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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) transmission help

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) My turn...

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Electrical noise filter

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ok, if I went to an edge juice, mach 4's, and a larger turbo; what kind of trans upgrade would I need (99 auto).





I know I'd go suncoast/ats/dtt hd trans and torque converter, but would I need billet shafts?





Do it once and do it right, but do you think it's necessary?
 
I run a manual, but I can tell you once to turn the first screw uder the hood and realize how easy it is to get power from these mills you will go back for more and more. I began with exhaust, intake and a dr performance box. Look at my sig to see what I am running now. And I am already shopping for a head and cam. I would say spend the big bucks and get the beefiest one you can. Worst comes to worst, it will just last forever.
 
I'm pretty good about going to a upper mid level type platform and sticking with that. That's probably 450hp or so (which I won't use 99. 9% of the time) and I'll never spend more money on this truck. The billet shafts are like 2k, and I'd really rather not spend that.
 
sgoeing said:
I'm pretty good about going to a upper mid level type platform and sticking with that. That's probably 450hp or so (which I won't use 99. 9% of the time) and I'll never spend more money on this truck. The billet shafts are like 2k, and I'd really rather not spend that.





Then why the question. :confused: :confused:
 
OL Ratlr said:
Then why the question. :confused: :confused:

b/c I don't know whether I need them at that power level or not. I'll rarely use all of the power, but I KNOW I will occasionally, and I really don't have a concept of what kind of beef I need for this engine.





I understand putting a mildly built 700r4 behind my moderate 350. I understand putting a TH400 behind my 454. I don't understand what I need in the way of 47/48re's with my CTD at that power level.
 
You won't need the intermediate or tail shaft, but I recomend the input shaft and flexplate. IF for some reason you decide to do a brake stand or drag race or something then you could break the input shaft or flexplate from the shock. I would recommend doing them rather than the risk of breaking one later. Replacing a broken input shaft is a pretty involved job. Also, a broken flexplate may ruin your converter. Cheap insurance.
 
At least replace the input shaft. I have had good look with my flexplate, I do have one that I am putting it later. Give Dave Goerend a call. I think he acutally sells a reinfoced stocker that might work for you.
 
Thanks Diesel Nut and zstroken. Thats' quite informative. I have a DTT dealer that I like pretty close, so I'll probably go that route, but I was looking at the pricing and just couldn't decide whether it would be worth it to drop the money on all the extras or not.



I think I'll probably just go with the trans, converter, flexplate and billet input when I get to it. It sounds like that's going to serve me fine.
 
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