2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Transfer Case leaks.

[MFranz]

Recently changed transfer case fluid on my 2001. I overfilled it and have since developed a leak at the rear seal. Its leaking that reddish fluid at the rear output shaft. In addition there seems to be another leak of a different kind on the bottom of the transfer case near the bottom bolt where the case bolts togeather (a dark oily kind). My questions are,If Im going to replace the rear seal on the transfer case should I replace the Extension Housing Bushing at the same time.

The service manual states that you need to have

special tools to do this removal and installation,your thoughts. Regarding the dark oily leak on the bottom of the transfer case,could this be from the transfer case or some other source. Thanks in advance for any Input,this is a great resource and we appreciate your help.

Thanks

Mike

 

[Crowhurst]

Mike, the service manual has to deal with the worst of all possible cases. I just replaced the rear seal when it leaked, and that fixed it. Nick.

 

[Crowhurst]

Mike, you might like to look at this thread, which discusses this issue https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106028&page=2&pp=15

You will see the care needed to get the correct part number for the seal. There are several different numbers. Nick

 

[MFranz]

Transfer case leak.

Thanks Nick. I got the heavy duty one. Part #05086054AA

from Dodge. $50 and that was after Discount. Steve had replied to another post that I had made on this subject.

I appreciate all the input. The power of the Internet,Its great. Whom could Imagine that you could ask a question

and receive answers within minutes from around the Globe.

Thanks Again

Mike

 

[dodge cummins]

how do you replace the seal? my 96 transfer case is also leaking

 

[MFranz]

Transfer case seal.

Here are some of the things that I did for my truck. Its a 2001 3500 4x4.

Raise and support Vehicle onto saftey stands. My tires were just a couple of inches off the ground.

Put transmission in neutral making sure that the parking brake is on.

Use a marker to mark across the the axel pinon yoke and the driveshaft.

Use a marker to outline the center bearing on the frame cross member for reference if so equipped.

Use a marker for reference were the driveshaft yoke enters the transfer case.

Wrap bailing wire or something similar around the driveshaft and tie it to the truck body or frame in three or four different places. This will support the driveshaft after it is detached making it easier to put back togeather.

Remove bolts that attach the center bearing to the support bracket if so equipped. Mine were15mm.

Remove the bolts holding the universal joint clamps to the Pinon yoke.

Slide the slip yoke off of the transmission or transfer case.

Take old seal out. Use of a hammer and an old screwdriver or chisel to tap the old seal out. Tap from front of vehicle towards rear on the outside of the transfer case.

Clean. Use steel wool or emery cloth to clean up any burrs or nicks.

Tap in new seal with weep hole centered on the bottom.

I used a 3 1/2 " PVC fitting to tap in my seal. Not all models are the same.

Install in reverse order.

I tested my truck while it was still on the jack stands. I started it and let it idle in drive and watched the driveshaft

to look for any problems.

Test drove. No leaks so far.

About 3 hrs labor for this slow shade tree mechanic. A real one could do it in less then an hour.

GoodLuck

Mike

 

[Mactruck]

Dumb question (on my part)

Why do you need to mark the driveshaft in line with the yoke?

I've pulled mine off a bunch of times and never lined them up. (or maybe I should have)



I thought there was a slot that prevented you from sliding back on EXCEPT one way.

 

[MFranz]

Transfer case leak

Mac,I dont know. First time Ive done it. Thats what the service manual said to do. Being the first time I wanted to make it right . Maybe someone else can shed light on the subject. I used the marks as a reference in putting things back together.

ShadeTree Mechanic

Mike

 

[Loren]

Dumb question (on my part)

Why do you need to mark the driveshaft in line with the yoke?

I've pulled mine off a bunch of times and never lined them up. (or maybe I should have)



I thought there was a slot that prevented you from sliding back on EXCEPT one way.

Mactruck,



Your driveshaft will slip back together in any position the splines allow. I haven't counted the splines, but that's probably 30 different positions.



The reason to mark the driveshaft is so the u-joints at each end will be in phase. This prevents the acceleration and deceleration of the shaft as it rotates from being different at the input and output ends. This provides smooth transmission of power.



To ensure your driveshaft is in phase, check the u-joint yokes at each end. They should both be pointing the same direction. That is, when the yoke at the front is vertical, the yoke at the back should also be vertical. It's as simple as that.



Loren

 

[Mactruck]

ahhh I see