Archived Truck died, restarts but then quits

[RChriste]

Truck was running great over the course of a 30 mile drive, even passed a few cars and it had plenty of power, then I slowed to turn into my driveway and it died in the road. It will crank and restart, but immediately die. I've got a half tank of fuel and the fuel filter only has about 4k miles on it so I'm assuming it's not an issue. My brake and anti-lock brake lights on the dash came on and went out a few times, I also had the hard anti-lock brake pedal once on the way home so I'm thinking these events are related. I didn't notice the check engine light being on at all. Anyone have any ideas? The truck is an 04. 5 with auto transmission, bone stock.

Thanks!

 

[goodguys75]

bad fuel???? change the fuel filter again... never know

 

[S.Morris]

Check that lift pump is working

 

[RChriste]

bad fuel???? change the fuel filter again... never know

Yeah, gonna try that in the morning. Btw, the truck has run a little rough on the first start of the day, a few times in the last week.

 

[WOT]

having a variety of things happening at once I'd be looking at the age of the batteries, battery connections, grounds, etc.

 

[RChriste]

The batteries are original but the engine cranks fast so that's kind of a seat of the pants load test, no? I went through all the grounds I could see and cleaned them up. I can't hear my lift pump run as I'm accustomed to so I'm inclined to think that it gave up the ghost, but would that cause the truck to stop running? I've read here that the cp3 or whatever the injector pump is on the 04. 5s and later can actually sustain running without the lift pump? I'm at a loss and I can't really afford to make sure that the dealership has a good Christmas... ... . oh, and I really need to get this thing running so I can go to work.

BTW, I think I've determined that the idiot lights for the brakes are only a coincidence. I found a broken wire in the right front wheel's speed sensor cable. I also determined that my truck has the fuel filter mounted lift pump, unless it's some sort of dummy body to interface with the filter housing, which makes no sense to me.

 

[WOT]

I don't recall when then moved the pump to the tank, but was thinking that was in '05. If you think its the pump open the drain valve, turn key to on and then briefly to start - just enough to bump the started. The pump should run for about 10 seconds and you should get fuel all over the driveway

 

[RChriste]

Thanks for the follow up WOT. Is it a fairly safe bet that the lift pump is the culprit if it doesn't puke fuel all over or are there other likely failure modes that you're aware of? I can go ahead and order the pump because it's probably overdue at 125k miles, just wondering if I should have it hauled to a dealer to be checked out? I couldn't get any error codes to flash so I'm thinking that having the dealer hook it up to his scanner would be moot, but I'm concerned with the way the truck just stopped running when popular opinion says that the injector pump can keep the engine running, once running. I looked over all the wires under the hood and I didn't see any besides the anti-lock sensor wire that was damaged.

 

[Bob4x4]

If you bypass the lift pump it will run without one but it will not pull through most failed pumps

 

[WOT]

If the pump is bad and the pump is located on the engine I'd think about going with the in-tank conversion.
There is a fuel pump relay that could be bad as well. You could jumper past it to see if you get it to run. I don't recall the relay # though. If you look at the diagram on it you can figure out which two leads to jumper together. I think there's a post on here about that as well. (https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?236870-99-24V-Changed-Fuel-Filter-No-Prime-No-Pressure&highlight=relay+jumper), pins 30 & 87

 

[AEdelheit]

I would not do an intank pump, I just got rid of mine, but if your is allready in the tank make sure the fuse coming off the drivers side battery is good.

 

[RChriste]

A sincere thanks to everyone who has replied. For the sake of expediency I'm going to stick with replacing my canister mounted lift pump, they're available online for about $165. Once I get it running again I'll start planning how to install a better long term solution, although I can't really complain about the one I'm replacing, 125K miles isn't horrible.

 

[BGlidewell]

I've had batteries that would crank but not keep the computer going... . more than once.

 

[RChriste]

Just want to thank everyone again for the suggestions and let you guys know that it was a failed lift pump. I bought an Airtex replacement pump from Autozone for $194. 99 and I'm back on the road. Having a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 2" long 5mm allen bit made it a pretty quick job.