Transmission Rebuild/New Transmission

[Boaring1961]

On a recent two week elk hunting trip I lost second gear on day number two in my 2005 48re. I was able to continue the hunt though without second gear. Now I need to decide how I want to rebuild it.

My truck is completely stock (and will stay that way) and I'm looking to rebuild it to be a bit stronger and extremely reliable. I tow occasionally and it's always less than 10k lbs. I'm looking for advice from TDR members that can recommend specific components I should consider during the rebuild. This includes suggestions on leaving certain items stock if there's no benefit to replacing them.

If anyone can make suggestions on specific parts (not just makes like ATS or Goerend) I should consider in the rebuild I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

 

[cerberusiam]

Shift kit, you choice on which one as they all seem to work pretty well. Raybestos GPz's are probably the top clutch for diesel applications and they now have the sets for everything except the OD directs. Raybestos HE's clutches are also a good choice for diesel transmissions. A good updated seal kit, if you get a Raybestos 48RE high performance rebuild kit with GPz clutches that has all the good clutches, seals, and gaskets. What I am using in mine after it ate itself.

No leak TCS front and rear billet servos and billet accumulator are a must, fixes the built in OE leaks and tendencies to jam the rear servo.

Depending on how many miles you might need thrust washer kit and bushing kit, all pretty much the same bought from reputable place like Goerends or Blumenthals or Cascade Transmission.

Highly advise you replace the sprag in the rear of the main case and examine the OD sprag closely also. They take a beating behind a diesel and when they go it is messy. The main sprag in mine disintegrated into hash just short of 300k, that seems about the lifetime of what stock parts will hold. Putting a 16 roller fully caged bolt in sprag back in and drilling the case for more lube to rear drum and sprag. If you don't use it hard and stock power just the stock one is probably ok but replace it and drill the case for better lube.

Replace the OD piston support with the newer update one, it has better design and lube capabilities.

With the TC spend the $$ for quality. Highly recommend a Goer end 900/400 single disk for your usage. It will really make a difference in part throttle operation and coupled with a good high performance build it feels so much tighter and really puts the power to the ground.

Beyond that you can get into billet drums, billet apply pistons, more clutches, all manner of billet shafts, etc., but, if stay with stock power and infrequent less than max towing they are just bling, and they cost a LOT of $$ bling. If you stay with a single disk TC you don't even need a billet input shaft, the stock one is heavy enough for most uses.

 

[Boaring1961]

Cerb,

Thanks for your comments. I was really hoping you'd chime in on this.

Would you also put in a new valve body or stick with the stock one and just go the shift kit route? I was considering the Goerend valve body for the rebuild. Also, I've decided to go with Goerend on all the other items I need like their master rebuild kit, their single disc 17ss torque converter, etc.

 

[cerberusiam]

VB's are expensive, I am cheap. Shift kits are less than $100, a VB is $400 or better but if you don't want to attempt the shift kit then a VB is a good choice.

 

[Boaring1961]

I ended up going with Goerend's master rebuild kit (http://goerend.com/goerend-48re-gt2-master-overhaul-kit-2003-5-2007/) and their single disc 15SS torque converter (http://goerend.com/goerend-single-disc-torque-converter-5-9l-cummins-1994-2007/). I had a Transgo shift kit installed a couple of years ago and my transmission guy thinks it will work fine with these Goerend parts. If it doesn't then I'll be getting a new Goerend valve body after the rebuild is done. I went with a single disc torque converter since I only tow a few times a year and when I do it's always less than 6-7k lbs. I did go with the slightly lower stall with the 15SS to give me power to the wheels quicker.

If I can get another 60k miles I'll be happy as I'll likely sell it in the next 3-4 years anyway.

 

[Boaring1961]

Got my truck back with the rebuilt transmission. It drives and shifts like it had in the past. Can't really tell a difference simply driving around town. I'm guessing that's because I had the Transgo shift installed a couple of years ago and I kept the same valve body. However, where I do notice a difference is when I hold the brakes and give it some throttle. It'll now do a brake stand without hesitation. It'll be interesting to see how it tows.

The other thing I noticed, and I could be off on this, but if I punch it off the line or while driving I don't get any black smoke out of the tail pipe like I use to. Could a transmission rebuild with a high quality torque converter have anything to do with this?

 

[cerberusiam]

Stock tuning you should not ever see smoke. Baby it around for a while then punch it, you will probably see black from the soot build up. That is all you should ever see out of a stock tuned engine in good working order.