2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Truck Camper weight

[Turbo Terry]

1999 150 k here. Info in new truck said 1750 lbs for camper. I have a 2500 lbs plus? Slide in for 15 years no issues. Mobil Syn 75 140 in the differentials mag hitec covers firestone airbags Rancho 9000 shocks BD exhaust brake. 10 ply tires to 80 lbs. 100 lbs in air bags. Use your head when real windy tie up and rest. On rough roads slow down. Don't drive to fast. Speeding My BD exhaust brake has paid for itself. Emergency stoping is i guess my biggest fear. Truck and camper weigh a good 10 k. Drive safe

 

[02dodger]

I also have a camper, lighter weight wolf creek and I tow a 20 foot boat. First I added air bags, they do help. The biggest improvement I did was add the torklift stableloads, suspension stabilizer. Huge difference and probably don't even need the air bags. I have the ones that activate the lower overloads. They were easy to install on my 02. I also have the torklift frame mount tie downs. Both are great products.

 

[Regcabguy]

Add braking to the equation.
My '98.5 2500 auto had lousy stopping power.
Add an 1800# popup and 285's and it was scary.

 

[Mike Ellis]

The truck can easily handle the amount of weight quoted, but realistically you will be looking at much higher weight, probably in the range of 3500+ pounds when ready for a trip. Good tires and brakes are key, and an exhaust brake is very helpful.

I hauled my Bigfoot 2500 slide in camper all over America, many tens of thousands of miles with no problems. My truck was a dually though and the training wheels do give more stability and payload, but I would not be afraid to haul it with a 3/4 ton, I would just drive slower and approach curves a bit more cautiously.


Useful tips for enjoyable truck camping: travel with tanks mostly empty and fill up with water near destination - saves a lot of weight. Keep heavy stuff like drinks and canned goods as low as possible, in the basement if your camper has one. Putting heavy stuff in the cabinets raises center of gravity and a top-heavy rig will drive squirrelly. Put some of those heavy rubber horse trailer mats in the bed of your truck, it will help reduce the shifting around of the camper. Yes the camper can move around, particularly in strong crosswinds it can shift to the side and leave your tie downs loose. Good idea to check tie downs every time you stop.


On the camper, be very careful with the jacks. They are surprisingly stout in spite of the stick-thin appearance, when the camper is raised up for loading it can look alarmingly unstable but as long as you take your time and keep it level you will be fine. However the jack attachments are usually screwed into wood and I have seen truck campers with wood rot where the jack attachment screws were pulling out.


Really the most important thing is to drive a bit slower than normal. I found that my rig handled wonderfully at 65 on the interstate and at 55 on curvy mountain roads while getting very good mileage (often got 15+ mpg at those speeds). At higher speeds the handling becomes noticeably more "busy" and the driving is much less relaxed and enjoyable. 75 on the interstate is easily sustainable but 2nd Gen Dodge "steering wallow" will give you a heck of a workout. I learned very quickly that keeping the speed down translated into a MUCH more enjoyable ride. Took my rig up Pikes Peak a number of times, all over the Rockies and lots of passes and steep gravel roads, and the rig handled it better than any other RV combo I ever had.


Truck camping is awesome, have fun and be safe --- and watch out for low bridges and tree limbs :-laf

 

[Mike Ellis]

Almost forgot - if your camper uses "scissor steps", note that some of them with the sheet metal steps can be slippery as all get out when damp, the ones that have expanded metal grating steps are less slippery. If you have the other kind, there is gritty tape you can apply that can help prevent a fall. The reason to be cautious, is that depending on where you are parked and how far the scissors are extended, the steps can have a bit of a downward slant and when you step out of the camper on a dewy or icy morning you can easily slip and bust your arse. Been there, done that. After my first trip, I always carried one of those little folding plastic step stools so when needed I could put it under the end of the scissors to make the steps level. Presto - no more slip risk.

Also a set of those plastic leveling blocks (like big legos) and a couple of bubble levels stuck on the outside of the camper make it just ridiculously fast and easy to perfectly level your rig. Pull into campsite, eyeball the level, throw a couple of blocks under the appropriate tires and drive up on em, loosen tiedowns and lower jack legs to just touch the ground, and you are done - can do what you want in camper without truck bed and suspension squeaking and wallowing.

 

[GAmes]

Way off topic, but I don't know anyone with a slide in camper. I'm considering a 2nd AC for my 5th wheel and want it to be a low amperage model. If you have an AC, what is the make and model?

 

[Tuesdak]

What law are people concerned about breaking if they go over a pickups GVWR?

Arizona's "Stupid Law" for one. This be the law that allows your insurance company to deny injury claims for things like not wearing your seatbelt or driving across a flooded road and getting the bill for being rescued. Regardless if your vehicle is grossly overloaded via the same "Stupid Law" the insurance companies walk away leaving you on your own, regardless of fault, in an accident. You, not the commission driven RV dealer, are ultimately responsible for the vehicle setup. Doesn't matter what the truck can do or was modified to do: The factory sticker and ratings are the ultimate limit. If you are in doubt see your attorney. Mine cited a case of a GN trailer that overloaded the tow vehicle, of course there was a wreck, and the atty explained how expensive it got when the insurance company denied the claim and ultimately did not pay the claim due to overloading. Before overloading any rated number on your truck ask yourself "Is Bankruptcy Right For Me?"

Even DRW have their limits, but, the sticker gives you a LOT more cargo weight rating than a SRW pickup. As I already had a SRW pickup and a specific level of RV comfort in mind I went with a 5th wheel instead of a slide in camper. I simply could not find a hard side camper that would not go over the cargo capacity. Pop up campers are lighter.

I do give credit for the manufacturers that put the actual weight on the RV as equipped when it left the factory. That separate sticker is inside a cabinet and still has empty tanks, empty propane tanks, no batteries, no dust, and no air in the tires. A CAT scale at a truck stop is the ultimate answer that you are under any axle rating or have to move cargo around to get under a rating.

 

[GAmes]

Arizona's "Stupid Law" for one. This be the law that allows your insurance company to deny injury claims for things like not wearing your seatbelt or driving across a flooded road and getting the bill for being rescued. Regardless if your vehicle is grossly overloaded via the same "Stupid Law" the insurance companies walk away leaving you on your own, regardless of fault, in an accident.

If the insurance companies can deny coverage for lawful and unlawful acts your rates must be stupid low.