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transmission Fluid Change

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Dodge Cummins Wannabe

Dealer service is a waste of money!

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Okay, is there any way to ge the fuild out of the torque converter with out paying out the ying yang?



I realize this cryptic question may get some wide responses but I don't want to pull the transmission??????????



If there is a machine to pump it out what's the name and will the dealer do it. I can't believe I'm actually contemplating going to the dealer for more than parts!:confused: :mad:
 
nothing to it

I can't rember who told me, but I heard it here. After draining the pan loosen the valve body bolts, and allow it to drain for a while. I got 10 1/2 qts. this way. Be sure to retorque the valve body bolts properly.



Fireman
 
Hold on fellas there is an easier way. First take the pan off and change the filter, next put the pan back on and fill trans back up to full mark with new fluid. then take one trans cooler line off at radiator, (make sure you have a hand for this next step to avoid a mess) Have someone start vehicle and shut back off immediately. If fluid came out of the line hook that line back up and remove the other one. If fluid came out of the cooler you've got the right one (this way you flush the old fluid out of the cooler too) Use a piece of rubber hose to direct the fluid coming out of the cooler into a drain pan ( so you don't make a mess) Start engine and let run for about 1 minute. Shut off and add another 1 or 2 quarts of trans fluid to trans. Start engine again and let run until fluid looks clean or the flow slows down. If clean, hook the cooler line back up and top off fluid level. If the flow slowed way down add more fluid to trans then continue with flushing. There now you're done. Sorry about the long story, but that's the cheepest, best and easiest way there is. DO NOT loosen the valve body, there are tiny balls about the size of bb's above it and they must be in certain locations, if one falls out and you don't see it or rolls to the wrong spot, you won't know until it's too late.
 
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On a 47RE TorqueFlite transmission the rear cooler line on the transmission is the return line. There are NO loose check balls in this VB when you loosen it.
 
Thansk for the info. One question though.



Don't you run a high risk of draining the fulid out of a transmission that's running. Do you run it then shut it down and the fluid continues to run?



It sounds like you would need a lot of transmission fluid on hand to do it this way. Still cheaper than the local shop though.



Thanks for the help :p TDR, still the best dam reference manual I ever purchased:D :D !
 
Do it yourself so you know it's done right !!





Loosening the valve body bolts is fine,don't worry about losing anything,just drop it an 1/8" and the fluid will drain out. Then retorque the bolts.



LBrock stated how to flush the convertor and lines,and Joe G haqd the right location to do it.



You don't want to run it to long,or run the trans dry,just enough to pump the old fluid out of the convertor and lines\coolers. It will require a few more quarts,but you want to get it all right ?Have someone else sitting in the truck,and you watch the cooler return line. You can possibly damage something if the trans is run dry,so just do it 20 secs at a time. Then shut it off,top up trans,and continue until fluid coming out looks bright red and clean. That will get 99% of it.
 
transmission drain

I posted a similar question a couple of months ago. the response was, "jack up the front end as high as possible, (use jack stand etc. to make sure safe and stable), drop the pan and let drain over night, (good 8 - 10 hours) and most of the fluid should drain. post on cooler, will also flush the cooler and lines, but be very carefull since running without fluid can damage transmission.



Quick oikl change outfit uses a pump, off the cooler lines, one end sucks the fluid, the other pumps clean fluid back in other side. had this done on my '97 gasser reasonable cost, but could get real expensive if considering amsoil or other synthetic transmission fluid.
 
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