Here I am

Travel Trailer Suspension Adequacy (or Inadequacy)

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Breakway switch

black tank leak in travel trailer?

Just an update - have read and read and looked at a lot (and alot more) of threads (on here as well as the RV forums). Thanks to those who offered opinions.



I spoke with some guys at the local suspension shop - they have a good reputation. The plan is to replace the axle assemblies (will use Dexter axle assemblies). In looking at the costs involved, there was only a marginal additional cost to go to the completely new 6,000 lb axle assemblies rather than 4,400 lb or 5,200 lb. I obtain the 12 inch drum brake (up from 10 inch) as well as the lug pattern and sizing for the 16 inch wheel. I just did not want to maintain the 3,500 lb axles - just did not think maintaining everything right at 100% of capacity was the best, safest approach.



As far as tires go, I stopped at my local tire shop - have dealt with them for almost twenty years, fantastic service at a reasonable price. I was thinking the Firestone Transforce HT in the LT225/75/R16 size; a 10 ply tire with 2,700 lb load rating. The shop guy said an alternative was a Delta tire - a private brand tire - at same size, ply rating, and load rating, but much less expensive. Any opinions? The tire shop guy also said that he tries to encourage everyone to go LT tire rather than ST tire - he siad at one time ST tires were OK but in recent years have become poor quality (he also said in his opinion LT tires were always preferred over ST tires).



Moving on to hitch issues then. Trailer comes with a weight distributing hotch - I did not even look at the hitch when looking at the trailer - we learn as go, I guess. I guess I'll need to size that up and see what it is and what make most sense - adding anti-sway to it or just getting a whole new Equalizer hitch. In reading about the Equalizer hitch I kind of liked the simplicity of the unit.



Thanks,



Russell
 
Just an update - have read and read and looked at a lot (and alot more) of threads (on here as well as the RV forums). Thanks to those who offered opinions.



I spoke with some guys at the local suspension shop - they have a good reputation. The plan is to replace the axle assemblies (will use Dexter axle assemblies). In looking at the costs involved, there was only a marginal additional cost to go to the completely new 6,000 lb axle assemblies rather than 4,400 lb or 5,200 lb. I obtain the 12 inch drum brake (up from 10 inch) as well as the lug pattern and sizing for the 16 inch wheel. I just did not want to maintain the 3,500 lb axles - just did not think maintaining everything right at 100% of capacity was the best, safest approach.



As far as tires go, I stopped at my local tire shop - have dealt with them for almost twenty years, fantastic service at a reasonable price. I was thinking the Firestone Transforce HT in the LT225/75/R16 size; a 10 ply tire with 2,700 lb load rating. The shop guy said an alternative was a Delta tire - a private brand tire - at same size, ply rating, and load rating, but much less expensive. Any opinions? The tire shop guy also said that he tries to encourage everyone to go LT tire rather than ST tire - he siad at one time ST tires were OK but in recent years have become poor quality (he also said in his opinion LT tires were always preferred over ST tires).



Moving on to hitch issues then. Trailer comes with a weight distributing hotch - I did not even look at the hitch when looking at the trailer - we learn as go, I guess. I guess I'll need to size that up and see what it is and what make most sense - adding anti-sway to it or just getting a whole new Equalizer hitch. In reading about the Equalizer hitch I kind of liked the simplicity of the unit.



Thanks,



Russell



Tires for trailers have become a crapshoot. Since you are upgrading everything else why not spend the $$ and install Michelin XPS radials. They have the best reputation of any 16" tire.



As for W/D, Harvey is incorrect. The company I drive for requires W/D for most of the trailers we pull. I use one regularly. If you still have the factory receiver you need it anyway. They WILL fail if the tongue weight of the trailer exceeds 500 pounds by very much. I wish I had taken pictures of the torn metal mounting brackets on mine.



Skip the sway devices, they are money wasted. A properly loaded trailer hooked to an adequate tow vehicle will not sway. If you have sway, fix it. Sway control devices will not stop or prevent real sway, no matter what the pundits or the advertisements say.
 
Just a thought... my trailer is about 10K loaded, a little more or less depending on where we're going. I would suggest some type of WD hitch because you never know what you might end up putting in the bed. The WD lets me carry more in my bed while towing the trailer without going headlight high. I carry a heavy quad, motorcycle, fuel, extra water, wood, and whatever else fits while pulling my trailer. Again, just a thought.
 
Tires for trailers have become a crapshoot. Since you are upgrading everything else why not spend the $$ and install Michelin XPS radials. They have the best reputation of any 16" tire.

As for W/D, Harvey is incorrect. The company I drive for requires W/D for most of the trailers we pull. I use one regularly. If you still have the factory receiver you need it anyway. They WILL fail if the tongue weight of the trailer exceeds 500 pounds by very much. I wish I had taken pictures of the torn metal mounting brackets on mine.

Skip the sway devices, they are money wasted. A properly loaded trailer hooked to an adequate tow vehicle will not sway. If you have sway, fix it. Sway control devices will not stop or prevent real sway, no matter what the pundits or the advertisements say.

Incorrect about what? Horizon Transport, JET Transport, and SJB, the three transport companies I hauled for never required weight distributing hitches. They didn't want them used because the hitch mounts damage finish on the trailer A frame of new trailes.

Horizon and JET are two of the largest most professionally managed transport companies in the industry. They strictly followed and required strict compliance with DOT regulations by all their drivers.

DOT does not require wd hitches or at least didn't when I was transporting. I would be very surprised if it does now.

Gen II truck hitch receivers did fail under heavy trailer tonque weight. I replaced the receiver on my '01 as most everyone who towed heavy trailers did but my '06 was plenty strong enough for towing without a wd hitch on the trailer. It was fine after 230k miles with a little more than half of the miles towing.
 
Incorrect about what? Horizon Transport, JET Transport, and SJB, the three transport companies I hauled for never required weight distributing hitches. They didn't want them used because the hitch mounts damage finish on the trailer A frame of new trailes.



Never say never, LOL.



commercial transporters never use them.



I have never once had a customer complain about the slight scratches the brackets sometimes cause. I'm aware that DOT doesn't require them, but if the rear of the pickup is about to drag the ground I'll bet it would draw an inspectors attention. Personnally, I like having weight on my steering axle, and installing W/D bars only adds about 3 minutes to the hook-up procedure.
 
I know all the Airstreams that I looked at when I bought mine had witness marks from the spring bar mounts
The sales mgr I was dealing with said it was required by airstream
 
Never say never, LOL.



I have never once had a customer complain about the slight scratches the brackets sometimes cause. I'm aware that DOT doesn't require them, but if the rear of the pickup is about to drag the ground I'll bet it would draw an inspectors attention. Personnally, I like having weight on my steering axle, and installing W/D bars only adds about 3 minutes to the hook-up procedure.

Gary,

Your comments read like a lot of internet double speak which condenses down to "I have a different preference than Harvey does. "

No Dodge Ram other than perhaps a 1500, certainly not a dually and very unlikely a 2500 is going to sag and drag the rear bumper with the up to 1000 lb. tongue weight of a typical tongue pull travel trailer. I think you are exaggerating a bit there.
 
Just for argument sake what would a dot guy say if he drives by you and sees a hitch flexing like crazy because of a broken weld and no spring bars running more tw than the hitch decal allows??
 
Gary,



No Dodge Ram other than perhaps a 1500, certainly not a dually and very unlikely a 2500 is going to sag and drag the rear bumper with the up to 1000 lb. tongue weight of a typical tongue pull travel trailer. I think you are exaggerating a bit there.



Of course "drag the ground" is an exaggeration! But there is a definite drop in the rear of the truck when a heavy hitch is connected with no W/D, and you can't argue that there is a negative transfer of weight from the steer axle. The result is more often than not a pickup with the nose pointing up, not a level vehicle or slightly higher in the rear. That makes headlight aiming a distraction to other drivers and decreases the illumination for the driver.
 
Just for argument sake what would a dot guy say if he drives by you and sees a hitch flexing like crazy because of a broken weld and no spring bars running more tw than the hitch decal allows??





He would probably stop you and tell you to park the trailer and get the hitch fixed, same as if it were broken with a W/D hitch. The decal? Thats just like a yellow and black speed caution sign... A recommendation... not like a law, as in a white and black speed limit sign:)



Nick
 
I got turned on to the wd hitch by a friend several years ago by hauling a load with his set up. I went out and bought one immediately after and have never looked back. Even lightish loads in the 6k lb and up range benefit by using a wd hitch. There are only pros and no cons to running one so I would ask why not?
 
There is at least one con. If it isn't adjusted correctly it can cause a harsh ride. In addition, if it is too tight it can decrease traction by taking weight off the rear tires, but a person has to really work to get that to happen.
 
There is at least one con. If it isn't adjusted correctly it can cause a harsh ride. In addition, if it is too tight it can decrease traction by taking weight off the rear tires, but a person has to really work to get that to happen.



OK, I suppose I should have added "properly adjusted". Not too big a deal, just gotta know your equipment, what your hauling and how how to compensate for different loads. And there is a point where with a light enough load a wd hitch is a moot point. Common sense, but I guess I gotta throw it in there ;)
 
Just for argument sake what would a dot guy say if he drives by you and sees a hitch flexing like crazy because of a broken weld and no spring bars running more tw than the hitch decal allows??

Bob,

That concern is valid on Gen II trucks. Mine bent and sagged on an '01 towing Airstreams and one Avion using a Reese wd hitch and was replaced with a tough aftermarket receiver before I began transporting for hire. I towed conventional travel trailers for 175,000 miles for Horizon transport without a wd hitch using the aftermarket receiver and it never sagged. Likewise, I towed similar miles with an '06 with OEM receiver and no wd hitch. I don't think a sagging cracked receiver is a genuine concern on Gen IIIs.
 
Of course "drag the ground" is an exaggeration! But there is a definite drop in the rear of the truck when a heavy hitch is connected with no W/D, and you can't argue that there is a negative transfer of weight from the steer axle. The result is more often than not a pickup with the nose pointing up, not a level vehicle or slightly higher in the rear. That makes headlight aiming a distraction to other drivers and decreases the illumination for the driver.

Gary,

If your argument were valid how would anyone haul a relatively light 1,000 lb. load or, gasp, 2,000 lb. load in the bed of a Ram 2500 or 3500 without experiencing all those extreme results you described without an additional support device to hold up the sagging rear end, prevent severe weight transfer, and blinding oncoming drivers?

Have you forgotten - the weight balance of a typical unloaded Ram 2500 or Ram 3500 is approximately 65% on the front suspension and 35% on the rear? A typical truck with maximum allowed cargo on the bed would be closer to a 50% to 50% weight balance when loaded.
 
You should not choose to run (or not run) a wd hitch simply because your hitch is rated for the load your carrying :rolleyes:
 
Gary,



If your argument were valid how would anyone haul a relatively light 1,000 lb. load or, gasp, 2,000 lb. load in the bed of a Ram 2500 or 3500 without experiencing all those extreme results you described without an additional support device to hold up the sagging rear end, prevent severe weight transfer, and blinding oncoming drivers?



Have you forgotten - the weight balance of a typical unloaded Ram 2500 or Ram 3500 is approximately 65% on the front suspension and 35% on the rear? A typical truck with maximum allowed cargo on the bed would be closer to a 50% to 50% weight balance when loaded.



Good grief Harvey. Loading the bed is an apples and oranges comparison to hanging 1000 pounds off the bumper. If you don't want to use W/D then don't.
 
Good grief Harvey. Loading the bed is an apples and oranges comparison to hanging 1000 pounds off the bumper. If you don't want to use W/D then don't.

Gary,

I don't as I said in my original statement. Perhaps you could have simply stated you prefer using a wd hitch instead of pronouncing my original statement "incorrect?"
 
Good grief Harvey. Loading the bed is an apples and oranges comparison to hanging 1000 pounds off the bumper. If you don't want to use W/D then don't.



Which... . to me is rather strange, because whenever a member requests an opinion on which setup to purchase, Harvey always states that the Reese Dual-Cam is the best and that he has logged thousands of miles behind 2 different trucks for a total of a 1/2million and never experienced a failure blah blah blah. It was just last week he boasted about never requiring a "special" fuel filter in his 2nd or 3rd Gen and went on to say that he never had to replace an injector in his 06 truck. I know for a fact that he stated more than once that he had to replace an injector in that 06' truck.



Good guy and he is a plethora of information, but sometimes you have to give him room to rant... ... sort of like listening to your Grandfathers fishing story's:-laf:-laf You're the man HB but when you place yourself in the spotlight as often as you do, members like myself and others remember everything you've posted in the past.



Alan
 
Back
Top