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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) transmission Questions

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Do you have to change the TC if you are going to turn up the fuel,If so which one??How about a shift kit???Any help will be appreciated. Thank you Eric
 
You can add power without a better fluid coupling converter but you will find it is like a boat in the water.

Also you can't change the stall speed or slip of a converter with a valve body.

Even a stock truck shows GREAT improvement with the converter.

A shift kit is the entry level of trans mods, a vb from a pro is better.

It really is a question of how much power are you going to??

It is commonly known that DTT has the tightest fluid coupling. Other companies use a less expensive method to lower the stall speed but can't seem to get it as tight.

Ride in them both--a loose conv. and then a good tight one if you are in doubt before you buy.

More power needs tighter converter and hight pressure vb.
 
I'd argue with what fox said but there's been enough of that. Ride in or better yet, drive a truck with a tight converter (or drive a few different ones) and then weigh you decision based on the variables.
 
What parts of the country do you live in Eric? If you live close to central Iowa you could drive mine. There's a big difference between a stock and modified transmission.

Brian
 
All of the trans venders have better than stock. I have DTT stuff and love it. The ATS guys are equaly happy with theirs. Goerend customers are happy too. Call or contact them all and test drive other members trks if you can. Then make your decision. None of them are cheap but nothing worthwhile ever is.



Good luck with who ever you choose.
 
I put a torque plate on my 95 at 112K and figured I would wait for transmission problems to show up before "tightening" up the transmission. It has 195K on it now and still shifts the same. The slip is aggravating compared to the 98 and 2000 CTD's I drive, but when it pulls or accelerates in lock up it will give you a rush! I would do the plate and expect to need the transmission mods sooner or later.
 
If you want to use the rpm your motor makes more effeciently get a DTT TC so you can go somewhere, it makes the shift from non-lockup to lockup seem almost non-existant compared to a stock TC. I have the 91% and I love it, have had it for a long time. You will want to make other mods pretty soon tooo!!
 
bbovenmyer I'm from Pittsburgh Pa. I plan on overhauling the stock trans. and add a new TC. I probably won't do anything too crazy now other than sliding the plate forward and tie the waste gate open and what not. I'm very new to diesels i'm taking over my dad's since he passed. I would like to do it right so I don't have to do it again in the future. . I just figured there was a certain TC and shift kit you'all used. Can you guys narrow it down more?? Thanks a million Eric
 
TCI Convertors

Is there anyone here running a TCI convertor that Jeg's highperformance offers for towing?



If there is , I'd greatly appretiate any of your replys on how it performs compared to stock.



Thanks a bunch:)
 
I run a Goerend Brothers TC, the DTT has aready been mentioned There are ATS, BD and others. Do a search on automatic transmission, there are several hours of reading. Better yet, call the vendors on this site and talk to them. Ask specific questions and if you hear genaric answers, pass and call another.



I'd steer clear of vendors that only sell parts and don't design and install them. I'd also avoid places without significant diesel experience.
 
Yes Extreme 1

I've called TCI and talked too a Tech person. They say that I'll see big improvment over the stock convertor, but also said that, depending on the axle ratio. Like the difference betwween a 4:10 and 3:54 gear can have a diffrerent effect. I have 3:54s.



Another thing that they said was that the stall speed should be 300 to 400 lower than a stock convertor. Does this sound good? I know it's got to. compaird to what I'm experencing.



The main reason I'm asking for everyones oppion is about the axle ratio variances, and how they re-act in everyday driving.
 
Enough of the transmission wars!



I'd call several of the top venders. I chose ATS because of their great stator (fluid coupling) and their bullet-proof TripleLok TC. It won't slip under high HP and monster Torque. More than enough for my needs.



Guys with DTT or Goerends are equally happy with their respective set-ups.



Call all the transmission Professionals and find people you are comfortable with. ATS is in Denver, but they have affiliate shops all over the country. If you want to call them, their number is 800-949-6002
 
I posted this before. Since I am also MOPAR guy I have bought two TCI converters in the past and both were problems.

The low stall from them was not correctly machined at the base of the snout and ruined the front seal. Sent it back at my cost and and I had to pay the trans shop twice to install one converter.

Then 5,000 miles later the clutch was slipping.



My advice, if you want to save money by buying cheap, plan on spending it again!!!
 
fox

Did the convertor seem to have a lower stall improvment over stock? How did you end up paying double for there mistake.



The problem I'm having is that it doesn't matter if you rev it too Redline, 2150 rpms, or 1800 rpms, you still get the same reaction and pickup too speed.



The transmission since rebuild has improved. It shifts firmer and more positive than it used to through all the gears.



All I think I need is a different convertor
 
The converter did stall lower maybe 300-400 rpm. it did really help day to day driving.



I ordered the converter and received it --my cost.

had my shop install it, problem occured and called them they insisted that I return it at my cost. said they would review the situation, and fix it.

They sent it back and I had my shop install it. So there is the 2nd install cost.

Then I made several attemps to get they to reimburse me for thier mistake. No reply to calls to me so I decided to pass the message on to freinds.
 
fox

Don't you think it's possible that the shop you used , may have scard the seal in the process of installation. I've seen this before where they would put the convertor in and let the weight of it hang there while trying to butt the the bell housing to the engine, and get the bolts lined up, besides how gritty parts can get. Cleannest is #1



You said that the lockup clutch was slipping also, within 5000 miles of use. :( How much HP are you putting out.



I really don't plan on having more than what a #5 plate 255/650 has to offer for everyday driving. I feel that this combo that I have now has more than enough power to do what I want, even if I had a transmission to handle 500HP.
 
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