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Truck barely runs after severe ovefilling with new engine oil.

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I accidentally overfilled my 2001 Dodge Ram 3500 Cummins after an interruption. Not clear if I ended up putting two 3 or 4 jugs of oil in, or the equivalent of 15-20 quarts, but oil traveled full circle through the intercooler and back into the intake.

I was initially unaware of how much extra oil was in there and could not restart the truck when I tried.

I then figured out what happened and drained the excess oil, but still no start even with excessive cranking.

I had had prior codes relating to the injection pump timing and also a limp accelerator pedal after cold starts for about a mile or two of driving. The accelerator pedal also "went to sleep" at highway speeds requiring a pause of 4-5 seconds before pushing the accelerator again to be able to increase speed, or pushing the pedal down until a downshift was forced and then only being able to accelerate again.

Therefore I decided to replace the injection pump and the throttle position sensor. I calibrated the TPS as well. Then I installed a new lift pump as well.

I bled the injectors by backing off the hex nuts at the head and making sure diesel was available there, but still had difficulty starting. I was able to start it again, but it was putting out massive amounts of black smoke out and ran very poorly for 15 minutes, until it progressively got to a normal smooth idle. When it first started and for 5-10 minutes after that there was a loud clanking in the front of the engine, almost like a rod knock sounds on a gasoline engine. Even at smooth idle the smoking was still there and it took 25-30 minutes for the smoke to turn a little more toward a gray-white.

I subsequently drained the intercooler as much as possible by disconnecting the lower hose on the driver's side (which feeds into the metal duct and then into air horn on the intake).

I also used a rag inside the intake when I had the air horn off of it to soak some of the oil out of there.

Again it took a while to get it started and the poor running, clanking and heavy smoking was repeated, though it gradually smoothed out.

Firs time I ran it there was no response to depressing the accelerator pedal, but the second time there was a minute response, though the idle did not raise much at all.

What should be my next order of things to try? What sensors or engine controls could have been affected?

Thanks to all that can offer some advice.
 
The seals are blown out on the turbo, you will need to rebuild it or replace it. That is the only way for oil to get in your intercooler. You need to pull it off and wash it out really good with gas or diesel, then blow it clean with compressed air. The IAT and MAP sensors are covered in oil, they will need to be cleaned with brake clean.

The engine knock is from trying to burn engine oil. Do not run it anymore without fixing it. You can have an engine run away with all the oil in the intercooler, plus the turbo is still adding more to it. If the intake manifold is full of oil, pull the cover off and mop it all up real good.

I repeat...do not run it anymore.
 
The overfill covered the turbo oil drain. This pushes oil past the turbo seals.

Google “diesel engine runaway “ and understated how lucky you are it hasn’t happened to you yet: but you are damn close to it running away on its own oil.

X2 DO NOT RUN IT!
 
The seals are blown out on the turbo, you will need to rebuild it or replace it. That is the only way for oil to get in your intercooler. You need to pull it off and wash it out really good with gas or diesel, then blow it clean with compressed air. The IAT and MAP sensors are covered in oil, they will need to be cleaned with brake clean.

The engine knock is from trying to burn engine oil. Do not run it anymore without fixing it. You can have an engine run away with all the oil in the intercooler, plus the turbo is still adding more to it. If the intake manifold is full of oil, pull the cover off and mop it all up real good.

I repeat...do not run it anymore.


Thank you very much for your reply. I will get the turbo replaced/rebuilt and clean the IAT and MAP sensors.
With all the soot in the oil now, the new oil is black, so I suppose the oil and filter will have to be done again too...
 
The overfill covered the turbo oil drain. This pushes oil past the turbo seals.

Google “diesel engine runaway “ and understated how lucky you are it hasn’t happened to you yet: but you are damn close to it running away on its own oil.

X2 DO NOT RUN IT!


Thank you for the warning. As suggested, I will have to address the turbo rebuild/replacement, cleaning of the IAT and MAP sensors first and also change the oil and filter again since they oil though new is now really black.

Again, thank you!
 
I don’t know that a turbo rebuild or replacement is necessary. I’d suggest taking the CAC to a radiator shop and have them clean it. Clean out all the CAC pipes, and while you have them out, check the turbo out good and run it with the tubes off and see if you still have oil coming out of it. Do you also have oil in the exhaust?
 
I don’t know that a turbo rebuild or replacement is necessary. I’d suggest taking the CAC to a radiator shop and have them clean it. Clean out all the CAC pipes, and while you have them out, check the turbo out good and run it with the tubes off and see if you still have oil coming out of it. Do you also have oil in the exhaust?
I believe there must be oil in the exhaust as it went through the intake and there was plenty of soot out of the back pipe with the heavy smoke.
 
You can take the downpipe loose from the turbo and pull it back far enough to check it without removing it. If there's oil there, depending on how much got in there, you may need to at least check the muffler and maybe replace it.
 
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You can take the downpipe loose from the turbo and pull it back far enough to check it without removing it. If there's oil there, depending on how much got in there, you may need to at least check the muffler and maybe replace it.
Since I was chasing what I thought was a fuel/air/sensor problem, I have replaced the TPS, injection pump and lift pump and I have the fuel tank down and out and cleaned. I will first put the whole fuels system back together before I get to other items so i don't open too many fronts.

Next I will address the the turbo side:

1. Disconnect the pipe to and from the intercooler or CAC. Clean these pipes.

2. Remove the intake horn and clean the intake of as much oil as possible.

3. Remove the intercooler, and clean it and re-install it.

4. Run the engine again, with the pipe going from the turbo to the CAC disconnected at the turbo and see if there is oil still sent through the turbo.

5. If there is, rebuild the turbo.

6. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the turbo (done if rebuilding the turbo anyway) and check for oil in the exhaust. If there is a lot clean the catalytic and muffler.

Now, regarding the turbo, can I redo it myself (I have a fair bit of tooling and automotive knowledge, but not in diesel and turbos)?

Can I use a kit like the ones at Rock Auto to rebuild:

https://www.rockauto.com/info/860/H1350317N-bac__ra_p.jpg

Or am I better with a turbo cartridge replacement or whole turbo replacement?

If I am in this deep, how about an upgraded turbo billet turbine (just the "impeller" part):

https://www.rockauto.com/info/860/90183_H1350514N_side__ra_p.jpg

Should I just upgrade the turbo instead?

What is the limit on questions you can ask overall and at one time?
 
Since I was chasing what I thought was a fuel/air/sensor problem, I have replaced the TPS, injection pump and lift pump and I have the fuel tank down and out and cleaned. I will first put the whole fuels system back together before I get to other items so i don't open too many fronts.

Next I will address the the turbo side:

1. Disconnect the pipe to and from the intercooler or CAC. Clean these pipes.

2. Remove the intake horn and clean the intake of as much oil as possible.

3. Remove the intercooler, and clean it and re-install it.

4. Run the engine again, with the pipe going from the turbo to the CAC disconnected at the turbo and see if there is oil still sent through the turbo.

5. If there is, rebuild the turbo.

6. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the turbo (done if rebuilding the turbo anyway) and check for oil in the exhaust. If there is a lot clean the catalytic and muffler.

Now, regarding the turbo, can I redo it myself (I have a fair bit of tooling and automotive knowledge, but not in diesel and turbos)?

Can I use a kit like the ones at Rock Auto to rebuild:

https://www.rockauto.com/info/860/H1350317N-bac__ra_p.jpg

Or am I better with a turbo cartridge replacement or whole turbo replacement?

If I am in this deep, how about an upgraded turbo billet turbine (just the "impeller" part):

https://www.rockauto.com/info/860/90183_H1350514N_side__ra_p.jpg

Should I just upgrade the turbo instead?

What is the limit on questions you can ask overall and at one time?
I guess I forgot about the cleaning of the sensors in that list...
 
What is the limit on questions you can ask overall and at one time?


:D no limit. Sounds like you are doing fine. The turbo is not hard to rebuild, I did use genuine Holset parts, it may not matter. Do you have the HY35W or HX35W? Is your engine stock?

0729200545.jpg
 
"6. Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the turbo (done if rebuilding the turbo anyway) and check for oil in the exhaust. If there is a lot clean the catalytic and muffler."

You do not have a CAT, it's a resonator.

If you have stock exhaust I would rip it out anyway and buy a MBRP aluminized 4" turbo back straight pipe exhaust and then install the NAPA/Donaldson Part #: EXH 22936 muffler for around $130 or less.
 
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