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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Transmission to Extension housing bolts?

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The other day my truck started banging in all gears, I thought it might be the Transfer case, I took it off today and everything looks and feels good. Next step is taking the extension housing off to check 5th gear. The only problem is the eight bolts holding the housing to the transmission. I tired a couple with a 12-point 10mm, and it rounds them off at about what feels like 100 ft/lbs... . I mean I am really torquen on them with a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar. The socket fits tight but not tight enough. Does anyone know what the correct socket size for these bolts is? I have tried everything. Also, as anyone ever heard of fifth gear falling partially off and then banging around? Thanks in advance, any help or incite would be greatly appreciated.



Casey
 
You probably have teeth missing from fifth gear. Thats what mine did, but it was only noisy in fifth.

As for the bolts I had to weld a old socket to the head of one bolt to get it out. There may be a risk to the electronics in the vehicle but I had no trouble. If you do this be sure to put the ground clamp to the transmission. This keeps the path short and no current flows through the bearings or anything else.

Working on a NV 4500 gets expensive really fast. I had $1200. US in mine for parts and shipping

Mark

ps. replace those 12 points with allen head cap screws
 
i guess i shouldnt speak when i dont know what im talking about. ive never run into 12 point bolts on transmissions yet. but then again i have never had a manual in my shop. mark
 
Ditto on replacing those twelve points, once you've gotten them out.

You might have more luck with an impact socket and gun. An extension helps on a few of them.

Whoever torqued them down didn't do you any favors. Stock torque spec. is 30-50 ft. lbs.
 
I got the housing off today. I used a 12 point 10mm impact socket on all but three. I had to weld 3/4 inch nuts on the others to get them off, oh what fun. I found the extension housing full of teeth. Fifth gear on the main shaft is almost completly gone while number five on the counter still has a little left. I guess I have enough power :) :) . Anyways what is the next step? Can I replace the two gears with the transmission still in the truck? Does anyone know where I can borrow tools from, mainly the spline socket, fifth nut wrench, and gear puller? Thanks guys for the help.
 
Your truck runs good! :D



You won't need the spline socket if you shift the transmission into two gears at the same time.

You can replace both gears without dropping the transmission. You'll have to remove the two roll pins in the fork to get the countershaft fifth gear off. (along with the circlip on the countershaft)

The only problem is contamination. It would be worth dropping the trans and doing a thorough cleaning and inspection. Hardened pieces of gear teeth can do all kinds of nasty.

Dan at Quad 4x4 sells the tools and the parts you'll need.
 
Dtroy is on target for the procedure. One thing you really have to check is the main shaft itself. On my trans the splines in the gear had eaten into the unsplined portion of the shaft (original design not the update). This would let the gear run off center and fail again. Best of luck

Mark
 
Man, that's not a good sight! What would cause all that damage? Wouldn't the gear fall off the shaft before teeth start breaking with big power being thrown to it?
 
The factory puts blue loctite on all those bolts. A little heat witht the torch (couple hundred degrees) and they'll come right out. Of course..... I'm a little late with that info :rolleyes:



You can swap both those gears with the trans in the truck but I suggest you drop it and tear it down so you can be sure there are no metal chunks left in the case to cause you problems. You'll probably find axial slop in the shafts as well, if so it should be at least shimmed, maybe re-bearinged.



-Scott
 
Anyone know the correct way to remove the main shaft from the case? I had to remove the rear bearing to gain enough wiggle room past the cluster gear and it was a pain to remove.

Also if you shim out the end play, watch that you don't push the gear set to far forward. It needs to stay centered under the shifter/cover or the synchronizers may drag,1st gear in my case.
 
Remove the PTO covers to clean the bottom of the main case. You can put the trans in gear and an engine barring tool in the block plate to prevent the trans from turning while removing the nut. The dealer should have the tool, or call 800-std-tran for the parts and a source for the tool (Miller makes it for Mopar so you can get it there too). You can replace both 5th gears without dropping the trans, but if your mainshaft is beat up under the splines on the gear, you should completely disassemble to replace it, or compare the price of fixing it with a rebuilt unit from std trans--theirs comes with the good mainshaft etc. already installed.
 
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