Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) transmission fluid line replacement

[dustoff]

well i am ready to replace the transmission fluid line going to the cooler due to the fittings having a mega leak. i have given quite a bit of thought to going with a good stainless braided hydrolic line versus the replacement assembly from d/c. has anyone made this switch with hydrolic line and if so how did you do the "T" so the trans temp sensor can be used as part of the line? comments are welcome. TIA.

 

[illflem]

You can use a short piece of hydraulic line from the trans with a 3/8'' male pipe fitting pressed on it, screw a tee onto this then continue on.



In my opinion SS line is an overkill, regular hydraulic line is tough stuff and is good for around 3000 psi and 300°, a heck of a lot more than your transmission will ever see.

 

[LeeMac]

I just installed new o. m. e. lines from D. T. T. they are great,they come with all the fittings. Plus you get a braided stainless steel hose that goes under the heat exchanger and they were $150. less than my dealer wanted. D. T. T. toll free# 866-504-4002



good luck Lee

p. s. I also had to change the O-ring on the dip stick tube.

 

[RJ2]

What is the procedure . Is there just one press on and the rest screw clamps. Is the tee method better than the sender in the maghytek? Thanks RJ

 

[1dslram]

I replaced the line to the cooler with the new DC unit, and junked the heat exchanger. I added a second cooler beside the trans under the truck. Both coolers have 160* bypass units and electric fans. Before I could get over 260* in traffic stop and go, now the highest I have seen is 220*.

Bruce

 

[dustoff]

thanks for thr replies guys, and you are right Bill it is definately overkill. however i can have the lines fabricated for about a third of the cost of the OEM assembly and put this thing to rest. . does anyone by chance know the actual psi on those lines and the I. D. if its in the service manual i guess i overlooked it. thanks again.

 

[RJ2]

I have read in the past and it seemed it was hose and screw clamps and no need for fittings. My under bed cooler is just screw clamps. what is this fabrication all about.

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by RJ2

What is the procedure . Is there just one press on and the rest screw clamps. Is the tee method better than the sender in the maghytek? Thanks RJ

If you are talking about putting the OEM sensor in the Mag-Hytec pan it will take a long time to warm the oil enough for the sensor to allow the trans to shift into overdrive. That's why it's in the output line on RH trannies and the in the interior of the trans on REs.



If you want to add an additional sender for an aftermarket gauge the middle test port passenger side is the same temp as the cooler output line on '94 &'95 RH trannies and is the correct thread for most senders.



I've never had much luck with hose clamping hydraulic hose, always seeped. Think the internal steel braid prevents a hose clamp from cinching down enough.

 

[RJ2]

Has anyone got a list of lengths and fittings needed

for going to the hydraulic shop. Maybe even pictures of a set of lines all done. Would the middle test port be more accurate than the Maghytek port?Mine stays around 140 unless pulling a trailer than it will go up a bit.

 

[illflem]

RJ, taking the temp in the pan is pretty much useless, you can reach damaging temps long before the gauge moves. The middle test port only works on '94 or '95 trucks, not your '97. Your best bet is a output to the cooler line for a '94 or '95 that has a port for the probe built in. You can also buy a tee kit from Blue Chip diesel, 888-628-7373, to install in your stock line.