lock up because the input shaft of your transmission is locked to the crankshaft on the engine



thanks to www.dodgedieseldatabase.com

WOW I was seeing 210-220 towing my camper and thought that was high. what does 280* do to the fluid it Must kill it. Im hopeing my new converter will help that, It will be in before the next trip out.

 

[donnier]

Thanks for the info 3grumpy

I believe that there also was a post regarding the EGT temps.

It is the same type of list as appears here for the transmission temps.

Thanks.

 

[ACerf]

In an effort to be very conservative, I run my Edge EZ set at #1! I fiqure that this will give the vehicle better performance without any real effect to the the overall wear factor. I have been doing Oil Samples annually and they have come back with below average wear stats. Of course this may be conculsive of anything related to the EZ tow setting.