Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) trouble with Autometers

[sstockton]

Has anyone else had trouble with their autometer gauges. I got mine, and they worked fine for about a week. Now I'm having tons of trouble. The Needle on the pyro would just start bouncing back and forth and tag out at past 1600, which the truck won't hit. And the line for the fuel pressure gauge keep leaking. I've tightened them down as far as I can, and I still can't tighten it any further, but about 40 miles ago, one of the fittings started leaking, and dumped fuel on to my floor mats.

Has anyone else had any problems?

Who offers a Fuel Pressure gauge that doesn't require that I run fuel inside my cab? The problem is I like the look of the Autometer, but they seem to be junk. So I guess what I'm asking, is who should I switch to.

Thanks,

Sean

 

[Mundgyver]

Check all electrical connections, source and grounds on both ends of the wiring. For the leaking fuel, what kind of line plastic or metal Compression fitting generally fail due to being over tightened. With plastic is is very easy to do. Metal, copper is the most common can be pushed out of alignment if tighten too much, too quick. The trick is to give just enough torque to the fitting to snug but not deform. I do allot of repair work to industrial gas line fitting and vacuum fitting in the Hi-Tech industry and these are a couple of the common problems I see. Hope this helps.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

for a mechanical gauge, you should have an isolator... you should never run fuel into the cab!!!

 

[sstockton]

Yeah I really didn't want to, but what kind of isolaters are out there that still allow me to run that gauge. It seems like the best way to go would be an electrical sending unit.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

autometer sells electrical fuel pressure gauges... they also sell isolator kits to run a mechanical gauge inside the passenger compartment... they also say DO NOT run fuel into the passenger compartment!