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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) transmission problem

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I'm having a probelm with my transmission, auto of course, it slips in 3rd and in 4th gears. I know it slips in 3rd because I turned of the overdrive off and the same stuff happened. It seams to happen between 35 or 40 to about 65 or 70. It slips up about 100rpm then drops back down then it do the same thing over and over. It doesn't really happen much when I'm accelerating or decelerating just when I am at a steady cruise. I read about someone getting new batteries and it fixed a problem he was having with his transmission. Could this actually fix a transmission problem? Any answers would help.



The other question is going to seem dumb, but here it goes anyway when I read the dip stick for the transmission one side(the marked side) reads a little over max but the other side reads low. If I flip it then the marked side reads low and the other side reads over max. Which side do I use to check the level?



I thought that maybe the level was low so I added more fluid. Didn't work so started taking some out about a quart at a time to three quarts taking a test drive every quart and nothing seemed to work.



For some background info I changed the fluid to amsoil about 6000 miles ago and didn't have any problems till about a couple of days ago. About 2 weeks ago I went on about a 1000 mile trip to Birmingham from New Orleans towing a Jeep. The truck has 61000 miles on it. Also I haven't done any engine mods except an AFE intake.



Thanks to all

Kenneth
 
I'll jump in first.



What you are experiencing is most likely the converter clutch slipping. It could be the front clutch which is third and is also applied in od.



I had a 95 that had some upgrades in the trans and it would still slip the con-clutch. The converter was a generic modified for tighter stall.

A good valvebody man may be able to buy you some time but the bottom line is , it needs to come apart and to be upgraded.





THere are more issues than just a converter as some will advise.

Just by replacing the converter as some shops advise and you will find the need to remove the trans in a few miles again.



I am not an expert but have been down your road a few times and have learned this the hard way. And , yes I am ready to take my near stock auto out to correct and improve the factory design.
 
fluid check, etc.

First, when checking fluid, go by lower reading side of stick. Always check in neutral, just a good habit. Set parking brake.

As to the problem you are having, it may be converter clutch hunting. You didn't state year model. You may be able to clean TPS, or move TPS wire out of loom and separate from others, some years had a reflash that helped with TCC hunting. The reflash applied to '99 mostly. HTH

James

DTT builder/installer

near Dallas
 
Are you sure the transmission is slipping or is the TC locking and unlocking which is known to happen in these electronic controled vehicles. There is a flash for the PCM and or ECM from your dealer if this is the case. A simple fix for intermittant locking and unlocking.



Ron
 
Opps it is a 99'. How would you tell if it is the TC unlocking and locking as compared to the transmission slipping? Also if I do need the reflash how much are we looking at or do you feel it will be covered buy the dealer? Where would I find the build date of the truck?
 
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If you hold your foot on the brake just enough that the brake lights will come it will prevent the converter from locking.







Originally posted by kennethh

Opps it is a 99'. How would you tell if it is the TC unlocking and locking as compared to the transmission slipping? Also if I do need the reflash how much are we looking at or do you feel it will be covered buy the dealer? Where would I find the build date of the truck?
 
Don't waste your money on the reflash. My dealer said that they have reflashed 6 trucks and none were helped. They don't want to do it anymore. The problem is caused by voltage fluctuations to the lockup controller from the pcm. These fluctuations could be caused by a number of sources-batteries, alternator, lift pump, injector pump, etc. Any electrical source could cause it and some people have removed the lock up controller wire from the harness and kept it apart from the other wires helped somewhat. I fixed 90% of my voltage spikes by cleaning the tiny grounding pins on the ecm/pcm plugins behind the air cleaner on the firewall. Look for a new product to be out soon to completely eliminate the voltage spikes and improve trans performance. :D
 
I put in new batteries Champion XLT at Sam's for $99 each. And reset the APPS and all seems well. I still plan on having the reflash done. How much should this cost?

Thanks Guys

Kenneth
 
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