Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Transmission cooler lines

[bjarp]

I have a 1996 extended cab dually with 135,000 miles. It is stock except for a trans rebuild at 90,000. I put a shift kit and a high performance torque converter in at that time. I remember several years ago some articles about the cooler lines comming apart and loosing the trans fluid. I have not worried about it until now but with the miles getting up there and I am thinking about adding a tst torque plate so I was wondering what is the best fix for the cooler line problem? I pull a fith wheel trailer quite a bit of the time.

 

[abranz]

Go to dealer and buy the upgraded lines and fittings for the trans and cooler. They fit like they should.

I've got a set for sale

Tony

 

[bigdaddydieseldan]

Put the new transmission cooler lines on as soon as you can after all better safe then sorry

 

[jtwcummins]

The line problem is the factory unit clips were nylon, plastic, and would let go as transmission got hot towing. There are factory replacements with steel spring clips and that is the way to go. If you look where the lines connect at the cooler and see a small ring of plastic replace them. The clips are used for quick release of the lines.

 

[Joe G.]

Power mods have nothing to do with the cooler lines problem. The quick connectors just give it up and fail regardless of any mods. They also rub together where they cross in front of the transmission pan. That can cause a leak too. I replaced all my metal lines with hydraulic hose. There is very little pressure in the cooler lines so any hydraulic hose that can stand hot oil will work with barbed fittings. I have no leaks or other problems with cooler lines and connectors since I changed to hydraulic hose.

 

[WilsonF]

Power mods have nothing to do with the cooler lines problem. The quick connectors just give it up and fail regardless of any mods. They also rub together where they cross in front of the transmission pan. That can cause a leak too. I replaced all my metal lines with hydraulic hose. There is very little pressure in the cooler lines so any hydraulic hose that can stand hot oil will work with barbed fittings. I have no leaks or other problems with cooler lines and connectors since I changed to hydraulic hose.

Joe, How did you tie your new hoses in to the old hoses coming from the cooler? Or did you take the new ones all the way to cooler? I am ready to do this myself. A clamp had worn through, cut out the bad spot and put on a compression fitting, it leaked too. :{

 

[Joe G.]

I removed the old hoses so there are no hose to hose joints. That is the hardest part of the job because there is no room to get your hands in there. I also did not cross over at the transmission with one of the hoses so I have a hose on each side of the engine. The hose that goes to the cooler under the manifold has to cross over, but the other one does not.

 

[bjarp]

abranz

How much do you want for the set of cooler lines you have for sale? My 96 is a 3500 2WD dually. Will the set you have fit my truck? Bill Arp

 

[WilsonF]

I have been looking at other threads on using Hyd. hose inplace of the tubing. Some of them are saying that the fittings that thread into the transmission are a straight pipe thread, not tapered, went to NAPA today to get them and got the 1,000 yard stare. Went to a transmission shop and he said that he uses tapered brass fittings in the transmission. Can someone help me here, if it takes the non-tapered (NPSM) where do you get them? Or is it safe to use the brass fitting w/pipe thread?
Someone needs to help the boy.

 

[Joe G.]

Brass fittings with normal NPT threads is what I use.

 

[WilsonF]

Thanks Joe.

 

[RMidgett]

Hi Joe,
I've been researching replacing the cooler lines on my '96 Ram 2500 CTD and found your posts around May 10th 2008. My lines have rubbed together enough to leak just ahead of the oil pan as is prone to happen.
I like the idea of using hydraulic hose for the job, and I see in the posts you successfully used brass hose barbs at the transmission. Can you say what inside diameter hose you used, and if that hose fits well enough over the stock cooler lines with standard hose clamps, or are other parts needed to make the connection at the cooler?

 

[JMcCoy]

I too had my lines rub together, creating a leak. I first bought new lines from Auto Zone. Since they couldn't get both lines I needed, I went to the dealer. The ones at the dealer felt like they were much better qualiy. I purchased all the lines from the dealer and returned the one line to Auto Zone. I wrapped the tubs with rubber hose anywhere they touched. It has been three years and so far so good. Good luck.

 

[LandShark]

I also replaced all the metal lines with 1/2" transmission rated hose from NAPA. Did the same thing that JoeG did (at his suggestion): ran a line up each side of the engine to the front cooler. Front cooler is a bit of a pain to get to, but it can be done without removing anything major (OK, maybe a little skin). No fittings needed up front. Just slip the hose over the metal tubes coming from the cooler.

I used all AN style fittings from Summit. Did all this about 30,000 miles ago and all is fine.

 

[Texis]

I did the hydraulic hose thing as well. Cut the metal lines and used 1/2" compression x SAE hose fittings and 3000psi hyd hose, not for the pressure, but for the wall thickness. No issues after the hyd hoses went on (several years ago).



I'd had no less than 4 pin holes in the OEM tubing caused by the lines rubbing. Biggest problem area on mine was on the drivers side, near the engine mount. One hole left me stranded at 11:00 PM, at a filling station in the middle of nowhere... that was enough to cause me to take drastic measures.