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I'm having a hard time finding posts on "how to" do the 30K transmission service for the 48RE. Can anyone point me in the right direction (or let me know which issue of the register to find it in)? I may just pay to get it done ($130), but if it isn't too messy and difficult I may give it a shot myself.

Thanks.
 
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I had a drain and refill at around 10k for a drill and tap for my sending unit and gauges. Then another drain and refill/ filter change at 25k for my Mag-Hytec install. At 30k I was torn on a "real service" from the dealer and I opted for a presurized fluid change, no drop of the pan and filter change. I noticed a big difference in shifts and TQ lock up, more than I thought I would with already having two drains on it already. I highly recomend a full service from your dealer. sEE yA...
 
What's the opinion on whether to get a pressurized service at 23K miles or just a drain? I pull a 10K fver on occasion.
 
I just drained and refilled my 48re for the first time at 30k miles. The pan magnet was covered with a layer of fine metal dust, and there was also traces of metal dust between the filter and valve body. None of this normal debris would have been cleaned out by doing just a flush. Total cost was $30 for the 7 quarts of Valvoline ATF+4 at VatoZone, plus $15 for the Mopar filter.

I'm not a big believer in flushes after having read posts by the resident transmission expert on another forum. All he recommends is to drain the fluid in the pan, replace the filter, and then refill every 30k. He said unless a flush procedure is done correctly (which is rare, and would include dropping the pan to replace the filter), that flushing an automatic transmission can actually do more harm than good.

On edit: Also, I pour in one bottle of LubeGard with every transmission fluid change (the black bottle).

http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/trans_atf_hfm.html
 
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There are no shortcuts. Pull the pan and change the filter. Flushing is only an add hype money making scheme that will only serve to distribute the residue mentioned

in the above post. If it is within your means, get an aftermarket pan with a drain plug

or at least add one to the stock pan so as to make the job less messy the next time.
 
You can change all the fluid and the filter by doing this:



*Remove pan, change filter, reinstall pan

*Add 6 quarts new fluid

*Remove rear line at transmission, attach a hose to it and place into bucket

*Start engine and idle in neutral till the flow slows, and shut off engine

*Add 6 quarts new fluid and repeat one more time

*Add 4 quarts and reconnect the line this time

*Run engine in neutral and add fluid as needed at the dip stick to proper level



The rear line is the input to the pan so taking it out of the loop will pump old fluid into the bucket. The pick-up/filter in the pan is the input flow to the transmission so clean fluid is then used to push the old fluid out.
 
Whomever the "Trans" expert is is full of BUNK. The EXCHANGE/Flush system is the BEST thing to happen to a auto trans since its invention. Handled,sold literaly hundereds if not more to fleets and the general public. Hard usage changing the filter is fine but these new filters will go thousands of miles past that. Neighbor on his 05 dually just did the filter at 90k no more or less then what was described. It had flushs at 30 and 60k. Filter and flush at 90k. Just did the filter for the FIRST time on my 2000 Mercury Gran Marquis with 90k. Filter and pan had hardly a thing in it. Did a FLUSH at 30k with Amsoil full syn. and nothing again until 90k. Dodge FLEET owners I deldt with over the years said the FLUSH machine DRASTICALLY reduced overhauls/failure rate on their 47re's. I could go on and on but the exchage unit is the next best thing since sliced bread in the REAL WORLD.
 
Matt,



Thanks for the easy steps. I had changed my fluid and filter at 30k and wanted to flush all of the fluid out but was unsure which line to remove. I am at 52k and will be doing another filter and fluid change and will flush the transmission removing the rear line and running clean fluid thru it. I had read somewhere else to move the shifter thru the gears so all of the paths in the valve body get the clean fluid. Any truth to that step?



Thanks, Jeff
 
DPKetchum said:
Whomever the "Trans" expert is is full of BUNK. The EXCHANGE/Flush system is the BEST thing to happen to a auto trans since its invention. Handled,sold literaly hundereds if not more to fleets and the general public. Hard usage changing the filter is fine but these new filters will go thousands of miles past that. Neighbor on his 05 dually just did the filter at 90k no more or less then what was described. It had flushs at 30 and 60k. Filter and flush at 90k. Just did the filter for the FIRST time on my 2000 Mercury Gran Marquis with 90k. Filter and pan had hardly a thing in it. Did a FLUSH at 30k with Amsoil full syn. and nothing again until 90k. Dodge FLEET owners I deldt with over the years said the FLUSH machine DRASTICALLY reduced overhauls/failure rate on their 47re's. I could go on and on but the exchage unit is the next best thing since sliced bread in the REAL WORLD.

Apparently I don't live in the "Real World". I stand corrected.



http://dieselram.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=39;t=000016#000019








.
 
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JPereira said:
I had read somewhere else to move the shifter thru the gears so all of the paths in the valve body get the clean fluid. Any truth to that step?
Can't answer that but IMO thats a little over anal. The fluid pumps out of that line pretty fast so you will empty the clean fluid through the trans and into the converter quickly and have to shut off and refill again.
 
There are two sides to the flush machine that I see.



1) Many lube shops push the service to generate more income rather than recommend it when its needed. They will compare your fluid on the stick with brand new fluid to show you the color difference. This kind of practice has earned them the "wallet flusher" name that has turned off many consumers with good reason so I agree with how many feel about it.



2) The flush or better name- "fluid exchange" is really a better service than emptying the pan and changing the filter because it gets all the fluid out. The filter media is not real fine like an engine oil filter nor in a canister that holds yet more dirty fluid.

It's easy to see that running the same filter with all new fluid is better maintenance than changing the filter and only 4 to 6 quarts out of 12 or more in the system.



The machine we use at work is a Wynns unit and it measures how much fluid the transmissions pump is dumping, matches it and meters the same amount back into the system for a continuous loop until you have exchanged the systems capacity.



If the filter is clogged or restricted then other trouble is brewing IMO, yet the best way to see whats going on is to remove it and take a look.
 
Wardog said:
What's the opinion on whether to get a pressurized service at 23K miles or just a drain? I pull a 10K fver on occasion.



My dealership pushes the pressurized backflush method but I have them open the pan and replace the filter as part of the drain and refill. I think this is the best way for the first service even if you go with the pressurized service later on. While they are in there they adjust the bands too.
 
The system I'm familier with is not pressurized. Its a exchange with the vehicles trans in gear. Out goes ALL the old fliud and IN goes the new.
 
This is my 2nd. CTD. I pull a 26' trailer a lot in the Sierra Nevada mountains out here. It is my opinion only that it is worth it to do the job right. Do not economize in the wrong direction. 15K is my schedule for transmission service for a towing truck. Sure, one may go longer but its a nice feeling to be old fashioned sometimes. I change the filter at every transmission oil change. My opinion only.
 
I,m in total agreement with Mat400 ! His method is without question the only foolproof way to remove most all of the old fluid without dispersing contaminants

from the pan.

I realize that there are folks out there who take the " if it aint broke, don't fix it" approach and never change fluids, filters, or do any absolutely necessitated maintenance and have very few problems in not doing so, but I need the peace of

mind that comes from knowing I put forth the effort to try and do something right.

I still think flushing without first removing the pan and changing the filter is a JOKE

and as MATT400 said more of a wallet flusher than a transmission flusher!
 
If you changed your ATF on a normal schedule and the fluid is fine, I don't see why you would need a "flush". I do mine every 15,000 miles.
 
Well its kinda like changing oil. Only change HALF of it. Filters are good for MANY MANY miles. Leave the pan ALONE if at all possable. The TRANS does not have combustion blow by products like a engine. Of course all of you lay people whom NEVER worked or handled lots of vehicles in a LARGE busy shop always seem to know better. I did it for my career for 25 plus years and in one shop we had two flush machines that stayed busy every day. Enough so to wear out the fittings a few times a year. I've seen the PROOF of how much better and LONGER auto trans stay alive using these methods. Changing the FILTER every time is the BIG rip off to the consumer. Not the other way around. Lots of units these days the filter is only replace on major overhaul.
 
DPKetchum said:
Well its kinda like changing oil. Only change HALF of it. Filters are good for MANY MANY miles. Leave the pan ALONE if at all possable. The TRANS does not have combustion blow by products like a engine. Of course all of you lay people whom NEVER worked or handled lots of vehicles in a LARGE busy shop always seem to know better. I did it for my career for 25 plus years and in one shop we had two flush machines that stayed busy every day. Enough so to wear out the fittings a few times a year. I've seen the PROOF of how much better and LONGER auto trans stay alive using these methods. Changing the FILTER every time is the BIG rip off to the consumer. Not the other way around. Lots of units these days the filter is only replace on major overhaul.





One of the things I like about this site is the amount and quality of information and sometimes disinformation that people with a lot of experience share with the rest of us "lay people". Quite a few issues re: maintenance are based on a combination of both fact and opinion. That's the way it is in the "real world". Who's facts and who's opinions are the best is a matter for us to make our minds up about. That's why second opinions in the medical field are so valuable to use an example. It would be interesting though, to have you respond to Tim Holt over at Dieselram.com re: his opinion on this issue.



http://dieselram.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=39;t=000016#000019



He's an experienced transmission mechanic, too, and his opinion on this subject is the polar opposite of yours.

Thanks to all of you who have responded to my question. I'm learning a lot and am close to making a decision on which way to go.
 
6 years of using a fliud exchange machine's. Any GOOD shop has one. Kinda like a UP to DATE alignment machine. Only time on a trans sercice I have had comments of better shifting,torque convertor shudder on lock up reduced or gone and on FLEETS and MAIL CARRIERS(rural routes) the proof was in the pudding. The amount of MAJOR trans failures GREATLY reduced. Even some with hardended seal(morning sickness)that it cured or helped for another years or so. 12 hours a day 5 and 6 days a week with 35 techs vehicle after vehicle. On others with the pan hanging on side ways and werid angles it was a god send on pan leaks and rechecks. Only changed the filter on these at 90k etc.
 
DPKetchum said:
6 years of using a fliud exchange machine's. Any GOOD shop has one. Kinda like a UP to DATE alignment machine. Only time on a trans sercice I have had comments of better shifting,torque convertor shudder on lock up reduced or gone and on FLEETS and MAIL CARRIERS(rural routes) the proof was in the pudding. The amount of MAJOR trans failures GREATLY reduced. Even some with hardended seal(morning sickness)that it cured or helped for another years or so. 12 hours a day 5 and 6 days a week with 35 techs vehicle after vehicle. On others with the pan hanging on side ways and werid angles it was a god send on pan leaks and rechecks. Only changed the filter on these at 90k etc.



Well, rather than over analyze this, I think we'd all agree that regular service is most important. Whether dropping the pan versus a flush is better is probably subjective, and I doubt a true scientific study has been done. To do one would require millions of miles of testing done on vehicles that have been carefully maintained, with that maintenance well documented.



I've used the flush method and old method and all I can say is I've yet to do a transmission. OTOH, I haven't taken a transmission beyond 150K miles. Still, I think 150,000 miles is pretty good service from a transmission that is often used to pull a pretty heavy RV.
 
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