There's a doohicky called the TV(Throttle Valve) cable. I'm not sure exactly how it works, but you can adjust it to fine tune your shift points.
Sun Coast says to make sure it is being FULLY activated by sliding the cable housing all the way to the rear via the adjuster, then having someone stand on the go pedal and check for full activation at the transmission. Bend tab at transmission to get full travel there.
When adjusted like this you'll have MAX TV, and on the Pro Loc, it's rather harsh. Then you only have one way to adjust. Simply slip the housing forward a 1/8 inch or so at a time to find what you like.
The TV cable runs from the side of the transmission up to the throttle/cruise/TV bracket thing and then clips onto a peg. Slip it off the peg for the initial adjustment. It adjust where the housing goes through the bracket. Push on the square side opposite the round hickey. It's spring loaded and when pushed will allow the housing to slide fore and aft.
I knew absolutely nothing of this adjustment until I got the paperwork on my Pro Loc transmission. It'll take some fiddling to get it right.
I think that will help, but I may be ALL WET on this AUTO transmission deal. I'm more of a BOX man.
BOOST--your fuel is gradually cut back by the ECM after 2700 R's. You can rev higher, but the reduced fuel flow will cut back the boost and heat produced after 2700. A "race" or "drag" upgrade to a UFM or Comp allows fueling to continue into the higher R's. THAT I'm pretty sure about--but I've been wrong before.
