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Hey Guys,



I thought my Torque Converter was headed for Christmas Vacation and it was confirmed today. My question is, if I have to change out the TC and the truck has 11,0000 miles on it, should I also look into upgrading the transmission??? The truck is a 2004 3500 4x4 dually.



And as far as determining which transmission to go with, I'm sure that will be fun with the new rules but I guess I understand.
 
At a minimum, a shift kit and replace the reaction rings on the pump hub. Depends on how hard you want to play whether you put billet parts in. :)
 
Dodge has the worst converters,the more power you add the worst it gets, I went to a full race -competion full billet trans converter & flex plate The way I look at it, you only live once! 1994 4X4 2500 12 valve Keeps up with the traffic Thanks to Old Man Bob 4X4 & Pablo
 
Wow

Wow this site has really changed, I remember a couple of years ago when I was a member and having transmission issues I was flooded with help. Now I get 2 responses, and when searching this site in an attempt to find out what people have to say about the different transmissions out there I can't find anything.



I am sorry to see that the personal attacks have changed the rules so much that this site is no longer a source of information.
 
If replacing the T/C, then upgrade the V/B to match. W/ 110,000 miles on it. A mild rebuild kit also (depending on the transmission use). If you keeped up on maintenace & didn't abuse the transmission. You'll be fine w/ what I mentioned.



Suncoast, Goerand, BD, ATS, DTT to name a wide range of repitable transmission parts to choose from (there are a couple more out there). I have a BD T/C & V/B and works flawless.
 
Hey Guys,



I thought my Torque Converter was headed for Christmas Vacation and it was confirmed today. My question is, if I have to change out the TC and the truck has 11,0000 miles on it, should I also look into upgrading the transmission??? The truck is a 2004 3500 4x4 dually.



And as far as determining which transmission to go with, I'm sure that will be fun with the new rules but I guess I understand.



fire8033



You need to give us more info on what you plan to do with the truck and how much you are willing to spend. If you are planning on bombing at some point, then the answer you will get will be different than if you plan on keeping it stock.



Remember too that an auto trans R&R can be way beyond any shade tree mechanics abilities due to special training and tools so you will most likely be paying someone to do it for you... a TC swap is approx $1000 to $1500 depending on single disk or triple disk while an "upgraded" trans will be in the $5000 to $6000 range.



Pick your shop wisely, interview them and ask lots of questions. The good shops will come shining thru.



Also if you do a search on "48RE rebuild", you should be able to find lots of threads on the info you seek.



Good luck.

Louis



Good l
 
Simply stated with 110K rounds complete is my recommendation, the the TC/VB will put additional stress on components that are close to needing replacement. . the risk is just not worth it, not to mention the worry involved in the future status.
 
I agree with T West, half the battle of an overhaul is the R+R. If it was mine I would do a complete overhaul and maybe some upgrading. But it really depends on its history of use (or abuse) and service (or lack of) and future plans for use. Since you're doing the R+R already I would open it up and at least do new clutches in the front retainer (third gear).
 
Hey Guys,



I thought my Torque Converter was headed for Christmas Vacation and it was confirmed today. My question is, if I have to change out the TC and the truck has 11,0000 miles on it, should I also look into upgrading the transmission??? The truck is a 2004 3500 4x4 dually.



And as far as determining which transmission to go with, I'm sure that will be fun with the new rules but I guess I understand.

What new rules are you talking about? Are we being censored on this forum now too?
 
fire8033





Remember too that an auto trans R&R can be way beyond any shade tree mechanics abilities due to special training and tools so you will most likely be paying someone to do it for you... Louis



Good l



I perhaps naively assumed that I would someday take the 48RE out of my truck for a rebuild or swap with a "built" transmission. What special tools, skills and knowledge are required to remove and replace these transmissions? Like many on this forum, I am willing to do the dirty work on things that are not too "high tech. " I'd rather put my money into the transmission's internals, instead of paying someone to be, no disrespect intended, a parts changer. My experience is indeed as a shade tree mechanic. If I can R&R a Turbo 400 or C-6, why is a 48RE so challenging? Thanks.
 
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Ditto cerberusiam, nothing special about the R+R. You can do it, we can help.

Even the rebuild takes only a few specialty tools, mainly for the overdrive.
 
Wow this site has really changed, I remember a couple of years ago when I was a member and having transmission issues I was flooded with help. Now I get 2 responses, and when searching this site in an attempt to find out what people have to say about the different transmissions out there I can't find anything.



I am sorry to see that the personal attacks have changed the rules so much that this site is no longer a source of information.





my DTT warranty was voided because i posted on here about problems with there many times rebuilt tranmission.
 
Thanks for all the reply's. I was happy with my last transmission purchase, however after the purchase I called to ask questions and it seemed like I was bothering them so I have been looking at other vendors and I think I will be going with Dave and/or ATS. Thanks again for the help guys.
 
Thanks for all the reply's. I was happy with my last transmission purchase, however after the purchase I called to ask questions and it seemed like I was bothering them so I have been looking at other vendors and I think I will be going with Dave and/or ATS. Thanks again for the help guys.



I hear ATS has doubled their warranty to 300k miles. Seems like you can't go wrong with that. They would be my preference in case you couldn't tell. :-laf
 
Ditto cerberusiam, nothing special about the R+R. You can do it, we can help.



Even the rebuild takes only a few specialty tools, mainly for the overdrive.



Thanks guys, that's what I thought.



On another transmission topic, any idea if a mod has evolved for my 2004. 5 truck that would allow installation of an exhaust brake? I think it all changed for the better a year or so later, but I gather that my 48RE has a TC lock-up issue or other restriction that makes it impossible or harmful to apply deceleration loads via the drivetrain.



- Rich
 
Thanks guys, that's what I thought.



On another transmission topic, any idea if a mod has evolved for my 2004. 5 truck that would allow installation of an exhaust brake? I think it all changed for the better a year or so later, but I gather that my 48RE has a TC lock-up issue or other restriction that makes it impossible or harmful to apply deceleration loads via the drivetrain.



- Rich



Your fine with an EB on your truck, better than the the 05's even. The EB should include a controller to handle lockup and it will work fine on your truck. All the pieces in your trans are the same as the later trucks sans the TV motor for shifting. Lots of EB's on your year of trucks and they work fine.
 
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...tatus.html?highlight=exhaust+brake+validation

This should link to the thread on the progress of exhaust brake validation.

In a nutshell there was one internal thrust washer (#7 if memory serves me) that needed a coating added like the others already had. Very minor change. Yours most likely has it already and if it didn't I wouldn't worry. It would get updated on a regular rebuild.

ATS makes a lockup controller to work with or without an exhaust brake. I researched the Pac Brake and it does not come with a torque converter controller per say. I'm not sure what their strategy was for lockup.
 
ATS makes a lockup controller to work with or without an exhaust brake. I researched the Pac Brake and it does not come with a torque converter controller per say. I'm not sure what their strategy was for lockup.



This is correct and I have run this controller for years. It will connect to the E brake as well and when ever the torque converter is locked, provide ground to the solenoid. When the TC unlocks it will shut off the e brake so as not to create heat in the converter. The only thing you should know is that if you don't have the ATS valve body you cant get lock up in 1st or 2nd. If you do have the ATS valve body you can manually pull it down into 2nd and 1st as low as 15 mph. Coming down steep hills with sharp switchbacks it works AWESOME.

:D
 
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