trans temp sender location

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Any suggestions for the location of my transmission temperature sender

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96 Ext. Cab,4X4,Auto,73K,stock

 

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front cooler line of the trans, at this location you will see how hot the trans fluid is getting, any other location will not show the fluid temp at its hottest

 

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Originally posted by goerend:
front cooler line of the trans, at this location you will see how hot the trans fluid is getting, any other location will not show the fluid temp at its hottest

I agree,trans cooler line is where I have mine and it gives a true reading of temp,when I am in city traffic I see my temp go up to about 200 degrees.

 

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Not sure of the '96 but my '95s factory temp sender is on the output line pass. side, a few inches from the transmission. I used a brass 3/8" tee with a nipple and installed my new sender with the factory one. Just make sure the senders don't run into each other inside the tee. My new sender was small so this wasn't a problem. The factory sender can't be removed or the OD will not operate correctly.

 

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thanks for the information gentleman

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96 Ext. Cab,4X4,Auto,73K,stock

 

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Has anyone tried using a water temp guage in place of a trans temp guage as long as the sender matches the guage ?? I have a couple of new ones sitting in the garage getting dusty & thought I might put it to good use.

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96,longbed,clubcab,driftwood,custom bumper,K & N Filter, Filter Engineering Remote Fuel Filter & Coolant Filter,Scotty Air,4" from KAT be gone,4" Dynomax race magnum

 

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albacore,you shouldn't have a problem as long as the gauge reads high enough,the sender isn't to long,some water temp senders are longer than oil temp senders,and you don't mind an oil gauge that says water on it. I use a 40# gauge that says oil pressure on it to measure turbo boost,flip a switch and it measures fuel pressure. Works great until someone drives the truck who doesn't know and thinks the oil pres is all over the place when in fact they are seeing the boost.

 

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illflem
I was thinking of doing the same thing with boost/E-brake press. What do you use for a valve, or is your press guage electric? I have a fuel tank solonoid valve that says "60 psi max". I would think this would work.
LarryB

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1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exhaust, 4"BD brake, Mag Hytec rear covr, 85gal fuel, <A HREF="http://www.fostertruck.com/cummins
" TARGET=_blank>www.fostertruck.com/cummins
</A> 80 VW Diesel PU, 86 Samurai w/VW diesel

 

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Larry,I'm useing an electric gauge,mainly because I don't want to bring fuel into the cab. By E-brake pressure I assume you mean exaust manifold pressure. The temps would fry an electric sender pronto. Your idea useing a mechcanical gauge with a solenoid valve should work. The main thing to consider would be the heat,you'd probibly want to run copper or stainless tubing over to the drivers side and hope that the heat disipates before the valve,if it cools enough for the valve it would also be cool enough for an electric sender. I don't know how much back pressure an E-brake generates,but it seems like it could be very high,doesn't seem like much fun to read boost off a 200#gauge. Like I say I don't know,that's a question for the E-brake guys,but with 60# exaust valve springs maybe the pressure isn't all that high. I'd like to find out,anybody know?

 

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My understanding is that 50+-psi is pretty high ex manifold pressure. Does anyone have a BD gauge? What does it read?

I'm thinking My 60psi AutoMeter Blower gauge should work. I agree with you on the steel tubing to isolate the valve from the temp. There won't be any flow through the tube, only pressure so heat should not crawl up the tube too far.

Hey! I can use the e-brake throttle position switch to also switch the solenoid from boost to exh pressure when the e-brake is activated #ad



[This message has been edited by LarryB (edited 09-27-2000). ]

 

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Alright Larry, seems like you've got it!I like the idea of useing the ex brake switch. My only other suggestion would be to isolate or tie down the metal tubing well,these rattleing diesels have a way of wearing holes in anything that moves. You could even use 1/4 hydraulic hose to insulate it where ever it touches anything else. Good luck,like to hear how it comes out.
Bill

 

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illflem,
Previous threads say not good to "stack" two senders in one port, wont give best readings. Have you noticed any difference in factory sender performance? Does OD still turn off in case of transmission overheat and does OD still stay off in winter till transmission warms up? On cold winter day usually takes two miles before mine shifts into OD.
I would like to mount mine like yours, it seems easier and leak-proof compared to in-line tee and compression fittings. What temps. are you getting? Thanks

 

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T4,I haven't had a problem. In the winter the trans has kicked into OD within the same 1/4 mile as always,never had it overheat yet. I'm usually running around 150,highest was 220 with a 1500# load going uphill at 70 mph,I don't tow with my AT. I had the same concerns stacking the senders since putting them togeher in a tee takes them out of the fuild flow,but it was by far the easiest way and it worked. My gauge is digital and responds fast so it must be working right. By the way my trans temp gauge is wired into a triple throw switch,with a flick I can read AT temp,engine oil temp,and when I have time to tap a hole in my intake manifold,intake air temp. Along with my boost gauge,that also measures fuel pressure,and pyro I'm reading 6 temps/pressures with three electric gauges. Keeps the dash clutter down somewhat.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,driftwood,Banks&phscotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)

 

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My 96 doesn't have the factory temp sensor at the front cooler outlet line. Where is it?

 

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They moved it onto the transmission,I thought it was in '97 but it could of been'96.

 

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I am installing an electric gauge for transmission temperature and I decided to heliarc a 3/8" pipe bushing into the rear wall of the trans pan at the right corner. Screw the sender in and connect the wire to the gauge. At trans servicing time, disconnect the wire and unscrew the sender just like you would a drain plug. This measures the fluid temperature in the pan of course, which is the fluid about to be circulated through the transmission.

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92 D250 Auto Trans-Currently stock except for TCI special torque convertor. Now adding 16cm turbo housing, complete 4" exhaust, tachometer, pyrometer, and transmission temperature gauge. Injectors in the near future.
Also have 1984 Volvo D260 with inline 6 diesel made by Volkswagen.

[This message has been edited by bigkid59 (edited 09-29-2000). ]

 

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Bigkid,the transmission experts say that you can burn up a TC before the pan temp will regester dangerous temps. You're better off on the output line to the cooler,but the pan is better than nothing.

 

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Got a isspro ordered for transmission temp. should get it Thurs. 10/19
any more information will be appreciated a whole lot!!!!

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96 CC 4X4 2500 SLT PrimeLoc, GUTTED CAT, Lots of Ham Radio gear, NO IGNITION NOISE!!! Love my diesel!!!

 

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On my '96 there is a 3/8 npt port just off the trans in the front drivers side line. This was unused, so I added a Weatherhead adapter (3/8 to 1/8npt) and screwed in the ISSPRO fitting. Seems to work well, and is in the hottest location. Normal usage seems to be 160°f

 

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Don't see a port on mine, what do I do now?????

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96 CC 4X4 2500 SLT AUTO transmission, PrimeLoc, GUTTED CAT, Lots of Ham Radio gear, NO IGNITION NOISE!!! Love my diesel!!!