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Trany fluid change...

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transmission leak

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Bluebird

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The (S-dealer told me the only trans fluid I should use is Mopar at $15. 00 a quart, or I will ruin the trans. Is this true? This is the first time I will be change my trans fluid, I was planning to use Valvoling Mercon-III. My transmission operates well at this time. Any input is helpful. Patrick. ;)
 
That is why they are the *******. Read your op manual. Says to use the 7176 I think is the Mopar no, also known as ATF+3 [Quaker State part no. 406748] OR,,,,,use dexron/mercon if the former is not available. I was thinking it's dexronII but, I'm sure all the dexron oils supersede one another, ie dexronIII or dexronIIE.



If you don't have the op manual, I can tell you how to obtain said publication.



Greenleaf
 
transmission fluid change...

Thanks for the prompt reply, I do have the manuals, I'll check it out... :D Patrick.
 
Hmmm..... lets see 11 quarts at $15 each comes to $165 :eek:



Do they let you sniff the bottle cap and serve you cheese too?



Sheesh. I've been using the Valvoiln ATF+3 (mopar 7176 approved equivalent ;) )
 
Bluebird, that is why they have that nickname! Time for you to find a good transmission shop and get to know them. Heck, I just changed to Amsoil and it cost a lot less than that. The shop I go to even took extra time to drain the converter so there wouldn't be any old fluid left in the system. They had to drill a drain hole in the converter and then weld it back up.



Ask around, I'm sure there has to be at least one decent shop in your area.
 
Wow, paccool. I had never thought of draining the converter using a "drill & weld" method. Pretty interesting. Just curious how big of a drill bit they used?



That's one of the (very few) advantages my previous 95 F150 had over my 1st Gen Dodge; a handy drain plug on the converter. Now I have to use the "disconnect the line at the transmission cooler and drain until it flows bright red" method of converter fluid replacement. It works, but not like a drain plug.
 
The dexron true type II is a more "aggressive" oil. It has less friction modifiers in it and results in a more "firm" or grabby shift.

Pretty much any quality Type III atf is fine. Type IV has more modifirers in it and can contribute to some slippage of disks/clutchpacs.

It does deal with heat better though... it's a tough balance to be sure.



I've been running Dexron II in my DTT system since installation and it works fine...



Bob.
 
Once you step back and look at it, it's really a great deal at $165. 00 I mean think about it,,,all the free coffee you can drink, unlimited soap operas ,AND,,,,,,,, you don't even get your hands dirty :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Oh,and you won't have the EPA visiting you door step because your neighbor saw you pouring used oil down the ground hog hole in the back yard:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
transmission valve body...

Any thoughts regarding taking off the valve body to let more fluid drain? I think I read something like that in this forum. I would be concerned with the correct torque specs when I reattach. Anyone done this before. I like to do as much as possible under my shadetree. Thanks again for the great advice and humor:D

Patrick.



PS-A little off track, does anyone cruise at 75-80mph? Does this hurt or help the truck?:confused:
 
RE: the valve body loosening method... .



I would not want to be drilling holes in the TC to let oil out... . You can loosen the 10 or 11 bolts that hold the VB in place about 3 turns, and that will come very close to syphoning all the oil out of the system, TC included.

Then torque them back in place.

I don't have the correct torque specs handy but I know that the pro's do that regularly.



bob.
 
transmission shop drilled a 1/8" hole and then let it drain for an hour or so. Bob, this is not something I would ever do cause I wouldn't trust the weld but apparently this is done regularly with no problems (at this shop at least). He said it was an old trick he used and since there was no drain plug he decided to do it here.



Stan
 
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