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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Truck Cranks but wont start

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Injector advice ?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Head Studs and gaskets

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Hey guys i have a 24v cummins that keep cranking but will not start. I had just replaced the inj pump and lift pump, and triple checked to make sure they key made it through the key way. The trucks sounds like it wants to start just that there is something keeping it from doing that. I've pulled fuses checked for codes Everything. and i am getting great fuel pressure, And experience insight?
 
Crack ejectors #1,#3,#5. Turn motor over untill you get fuel with no air. She will proably start as soon as 1&3 are clear. Do not spin starter over 30 to 45 sec. at a time then let cool for a min. It will take a few min. It will help to have 2 people, one to watch injectors and one to start.

Good Luck

Capt. Phil

P. S. If you need Ph. Help My #386-547-1179. Call anytime
 
Remote starter switch works best... ... ... ..... no need to coordinate with a second person that may not understand what you are telling them
 
I bump the starter to get the lift pump to run 10-15 times before I crank. Then as mentioned above crack 1,3 & 5 and tighten as you get fuel. It will fire you just have to get the air out of the system.
 
ok thanks guys because i have been cranking for two days on it trying to bleed the system as much as i can and it still isn't fireing. should i worry about the white smoke coming out of the exhaust and intake as i'm cranking on it? All i take it as the truck is burning some sort of fuel just not enough to get it to run.
 
ok guys well i just got done bleeding the fuel system and still no start, i am stumped! the factory lift pump has been removed since i installed the AirDog. The truck is throwing zero codes. I'm half temped to tow it to a shop if i can't get more answers soon. So it's getting fuel and plenty of it, Have any idea's to maybe grounds or what not i was looking around and they all see fine. any more diesel guru's insight?
 
i have checked those as well, they are all good! would cracking the outflow valve banjo bolt help at all? i know it already bleeds air out and how should the fuel look coming out of the cracked injectors? like a nice squirt right?
 
Fuel coming out the return side of the VP should be the same as bleeding the inlet side. Just flow.

The symptoms you are describing (presuming that you are not getting foamy fuel) sound like really bad timing. Either too advanced or retarded. Which on a new VP means wrong key or bad calibration.

Now it is possible to get the key misaligned and still in the slot (been there, done that) but you will see a gap on either side of the gear key slot.

I'd go back to the fuel supply and make sure you are not getting air mixed in with the fuel. Double check all the wiring that you disconnected. There are 2 connectors on the fire wall above the intake manifold that I disconnect when I do a VP change to make it easier to get to the lines at 5 & 6.
 
something else to look at. i remember reading this on here somewhere but there is some sort of check valve or spring in the return line that may be stuck open not letting hte lift pump build pressure. i will see what i can find and repost.



if anyone knows anything about this please share. i think i may need one my self as i can hear my fuel return from the fass system surging in the take as if the check valve is chattering sometimes.
 
Fuel return check valve/pressure relief valve is the banjo bolt on the VP return side. Should have gotten a new one with the new VP. Not saying that's not it, possible to get a bad one out of the box, but rare.
 
ok cool. i may go get a new one myself. i see about a 5 psi pressure swing when i am driving and when i listen in the filler neck of the tank i can here is changing not smooth like it use to be.
 
After reading all the suggestions and things you have done I am coming to the conclusion it is timing wrong key perhaps. It could be the pump is bad from whom ever you purchased it. This is a rare occurrence but not unheard of.
 
Thanks man, idk i got so fed up with it looking at the same stuff over and over again that i took it to the shop. Maybe a new fresh head will boast some answers. I'll report back with findings guys.
 
I took it to the local diesel shop right down the street from me, since i dont really trust the stealerships and stay away from them like the plague, but i will go if it is only something they can fix. Are you thinking it might be with the Pcm not keeping the correct timing?
 
it could be. the chrysler computer would tell them if it were the computer or the key when they try to start it. maybe the shop you took it to has the snap on modis. i think that will tell if its the key also...
 
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