OK, here's the whole deal.
1. Must change adapter plate, 94 or later because lockup converter is longer, flexplates appear identical.
2. Shorten driveshaft , I did 1.25"
3. Change starter, it's clocked differently, will not interchange.
4. Redrill frame to move transmission crossmember back 1.3". Cab must be lifted an inch or so at front to remove and
replace top bolts for crossmember. In my case cab mounts had sagged, have to be replaced or shimmed up to that
bellhousing will clear firewall/floor flange on cab.
5. Notch firewall/floor flange to clear dipstick tube.
6. Notch frame to clear starter. Two metal fuel lines are in the way, cut those back behind starter area, replace with
longer 5/16 supply and 1/4 return lines to engine replacing the shorter original rubber lines.
7. Relocate shift crossover shaft. I was able to move front hole in bracket to original rear hole, rotate bracket and only
have to drill one new hole.
8. Fill with 7176, mine took 18 quarts.
9. Original kickdown cable works, haven't even had to readjust mine yet just to get it running and shifting
although I will check that, did not change kickdown arm on transmission
10. I'm using a push on/push off switch on end of shift lever for OD (already had this for previous transmission),
floor mounted dimmer switch for lockup
Tools: 4-1/2" angle grinder
3/8" angle drill
air die grinder with 1/2" carbide burr
torque wrenches (I torque EVERYTHING, don't want anything coming loose later).
close quarter tubing cutter for fuel lines
sissor jack to raise cab
transmission jack (yes, it's heavy)
9000lb two post lift (the truck is heavy too and you don't even want to THINK about doing this swap with
floor jacks and jack stands.
All manner of inch and metric wrenches, sockets, extensions, u-joints
1/2" air impact wrench for taking stuff apart
Shop manuals for torque specs
Allow plenty of time. This falls into the "Don't try this at home" category unless you have all of the tools above and a heated shop if it's winter.
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
