Troubleshooting RV waterheater?

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Muffler/Tail Pipe and EGT

Our water heater in our camper won't light off and I'm wondering how I determine if it is the ignitor control box or the ignitor? I don't wanna buy parts that I don't need and was hoping there is some easy way of doing it. Perhaps I can learn from your experiences.



Thanks in advance,

Pat
 
First of all, it would help if you could give a little more description of what the symptoms are and what you have tried. Usually, you can hear/see the igniter to determine if that is working or not. Is propane making it to the igniter? What I had happen to mine once was that some little bug built a nest in the igniter tube. This nest blocked the gas from ever reaching the igniter. Make sure that something as simple as this isn't your problem to begin with.
 
Yup, your right, so here's some more info. The ignitors are popping so I guess I should see if a bug built a home in my propane tube also. I notice that the propane goes through an electric valve of some sort, which may also be the culprit. I'll pull the tube off and see if it's clogged up...



Thanks
 
Pat-

I have actually heard of this 'bug in tube' problem before and hopefully it is your problem as the fix is easy. :D On my water heater, it is the bent tube leading to the igniter and the nest wasn't visible until the tube was removed.



You should also be able to see the sparks from the igniter and even smell a little propane if the gas is flowing. Do not turn the heater on/off several times consecutively as I got a pretty good backflash from the gas build up. :eek:



Next on the list might be to check the thermalcouple but try the basics first. Good luck,



David
 
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Thanks fellas. I haven't noticed a strong propane smell, which I would have expected from the rascal not lighting. I'll try the tube first then if I still get nothing, I'll jumper 12 volts to the propane valve and see if it's opening or not. I'll let ya know what happens, and if you hear of a large RV explosion in South Texas, that would probably be me:eek:



Thanks...
 
I agree with the previous suggestions.



Here is another one to add to the mix. If your trailer is several years old, particularly in the South Texas mix of humidity and salt air, the contacts on the water heater control module, ignitor, temperature and pressure module, etc. frequently become corroded and create mysterious problems. I've experienced water heater problems on two separate trailers that were caused by dirty contacts. Try removing each contact and burnishing with a pencil eraser, gently bend the contacts with needle nose pliers to tighten, and reinstall.



Harvey
 
Dittos what Harvey suggested.



Also make sure the ground screw is clean where it's grounded to the metal baffle. I had a water heater that failed to light because of a corroded ground connection. A small dab of dielectric grease will prevent the corrosion from re-occurring.



Bill
 
water heater?

Its a reignitor not a ignitor you have to hold down the red button as the reigniter lights the pilot . scrape the spot where the spark jumps on the tube also check the gap and bend if needed . 030 should be fine. hold the red button for a few min to heat the thermo coupler . Then turn to on position Keep head back to prevent broken neck from avoiding flash back in burner tube . Some times water will be in low part of tube do to draining of heater or pop off valve . Keep looking and you will get it working . Ron Bissett in Metro Louisville KY
 
The spark is good and strong, I can see it and hear it. I think the problem is boiling down to no propane reaching the ignitor. Either I have the dreaded bug nest in the tube syndrome or I have a faulty water heater propane control valve.

If nothing else, I've learned that campers are the land based equivalent of a boat. You toss money/work into them on a regular basis. I guess the payoff is the ability to get away for a weekend, which is worth it. So tomorrow I will re-seal the roof, replace the water pump for the coach as it took 4 minutes to fill up a gallon water jug. Anybody know how to work on a toilet? My flapper slider seems to not close all the way now, don't know what could damage that:D . I have some seems that need resealing on the sides, clean the battery terminals, give the generator a tune up. All this work makes me want a vacation. Yeah, we'll take the motorhome and, uhhh, wait a minute! This is how this whole thing started in the first place. Anybody wanna buy a motorhome?;) Kidding... Thanks for all the tips and past experiences. I'll clean the ground wire as well as the contacts. As far as the explosion goes, mine blew up at 5:40 pm central standard time...
 
Ron-

I was under the assumption that Pat had electronic ignition? :confused:



Pat-

I know the feeling! However, this is the best thing that can happen to you. You get to work on your camper with the shelter of your home. Next time this happens out in a campground somewhere, you will know exactly what will be needed.



I have gradually updated a goody (spares) box under my dinette seat. It contains spare lightbulbs, thermocouples, thermal fuses, etc. etc. etc. I even have a spare shot of JD for when it is a real emergency! :D



Also, I tend to go out and work all my appliances on a monthly basis so I don't have the "shock" syndrome right before the trip.
 
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you mean these things are not turn key... just fire 'em up and roll... . maintenance... wazzzz tha :rolleyes:



I'm looking for a real "good" used one to start my "learning experience" out with :D



I figured a top of the line, top five or six Brands in the 36' range 5 years or less would be a good starter point LOL
 
flapper slider

About twice/year I have to clean the flapper slider and lubricate it with a heavy silicone grease. I was able to get a laboratory silicone stop cock grease, but when that one runs out, I don't know what I will use. Then use silicone spray oil in the compartment where the flush handle is. This has taken care of the slider problems and keeps the water from running on after a flush. This has worked for me.
 
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