Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Transfer case noise

[KMott]

For the past few days, i have had a new noise coming from what i think is the transfer case. It has happened once or twice each day along my 50km trip to and from work. Basically its a loud vibration that lasts about 4-5 seconds each time. It howls real loud, but just goes away after a few seconds. Im thinking maybe a bearing in the transfer case?? It seems to be happening more and more often, so sooner or later i think shes gonna blow.

Anyone heard of this? If this is the t-case, i want to upgrade it anyways before the 215 pump goes on, so what would be required to go to a 241DHD?

Thanks in advance for any help.

kevin m.

 

[CumminsPower98]

If it's the T-case going south then its possible the rear bearing retaining snap-ring has failed. See this site for information on the problem and a cheap upgrade: Transfer case saver, don't leave home without it, DIY and save money!. As far as upgrading I think all you need is the rear output slip yoke to match the HD case as it's larger.

 

[DieselNasty]

To know if your snap ring on the output shaft has failed take off your driveshaft and grab the shaft in the t-case with some channel locks and try to push it in and out. My 241 DLD started making some bad noises and I checked and the shaft moved in and out like an inch! The snap ring broke in 3 pieces so I put in a transfer case saver.

 

[KMott]

Thanks for the great info, i printed off the info from the link. Im going to pull the rear driveshaft off and see what i find, hopefully its that simple.

Thanks agian

 

[SRath]

KMott, You're going to run into the same issues I did with my '96 when you go to upgrade to a 241DHD. I'm upgrading to an NV5600 and want to upgrade from my 241DLD while I'm at it.



The problems I found were:

1) Just finding a good used NP241DHD for an affordable price. I have seen nothing for under $550 to $700 and would have had to pay an additional $100 to $150 for shipping on those.

2) That used one must be from a '94 to '97 (I believe) or you will lose your speedo sender. This makes your search MUCH harder and any t-case that old will also need rebuilt for peace of mind.



Then tldiesel opened my eyes to what I never dreamed possible: I can do even better (in my opinion) than a NV241DHD or even a NV271! I can actually install a bomb-proof NP205, cast iron, gear drive, t-case in my truck for the same or less money!



So far, I have aquired a Ford driver-side-drop NP205 which cost me $100 and an 80 mile round trip to the salvage yard that had it. My lil' Subaru work/beater gets @ 40mpg, so add $6 for gas.

A complete rebuild kit for it is under $150 (bearings, seals, gaskets, misc. small parts).



A bolt-in hall-effect electronic sender to replace the mechanical speedo unit was $20 on ebay. I will likely need to spend $75 for an SGI-5 interface unit from Dakota Digital to match the signal of that sender to my Dodge speedo, though, unless i got real lucky. I don't know what ppm the Dodge speedo requires, but the SGI-5 can handle it.



The expensive part is yet to come: If I cannot find a rare 1st gen Dodge NP205 29-spline input shaft/gear, 6-bolt round-at-both-ends adapter (if it really exists at all), and the coupling sleeve, I will need to order Advance Adapter's conversion kit for installing an NV4500 in a Ford with an NP205. That kit, unfortunately, is $414. All it is is a spacer/adapter, gaskets, and a 29-spline female input/31-spline male output spud shaft. But a doggone good kit all the same!



When finished, I will have a totally cast iron, geardriven powertrain for under $700!



Personally, I prefer aluminum cases and drive chains on my dirtbikes, not my trucks. I know the NP241DHD and NP271 have proven to be extremely tough, but, besides the price for them, I'm just old-school.



This is just another t-case conversion option which you will not read too much about here; and I don't know why given the relative simplicity and strength you gain. . ?



Edit: I forgot to mention that I will lose the vacuum operated CAD, and will need to either convert to lockouts (my preference) or at least install a Posi-Lock cable actuator. The Posi-Lock is another $175. Lockout/hub conversion is $1000 to $2000 depending on who's and how complete (inner shafts). But either method eliminates CAD weak link in the current system and is worth doing imo even without a t-case upgrade. The lockout/hub conversion also eliminates the unitized hub/bearing and really beefs up that Dodge Dana 60 and it's Dana 44-sized shafts. A vacuum switch would also do the trick, but leaves me with the CAD and it's problems.

 

[Oil Burner]

Kevin,



Mine made the same noises. My snap ring broke also on my 241DLD. Any time I hit a bump or got on the skinny pedal it made the grinding noise.



Anyway, I put a brand new retaining ring on after 3 days of these symptoms and my t-case grenaded in my driveway about 2 weeks later. I guess I did more internal damage than I thought.



I got a used t-case and now run the t-case saver mentioned above!!!!!!!! Knock on wood, no problems since then.



good luck.



Jason