transmission gurus I NEED help!!! LONG!!!

[CSnyder]

Hey guys my whole entire ordeal started back o around the first of August last year when I slipped my clutch in my 2000. I had Amianthus help me do a clutch the following weekend and I was also having some hard shifting experiences at the same time I slipped the clutch. We inspected the transmission that day when we installed the new clutch and didnt find anything wrong but perhaps some worn synchros. A week later I had to pull my transmission again because it would not shift anymore unless I shifted my transfer into nuetral and so therefore I replaced the transmission with a reman at 188,xxx miles. I went thru my 5 star ******* to get the reman from a supposed 5 star rebuilder. For 2 weeks the transmission worked great and then crapped out again so I pulled it out and got an exchange free of charge under my one year warranty. Well that transmission lasted another 2 or 3 weeks and also crapped out so once again I pulled it out and exchanged it free of charge. Then again the week before X-mas it went out once again and I raised HELL. They told me too bad we will give you and exchange but thats it. So I changed it out on X-mas Eve and all was good until last Thursday when I started off to IRP. Keep in mind I lost my wife the first week of January this year and I havent hardly driven the truck since... maybe 7000 miles. I left home and headed towards IRP and just outside of Madison, WI I started hearing a rattle which I was positive was a rod bearing so I killed it and coasted off the road and called a wrecker to get me home. Ok so when I get back home I want to run it in the garage before it gets totally cooled off and when I start it up I dont hear the rattle until I let out the clutch... hmmm. so now I think its the clutch so I ordered a new one and installed it and before putting in my transmission I decided to pull my top cover for a look see. THE BOTTOM OF THE CASING IS FULL OF METAL, 2 BROKEN GEARS, FRONT INPUT BEARING IS GONE, AND REAR SEAL LEAKED OUT 2 QUARTS OF FLUID. I have been paying for the fresh fluids each time one of their remans has went bad and now I AM ANGRY! I have also done the labor each time and I swear I could do this with my eyes closed now. So this afternoon my ******* parts man asks me when did I buy the original transmission and I told him the middle of August last year. I asked him why and he says for warranty reasons. I flat out told him I think it is BS that my warranty doesnt start over each time I replace it since they apparently dont know what the heck they are doing. Im so angry I could just spit nails right now and I want to call these SOB's and tell them personally what I think of their remans but I need some expert advice on what I really should do. Thanks for listening and reading my rant and ANY info is appreciated!



Chris

 

[NVR FNSH]

NV4500 or NV5600? Pics would be helpful. Have you had any problems with the clutch hydraulics or pilot bearing?



Brian

 

[JoshPeters]

Sorry to hear about all your trouble Chris. Aron told us about the "knock" that you were hearing. We all were hoping it wasn't the engine! Have you thought about finding a 6spd to drop in?



JP

 

[bmoeller]

That really sucks Chris. What a bunch of BS. Have you checked the runout on the flywheel?

NV4500 or NV5600?

He has a 4500, IIRC.

 

[KBennett]

I had a friend with a 4-speed Pontiac that kept replacing transmissions and they finally realized it was the pilot bearing. I don't know if the Dodges have a pilot bearing or not but it may be the root of your problem.

 

[Dieselnut59]

I would definately check the pilot bearing. Not sure how similar they are, but my 1996 had a good pilot bearing when I replaced the clutch. Had to replace the clutch twice on my 1998 work truck and both times the pilot bearing had failed, ruining the clutch hub. Installed a 13" South Bend CON/OFE clutch with the flywheel machined to accept a sealed ball bearing. No more problems since... .

If you hold the clutch pedal down at a stop sign/redlight or while revving the engine, it is a definate pilot bearing killer. and could be the root of your problem.

 

[CSnyder]

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I had my own suspicions on the pilot bearing myself but it checked out fine and and I replaced it each time the transmission has been out with the needle bearing style. Ive also checked the run out on the flywheel and it checks good. Im just beginning to think these guys selling reman trannies are only fixing what was broke in the transmission when they get the exchanges and not checking out everything else because it seems to be a different problem each time they go out on me. I suppose they just clean them up, replace whats broke and call it a reman transmission. I guess Im in the wrong business because for the 1500 bucks I paid them I could have bought each individual part and rebuilt it myself better than a new one. Ive considered swapping in a 6 speed but for what the conversion would cost I might just as well go over to a Goerand auto and have something that will last. I have also heard too many horror stories about 6 speed synchros. I told the rebuilders that Im fed up and if I have any more troubles Im likely to go postal on them so maybe they will get serious about a true rebuild this time. I took the transmission personally to them and the owner only stacks up to about 1/3 my size and I looked him in the eyes all crazy when I told him. And most likely I will go off the deep end if they sell me junk again. Thanks a bunch guys, Chris

 

[Scot]

Drag out the dial indicator and make sure the the bellhousing is square and the hole is not off center.

 

[CSnyder]

Scot, I did take it off and had the machine shop look it over good after I cleaned it up good. Im pretty sure its just the rebuilders problem because my factory transmission held together just fine until 188,xxx miles when the fifth gear shift collar broke in half. I sure wish I would have just replaced that myself instead of buying the "rebuilt" one.



Chris