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Transmission service

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Check engine codes came up

resetting "Low Coolant" dash message

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Did your pan come with a port for a sensor? Or did you use one of the add on kits that threads on like an add a drain kit?
John, When I added my temp gage back in 2009 there was not a lot of options that I could fine. I also wanted to run extra fluid the trans plus the option of having an AL fin cover sounded good to me. So, I installed a MAG-Hytec AL deep dish transmission pan which added 3 qts of fluid. The pan has a magnetic drain plug and a rear port for a temp probe.

The drain plug makes for easier servicing to allow most of the fluid to be removed before dropping the pan to change both filters.
 
John, When I added my temp gage back in 2009 there was not a lot of options that I could fine. I also wanted to run extra fluid the trans plus the option of having an AL fin cover sounded good to me. So, I installed a MAG-Hytec AL deep dish transmission pan which added 3 qts of fluid. The pan has a magnetic drain plug and a rear port for a temp probe.

The drain plug makes for easier servicing to allow most of the fluid to be removed before dropping the pan to change both filters.

Yes, you'll have much better luck with a OE port than an added compression port for a gauge. I wouldn't expect anything on the MH cover to leak.
 
I completed the project yesterday. I did use the method of disconnecting the return line and running the truck. It worked well. I’ve never done it that way before because of the thought of running the pump dry. I’m a heavy equipment diesel mechanic and running any pump dry just doesn’t sit right. Anyway I did find that the previous owner had it serviced in 2021 according to the date on the spin on filter. Speaking of the spin on filter NAPA does not carry that filter. There’s no cross for it. They have the pump filter and gasket but no spin on. Had to get a CarQuest spin on Doing it as I did I used 11 quarts of automatic transmission fluid to refill. No I did not install a drain plug or a port for an additional trans temp gauge. I’m perfectly fine with the trans temp that is displayed on my dashboard even with it just being a tradesman truck.


Good job knowing all your old fluid is removed. Nice everyone is being nice about it. Wish I could do the same with my AISIN.
 
My truck only has about the miles, but I got a scare one day; shifted into reverse after startup and nothing happened. (long delay before engaging/moving) Somebody said it sounded like the torque converter drained and the fluid and filters should be replaced.

Seeing that there was no drain plug, I ordered a new pan with drain plug installed. It was pretty cheap (not as cheap as installing a plug) but easy, and it will make subsequent fluid changes much less messy.

Amazon product ASIN B07FZ6F5ZK
 
So far the plug that I install hasn't dripped! Thinking that on the next trans service, should pull out the scratch start TIG and weld in a bung. Have a couple 3/8" laying around to fit the bill. It's a big plus to have that drain plug to help with the mess of not dealing with pan full of fluid while laying on your back! Changing the fluids out help with the longevity of our trucks. Quality fluid and parts are the best way without having to repeat the repairs. Enjoy these trucks!
 
I'm hanging on to my NV5600 and related parts just in case....

That would be a good idea, getting hard to find good units to even rebuild. SuperStick has a waiting list for cores that just keeps getting longer.

From what we see on the 68's a good upgrade is one of the HD aluminum pans. You get all you need for drain plug and ports plus the extra stability for the trans flex. The PPE pan is 3 quarts and a larger spin on filter that should help with the solids filtering. Without upgrading VB and hard parts that is about the best thing that can be done to a 68.
 
That would be a good idea, getting hard to find good units to even rebuild. SuperStick has a waiting list for cores that just keeps getting longer.

From what we see on the 68's a good upgrade is one of the HD aluminum pans. You get all you need for drain plug and ports plus the extra stability for the trans flex. The PPE pan is 3 quarts and a larger spin on filter that should help with the solids filtering. Without upgrading VB and hard parts that is about the best thing that can be done to a 68.

I've never owned an auto before this. It seems like the shifts are a little vague at times. We live on a one-lane road that winds up a steep hill to our gate. As I start to head up it downshifts, but sometimes dropping to first feels like a delayed (slipping?) transition. It sort of jerks on upshifts other times. (not necessarily hard acceleration) It always works, but I don't know what's really normal. Maybe it's just how they are?
 
I completed the project yesterday. I did use the method of disconnecting the return line and running the truck. It worked well. I’ve never done it that way before because of the thought of running the pump dry. I’m a heavy equipment diesel mechanic and running any pump dry just doesn’t sit right. Anyway I did find that the previous owner had it serviced in 2021 according to the date on the spin on filter. Speaking of the spin on filter NAPA does not carry that filter. There’s no cross for it. They have the pump filter and gasket but no spin on. Had to get a CarQuest spin on Doing it as I did I used 11 quarts of automatic transmission fluid to refill. No I did not install a drain plug or a port for an additional trans temp gauge. I’m perfectly fine with the trans temp that is displayed on my dashboard even with it just being a tradesman truck.


Just an FYI for the future. My local Napa has the spin on filter #ATP18593, crosses to Mopar #5179267AD/Carquest #96057.

Is your truck 4x2 or 4x4? With just a simple drain, my '21 4x4 needed 10 quarts.
 
From what we see on the 68's a good upgrade is one of the HD aluminum pans. You get all you need for drain plug and ports plus the extra stability for the trans flex. The PPE pan is 3 quarts and a larger spin on filter that should help with the solids filtering. Without upgrading VB and hard parts that is about the best thing that can be done to a 68.

Humm interesting. I looked up the PPE pan and filter, might have to go that route on my next service. Not sure about the bypass valve. My modern auto experience is limited, but mine seems kinda clunky. Smooth on the upshifts and downshifts under power, but hard on the decelerating/coasting downshifts. Like the converter doesn't unlock for a second. Seems worse If the cruise button is used for reducing speed.
 
I've never owned an auto before this. It seems like the shifts are a little vague at times. We live on a one-lane road that winds up a steep hill to our gate. As I start to head up it downshifts, but sometimes dropping to first feels like a delayed (slipping?) transition. It sort of jerks on upshifts other times. (not necessarily hard acceleration) It always works, but I don't know what's really normal. Maybe it's just how they are?

The 68's have never been known for fast shifting, up or down. Rolling back into the throttle after making a slow turn and it needs to figure out what gear it needs and that just takes time unless you are manually shifting it. Try manually shifting it where you think it should shift up and down and see if application is positive, that is about the best test you can do. They are adaptive shifting and the way the stock power and trans programming is it needs to be driven hard to get the most positive shifts possible. Every truck is a little different across years, every truck configuration is a little different. Mine is a 2010 SRW MC 4x4 3.73, it feels different than 2014 SB SRW crew cab with 3.42's, which feels way different than the 2015 5500 2x4. I am still running stock power and programming with just the VB updated and it works better the harder it is driven. That will change once the TM gets reduced and the fuel curve optimized. Right now, drive it hard and it shifts better I think. I run TH and EB on all the time also.
 
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